Thanks Mari, for taking the time to respond.
Extruder temp 245, bed temp 90, I calibrated the extruder 2 days ago. I check bed level before every print, and print speed is 40 mm/sec.
I have the printer set for ABS, because on PLA the filament doesn't stick to the bed.
I think that covers you questions. 🙂
90 is much too hot for PLA. It gets soft at about 52C and you want the bed hotter than that but 90C will give you crappy results. Anyway this doesn't answer your question.
So this is a bit long (20 minutes) but it's full of really good info. I suspect your problem is "squish" but please watch the whole thing to be sure your prints never come loose again:
Oh and extruder at 245C - not sure about ender3 but if you have any teflon in the print head getting that hot then you are going to reduce the lifetime of that teflon drastically. 190C to 210C is usually best for PLA. I recommend never going over 230C with PLA.
... if printing for a long time on higher temps, the standard bowden tube will fail... Switch to Capricorn.
What does the manufacturer advise for printing temperature? I print PLA on 210 degrees, bed temperature 50 degrees (Lokbuild), for the Creality Magnetic flexible bed I set the bed temperature to 60 degrees. PLA should stick to that, if not clean the printbed with isopropynol alcohol 70% and check the first layer is squish is correct!
To Gr5: I'm in the USA, so all temps I give are Fahrenheit, so the temp isn't nearly as high as you thought.
Mari: Again, I'm printing ABS, and the suggested temps are extruder; 245 F , Bed; 90 F.
I'll take a look at the video and see if that helps.
Thanks again!
... doesn't matter what material you print, when settings are wrong, printbed not cleaned, the material will not stick to the printbed and the print will fail...
Still no answer about what the manufacturer advises for printing temperature... not all ABS is the same, you need to find the "sweetspot" for your specific role of material! Default temperature for PLA is 200C, mine prints best on 210C, I mentioned that as an example...
ABS tends to warp, therefore it is suggested to use brim or raft... but still, when bed is not level, squish incorrect and not printing on the right temperature... prints will fail!
I hope you don't mix Fahrenheit and Celsius... 245F in only 118C 😉
OK. I want to start at the beginning because I'm old and easily confused so please bear with me.
You have a Chinese Ender 3 printer.
You are using the Czech slicing software Prusaslicer.
You've come to the Dutch Ultimaker Cura site for help with the Chinese printer and Czech slicer.
OK. Now I've got it straight. I'm good with that.
Mari and I both have Ender 3 Pro's. I don't know where Mari is but I'm in the USA. So we have country of origin in common as well as our printers.
I am pretty sure my printer has no idea where it is. Unless I send an M149 F it's going to be metric, and that gcode file has all metric temps and distances in it. It was sliced in relative mode and the E numbers are all metric. There is an old American saying..."If it looks like a duck and it quacks like a duck then it's a duck."
I bring all of that up because there does seem to be some confusion on your part. I don't want you to get mad at me, but I really need to ask...are you sure that is ABS? Because it really looks a lot like PLA that was way over-temp when it extruded onto a way over-temp bed and the temperatures in that gcode file are for ABS (although personally I would run the bed at 105C).
On a personal note, I'm still confused. As I get older that state of mind seems to be evolving into my normal state.
20 minutes later here is the first 15 layers of the print. ABS at 245C hot end, 105 bed. I aborted the print when it started to warp. I knew it would since I don't keep the printer in the enclosure in the house do to ABS giving off noxious fumes. It looks good.
Edited by GregValiant
Sorry, looking at the slicer, it does say C not F, so I was using the recommended temp.
As for manufacturer recommend temp on the filament, I don't have one, I got a bunch of 5m coils to experiment with while getting used to the printer.
I've tries brims, skirts and rafts, and none of them work with PLA setting, which is why I'm using ABS settings. With ABS settings even with skirts and brims and rafts the model can come loose. I do clean the bed regularly, and apply new blue painters tape to the bed, and still I can have this happen.
Printing PLA with ABS-settings --> PRINT FAIL - print temp way to high...
Printing ABS with PLA-settings --> PRINT FAIL - print temp way to low, material will probably not melt
Therefore we want to know WHAT material are you trying to print?
Settings are very important... many of them can make your prints fail...
If the material your are printing is PLA, try this file... it is a calibration cube...
@GregValiant are you sure PrusaSlicer is Austrian? I thought Prusa is from Czech Republic but I could be wrong about the software.
For your information, I'm from the Netherlands 🤪
Edited by Mari
Aqua-Net Super Hold hairspray. A light dusting like a first coat of spray paint. After printing, clean the surface with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
@gr5 hates when I say this, but pushing the flow on the first layer to 105% or 110% can help a new kid get a good first layer. After that you can set it back to 100%. The flow can be adjusted on your LCD using Tune then scrolling all the way down below fan speed to "Flow". You didn't mention, but are you using an Auto Bed Leveler? I ask because I use parchment paper. It's thin, nothing sticks to it, and it doesn't require firmware changes.
Now I don't have to print PLA at 245 on a 90 bed.
Do like Mari says though and go back to a calibration cube. Use the stock PLA settings (.2 layer height, .4 linewidth) and the Aqua-net hairspray. If you're leveling with a piece of printer paper it should be snug under the nozzle.
My video has lots of suggestions like about squishing the first layer more.
Well first determine the material. Boil some water, put it in a coffee mug and then and stick the material in it for about 20 seconds. Even just 10 seconds is enough. The water will probably cool almost immediately to around 80C (due to the coffee mug absorbing some heat). Stick some filament in there. If it's pla and you bend the material it will stay bent a few seconds later when it cools. If it's ABS it will act no different than if it is cold.
Also ABS smells bad when you melt it. Really nasty. You will be wondering if you should open a window. That's a giveaway as well. PLA smells kind of like hot vegetable oil. Like something was fried in corn oil. And it's not obvious unless you stick your nose near the printer. PLA has a pleasant smell.
If you use painters tape you have to clean it (also in the video). Don't use painters tape since you have a heated bed. Watch the video - it's all explained. If it really is ABS then I'd create some ABS glue (google it).
@Mari - Could be Czech. It's over there someplace and I dislike having to do research for a joke. It kills the spontaneity.
@gr5 that is a nice video. I'll have to watch it again tomorrow when I'm more awake.
Thanks all for your help, I've got the printer working now (mostly).
A large part of the problems is the face that the fist filament I bought was not labeled as to wht it was.
I bought more filament that is clearly labeled PLA, and now the printer is working fine on PLA setting.
You aren't the first person that has happened to. You will also run into the "shelf life" thing. I usually buy from Matter Hackers but they run out. I bought some PLA from an Amazon seller and although it was vacuum packed with a silica gel pack, it was loaded with moisture. The little steam explosions were exciting but produced really bad prints. Fortunate for me our oven has a Dehydrating function that runs the exhaust fan and I can turn it down to 115 degrees. 6 hours and it was good to go.
Edited by GregValiantTo prevent failure due too moisture in filament I bought myself a Wanhoa Box 2 filament dryer. I throw a new role for a few hours in the dryer and then store the role in a Zip-bag together with a silica gel pack when not in use...
That works for me too. The silica gel packs come back to life after being dehydrated. I'm in Florida so humidity is a way of life.
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Mari 36
Is the bed correct leveled?
What temperature are you printing?
What speed are you printing?
Checked belt-tension?
Calibrated Extruder?
ABS is a litte more difficult to print with then PLA!
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