1972 Shasta Compact for the wife (she does have two ears and they work amazingly well). I thought the bumper, spare tire, and LP tank turned out quite well. I think these were with a .4 but I can't remember. A real plus is that she actually wears them.
Part placement doesn't look level (flat)....
Loaded the part, selected "Brim" and this is how it looked.....
It came in exactly square for me. At Z=-0.98 is just barely shows the three contact points of the fins. That was with McMuffin60's original 3mf file.
You might get more satisfactory print results if you specifically design or redesign it for 3D-printing. I gave the idea a quick and dirty try. These wings are way more stable and should print better, with or without brim. And the eye for the wire is less likely to break off. Also, it has less steep overhangs that could cause trouble. This is a very simple model made by adding and subtracting basic shapes, and then rounding and chamfering a few edges. Created in DesignSpark Mechanical. ... Okay, it looks more like a bomb than a rocket now, but hey. 🙂
Here the STL file, and the DesignSpark Mechanical native RSDOC-file (zipped). Feel free to modify and play around with it. Print as slow, cool and in thin layers as possible.
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Wow, @geert_2, I really appreciate the time you took to make an easier to print model! Unfortunately, I'm dead set on this design as I've been drawing this type of rocket for years and it really means something to me by now. The circle radius revolved around an axis, chopped at one end, the pointy fins, the lil window, are all exactly how I want it.
It's perfect to me.
If I got that black one to print I'm sure this one will come around soon enough. Then, I just paint it and have the coolest earring that I designed from scratch and brought into existence mostly by my own hands save for the generous knowledge provided by all of you guys.
Gonna take another stab at this now, we'll see how this works out...
I chopped the tips off in CAD. Why is it now hanging them above the raft?
That looks OK to me.....
I also have it on zero, but I wanted a brim
Nevermind, found the issue!
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ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
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GregValiant 1,251
You're not going to let those earrings win are you.
The "Support Z Distance is 2 layer heights (.24) and that could be narrowed to .12.
Changing to "Z overrides XY" might help.
But you may be asking too much of the system. Trying to print a pin with the point down is never easy. So much depends on the layer adhesion at the start and the plastic is gooey so the initial speck gets pulled off the support structure. And as you saw, it can recover but on a small model there isn't much room for error.
Here is your initial speck...
I made the above noted adjustments, added a 5mm brim with Brim Distance .1mm, and moved the entire model down to Z=-2.5. Here is the resulting first layer...
You can see that it is much larger because I've cut the tips off. The model has a much higher chance to complete since it has a better base to build on. You might also look at putting the rocket on a raft. Divorcing it from the raft might be a problem though.
You could also try printing multiples (you are aware these things usually come in pairs?). Minimum Layer Time dictates the speed on these and slow is good.
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mcmuffin6o 3
Nope. No chance I'm gonna let these things win. I wanna look cool, and I wanna make cool jewelry for people. I made a friend skull earrings for her birthday and ever since I saw how those turned out I've been pushing the stock ender 3 pro to do things smaller and finer.
I'll look at changing the support gap. Perhaps that will even give me a better finish on the back of the fins. A raft is a must, and I had forgotten to add one because I took a break from these for a while. I will say that earlier, smaller (yes, I was able to print smaller, it just didn't have the durability I was after), models came out just fine for the most part, so I have hope that the raft will go a long way. If I need to do some tip chopping, however, I'm not terribly opposed to it. Getting the thing off the raft certainly was a process last time, but I was able to get it done with some filament snippers easily enough.
As sort of a side question, what can I do to make this thing stronger? I have the layer width over-expanding from the nozzle diameter by 25% in the hopes that it will squish the layers together better but those fins are still dang brittle even after thickening them up.
As for printing in pairs, I only have one ear pierced! Besides, it seems like moving the head away from the print after each layer might make adhesion more iffy. Still, if I can control the travel speed, accuracy by volume might be the way to go.
I might even just switch back to default quality, because this one I printed at 2x model size (target is 1.8x model size, 1.5x model size if I can really help it) on stock nozzle stock settings turned out great and the fins are super strong. It was also printed with overture filament instead of the sample that came with the printer, so that could also be a part of it. I did just buy a new roll in white, so perhaps its time I load that instead of the old, waterlogged sampler stuff you see the results of here.
Lots of options, but you'll see some fine earrings soon enough.
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