Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.


Ferryy

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited) · Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.

The Ultimaker 2+ Connect unfortunately doesn't have active bed leveling. When I was performing the build-in manual leveling procedure, I ran into issues with the front-right screw. It was impossible to lower the buildplate further since the screw is tightened all the way. Hence printing the first layer goes poorly due to the small space on this side of the bed.

 

I suspect that I have to adjust the small Z-Limit screw (to lower the complete buildplate) which is in the back under the buildplate, but I couldn't find any instructions on how to do this. How can I open up the white cover on the back without breaking anything?

Edited by Ferryy
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • Ferryy changed the title to Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.
    Posted · Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.

    I think it is enough when you slightly bend the end switch in the bottom back to "adjust" the end stop of Z.

    So when you are too high you need to lower the bed, so bend the switch down just a little bit.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.

    Today I have opened the box of a brand new Ulitmaker 2+ Connect. I am experience the same issue "manual leveling, can't lowe bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed."

     

    The Printhead bows the glass buildplate both on the left and right front side. You hear the nozzle touching the bed. The Z-Limit screws are not 'long/short' enough to perform the job. 

     

    The proposed solution is not clear for me. Can you eloborate furhter?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.

    At my UM2+Connect the distance from the top surface of the aluminum tray to the top surface of the glas is quite exactly 20,0mm when the bed is levelled.  The adjusting screws are dragging the builplate down against the force of the spring. Between the aluminum tray and the adjusting screw there is a washer. If this is missing, perhaps the travel of the screw is to short to lower the buildplate low enough. At my printhead the distance from the nozzle tip to the bottom side of the lower aluminum plate, where the hot end is mounted, is 18mm. Perhaps the nozzle is not all the way in.

     

    On the bottom side of the aluminum tray between the z-spindle and the left guiding rod there is a screw pointing downwards which is switching the limit switch in the bottom of the printer. If you bend the lever of the limit switch slightly down, the home position of the whole tray will be slightly lower. Perhaps this will give you the fraction of a mm which is missing. If you only have the problem at the front screws, perhaps the tray is bent? Adding washers at the front adjusting screws probably will help.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Manual Leveling, can't lower bed any further. Printhead still too close to bed.

    Old thread but sharing in case someone has the same issue and stumbles on this thread. 
     

    I just bought a UM2C and had this exact issue, the front right thumb nut would bottom out but there was still no gap between the nozzle and glass. I’m confused why UM got rid of the initial rough adjustment that the UM2+ has in it’s leveling procedure, where you rotate the control knob until the nozzle is about 1mm away. It would prevent an issue like this. 
     

    Anyway, I solved this by swapping the limit switch screw on the buildplate carrier. Originally it’s a M3x16mm, I replaced it with a M3x14mm. I prefer this over bending the limit switch, I couldn’t get it to bend enough and I was worried I’d break it if I tried pushing harder

     

    Simply pop off the back cover and use a piece of blue masking tape to hold it to the top of the printer to keep it out of the way. Then remove the screw to the left of the lead screw and replace with the shorter screw. 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.3 stable released
        In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 24 replies
      • Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
        The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
         
         
        So what’s new?
        The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
         
        The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
         
        The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
         

         
        The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
        Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more  
        Curious to see the S7 in action?
        We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
        It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
        Register here for the Webinar
          • Like
        • 18 replies
      • UltiMaker Cura Alpha 🎄 Tree Support Spotlight 🎄
        Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
         
        We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.  
          • Like
        • 22 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...