Loading ASA onto my Ultimaker 3

[medicalmodeller 5]

I print with ASA a lot and when I load filament the choice on filaments does not include ASA.  So I generally choose nylon so the print head is nice and hot

 

Is this the right thing to do?

 

Is there a firmware update that includes ASA as a profile so that I do not get warnings

 

THanks

[TimonR 21]

Typically ABS has similar printing profiles as ASA, so that might work as well - depending on the ASA you're using.

What you could also do, is download a marketplace ASA profile suitable for your UM3 (maybe you're using one of these actually?). https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials?machine_variant=Ultimaker 3&page=1&polymer_classes=asa

 

Hope this helps!

 

[Fulv 1]

Hello,

 

I saw this post today thanks.

I have a question if I may.
I am printing ASA filament from Filamentum for the first time on my Ultimaker 3 printer using the cura profile download it from the marketplace.

In my first 2 tests I have been having problems to make it stick to the glass plate using a glue stick. 
what should I use instead? Any suggestions?

your help is very much appreciated:)

thank you 

 

[medicalmodeller 5]

Have printed lots with ASA from Filamentum.

 

I do not print onto glass.  I was using the BuildTak FlexPlate system.  However the higher temperature for ASA seemed not to suit the surface.  So I then put a PEI sheet onto the flex plate and that works quite well.  My problem was now more that the ASA stuck too well.  So now use Magigoo on the sheet.  It is sticky when warm but not when cold.

 

On my Ultimaker 2 Go I now print onto Zyflex.  I do not use the Magigoo for PLA but I do for ASA.  The Zyflex surface works on the magnetic base of the Buildtak.

 

If you have an Ultimaker with automatic levelling, it does not work at all with Buildtak and damages the softer Zyflex.

 

I would strong recommend having one or other flexible and removable surface.  So much easier

 

Boyd

 

 

 

 

[Fulv 1]

Thank you very much for the advice.

[gr5 2,189]

@Fulv - I don't think I have ever printed ASA and it's not on the Ultimaker list of common materials (maybe because it's very difficult to print?) but I heard that it's similar to ABS.  So the trick to ABS is to be above it's softening temp.  I would put a bit of filament on the heated bed under a towel and try different temps until it softens significantly.  Supposedly this is at 105C.  Then I would make sure the bed is slightly above this temp so probably at 110C.  This will greatly reduce the lifting forces as often parts come loose at the corners first.

 

Also use brim.

 

Also make sure it's squishing the bottom layer thoroughly

 

Also use a wet tissue and spread around the gluestick (and also remove most of it).  With gluestick, the thinner the layer, the more parts stick to it (counter intuitive).  Although obviously when all the gluestick is gone it stops working.

[medicalmodeller 5]

ASA is not difficult to print.  I made my own material profile.  To stop delamination, it helps to have a door/cover  on the front of the printer and no draughts.  I also have the fans at 10%, print at 240deg and bed at 90deg

 

ASA is useful as it is UV resistant.  So good for boat parts!

 

TM

[Fulv 1]

21 hours ago, gr5 said:

@Fulv - I don't think I have ever printed ASA and it's not on the Ultimaker list of common materials (maybe because it's very difficult to print?) but I heard that it's similar to ABS.  So the trick to ABS is to be above it's softening temp.  I would put a bit of filament on the heated bed under a towel and try different temps until it softens significantly.  Supposedly this is at 105C.  Then I would make sure the bed is slightly above this temp so probably at 110C.  This will greatly reduce the lifting forces as often parts come loose at the corners first.

 

Also use brim.

 

Also make sure it's squishing the bottom layer thoroughly

 

Also use a wet tissue and spread around the gluestick (and also remove most of it).  With gluestick, the thinner the layer, the more parts stick to it (counter intuitive).  Although obviously when all the gluestick is gone it stops working.

 

[Fulv 1]

Great advice thank you very much. I have been using the Filamentum profile from Ultimaker market place. I have increased the bed temperature from 90 to 105, I have been using PrintaFix instead of the glue stick and it seams have done the trick 🙂

I am very happy, it is a good material to use for functional prototypes and good to simulate clips design and so on.

Thank you for your help. really appreciate it.

The only problem I had was this (see picture). There seams to be a build up of material around the nozzle. is it  too much flow? printing too slow maybe?

[Duckminster 1]

I was nervous to try BASF Ultrafuse ASA on my UM3 because it's not officially listed as compatible with the UM3, and it doesn't come cheap. But I needed the high temp and UV properties for a boat part, so I gave it a try using the stock ABS profile, and always use an enclosure. Dimafix gluestick on the glass plate.

I was pleasantly surprised to have zero issues right out of the gate. The print quality was probably the finest I've seen of any material, supports easily snapped off with no residual artifacts and I had no delamination from the build plate.

[JohnInOttawa 104]

As there is ASA expertise on this thread, I'd appreciate advice - I have my first ASA print job coming up.  I've really only printed PLA and nylon (or nylon/cf) to date, using my UM3, so haven't really had to deal with fumes.

 

In terms of bed adhesion, would an Ultimaker adhesion sheet or DimaFix work?  In terms of fume management and venting, how much of an issue should I be preparing for? 

 

Recommended nozzle size?  Detail is not significant so I was aiming for AA 0.4.  I read 240 for the nozzle and 90 for the bed are good?

 

 

Thanks in advance!

John

[medicalmodeller 5]

Fumes are not a problem.   

 

I have used the Buildtak surface on their Flexplate and the surface does not do well with the high temp for ASA

I have used high temp Zyflex from Zimple.  It is fine for small items but for large items it starts to lose its magnetic grip

The best seems to be Hawkung PEI sheet stuck onto the metal plate from the Buildtak system.  Problem was that the ASA stuck too well....

 

I have recently been using Magigoo on the PEI surface.   Its a clever glue that is sticky when hot but not when cool.  Makes getting the prints off much easier

 

240 for nozzle and 90 for the bed work for me with 0.4AA 

 

I do have a front cover for the UM£ and now print inside a cupboard to keep the temperature up.  I have the fans at 10%

 

Good luck