Detachment from the plate

[simmonsstummer 0]

Is this a problem i can prevent using the glue or.. more glue?

 

[IRobertI 521]

This is called "warp" or "warping", there's a lot of information about it on the forum.

A few quick tips to get you started:

- Make sure the glass is clean

- What temperature do you have the bed set to? I like to keep it around 60C but it can change depending on filament, some stick better than others.

- Yes, glue can help. Put it on lightly and then spread it around with a damp cloth to get rid of any lumps. The water will evaporate during heat up and leave a thin coat of glue on the bed.

- Less infill can help.

- Turning the fans on later or not at all can help

- Make sure the bed is nice and level so that the first layer sticks well.

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

thank you.

Happen sometimes like that or for the support column that cura creates. But that seems more a mechanical issue: the print head to print the next level of the support slightly touch it and not the first, not the second, not the third but the maybe after a while it detach the column... and clearly it damage the print.

By the way i'm finding the support created from cura really hard to remove without damaging the print.

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

just seen a 3 hours print...with.. warp.. aborted again.

I placed the glue...

my bed was 80°....this thing is totally random..

 

[gr5 2,333]

80C is too hot for PLA. I recommend 70C. Did you use the glue stick?

Even stronger than gluestick is wood glue mixed with water (3 parts water, 1 part wood glue) then spread on glass and allowed to dry completly (takes maybe same amount to dry as to get the heated bed up to 70C).

Often I fail a print because the print head it's the part hard and knocks it off. But usually I glue it down so strong that you can hit the part with a hammer and it won't come off.

Then the hard part is getting the part off the glass when it is done. The secret is to wait until it is COMPLETELY cooled down and use a sharp knife or a sharpened putty knife.

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

Ok i'm making a print right now and i noticed that the plate is not so hot...

in the buildplate temp tune says 102C/70C and the left is going down to reach the right temperature...

but if i touch the plate with my hand..it's almost cold..

i think that i would feel something like 70°C!

Maybe the problem i describe here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4227-is-leaving-the-ultimaker2-alone-safe/&do=findComment&comment=35061

is the problem...

maybe the temp sensor of the buildplate is gone!

 

[IRobertI 521]

Yes, if the plate isn't heating up that would certainly cause issues with your print. IIRC there have been a few cases where the connector on the heated bed has bad solder joints. It might be worth removing the bed and having a look at that. Also check that the wires that goes into the bed are firmly in place. On my bed one or two of the wires are quite loose and I could pull them out easily if I wanted to (I really should fix that...).

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

well but that should have compromise the heating since the begin...

Instead i think that this is happening after the firmware upgrade...

 

[gr5 2,333]

Every time your plate moves up and down it can move the wires a little. This has nothing to do with firmware. Just take the plate apart.

 

[gr5 2,333]

I posted limited instructions with 2 pictures over in that other thread you refer to.

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

Thank you but the problem still persists.

 

[simmonsstummer 0]

and:

 

[gr5 2,333]

Using brim will help quite a bit with this lifting corner. When the part comes to a sharp corner all the force is directed at a tiny area of the corner. If you can either change the part to have a rounded corner, or add brim it spreads the force to the entire curvature and holds down better.

Once the tiniest bit of corner is lifted, air gets under and the problem spreads.

Another choice is to use RAFT but brim is better because raft causes the bottom layer to be very ugly. But if you don't care about the look of the bottom, then raft can work better than brim.

If your plate is not 70C then you need to fix the print bed. I mentioned possible causes over in another thread of yours.