Temperature for Faberdashery Black 3mm PLA?

[dubtec 0]

Hi,

I'm trying to print with black Faberdashery PLA.

Im used to my old prusa i3 and mainly used 200 for most filament but never tried Fabs..

Ive recently purchased an ultimaker, and using the supplied "ultimaker filament" printing at 220 no problem.

What sort of temp would you print Fabs black with.. Im trying 235, but this seems awe fully high?

Does the ultimaker read high by 20 degrees? compared to reprap designs.

Any help would be much appreciated

Dave.

 

[illuminarti 16]

It's difficult to compare temperatures between different hot end designs, but no, in general the temperatures should be fairly consistent.

I've never tried faberdashery's black but their other filaments I usually print at 230 - as I do all other PLA's.

PLA will print at anything between about 180 and 250, but at the lower end it's too thick to extrude quickly through the 0.4mm nozzle, and at the upper end it's too runny to have much control.

What later height and speed are you printing?

[dubtec 0]

printing at 0.1 or trying to...

will try 230 as 235 was too stringy.

 

[illuminarti 16]

And what is the problem that you're having, exactly?

[dubtec 0]

it liked like it was under extruding.. double checked diameter 2.76 - 2.82 so averaged at 2.79mm.

will try again.. get back in a mo

thanks so far mate ;-)

 

[dubtec 0]

230 working..thanks

also looks like my z start height had changed, since i cleaned the pet tape... i thought the z height switch was an "omcron" and highly repeatable?maybe i pushed to hard when cleaning.

i have a spare hall effect switch, cant see how to get it on the board though, as it only has 2 wires?

 

[jonnybischof 59]

I'm doing a print with glowbug yellow (it glows so much it hurts the eyes o.O) at 210°C. Works perfectly well...

 

230 working..thanks

also looks like my z start height had changed, since i cleaned the pet tape... i thought the z height switch was an "omcron" and highly repeatable?maybe i pushed to hard when cleaning.

i have a spare hall effect switch, cant see how to get it on the board though, as it only has 2 wires?

 

I don't think the problem is with your z-endswitch. Much rather the platform itself, it's pretty wobbly and if you push it too hard, it may shift.

Actually you shouldn't push on it too hard, that's not good for the poor thing

(It's getting friday evening again - I should stop writing)

 

[dubtec 0]

Found the problem

Always make sure the black cam lever is down - no wonder it was under extruding ;-)

 

[gr5 1,108]

Always make sure the black cam lever is dow

 

lol! Here's some info I posted about stringing (first photo):

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Also the mechanical limit switches have been tested and seem to be repeatable to 1 micron. So you shouldn't need to change that part.

 

[gr5 1,108]

One more thing - the wood bed on the UM will warp and droop from day to day. It's much worse on a brand new UM. After a few months it's a bit more stable but the spring system of the acrylic bed isn't all that stable either.

 

[tukl 0]

We had a couple of faberdahserrys filament and are printing with 210°, 0,1mm Layerheight and 50mm/s on an UM2! Very nice results, much better than filament from igo3d or even Ultimaker!