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Posted · Ultimaker 2+

Hey guys, dont know about launguage to write here, will write on both (english, german)

On way to buy an ultimaker 2+, but what about long time test? Problems? Heard years ago, Ultimaker 2 had some problems with the drive.

Have an Ultimaker S5 at work, not mine my Boss, and my colleague is enthusiastic about the device. But for me it is too expensive.

Shortly to me: experience in SolidWorks, Autodesk, CNC production since years, deep understanding of materials and manufacturing.

Wants to experiment and make small things for the household

Look forward for feedback

 

Will mir ein Ultimaker 2+ kaufen, gibt es da ein Langzeittest? Problemme? Vor Jahren hörte ich, dass Ultimaker 2 Problemme mit dem Antrieb hatte.

Wir haben ein Ultimaker S5 im Geschäft, gehört meinem Chef, der Arbeitskollege, der darauf entwirft und herstellt ist begeistert von dem Gerät.

Für mich ist es aber leider zu teuer. Kurz zu mir: Kenntnisse in SolidWorks, Autodesk, CNC-Fräser seit fast 20 Jahren, daher ist Verständnis zum Thema Materiallien usw. vorhanden.

Will experimentieren und kleine Dinge für den Haushalt fertigen

Rückmeldung wäre schön.

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+

    There is a german section of the forum and it's pretty active but the english section has more people.

     

    UM2+ fixes issues of the UM2 feeder.  It's a fantastic printer and will tend to give you better quality than the S5 if you stick with PLA.  It can print PETG or nGen or CPE quite well but I'd avoid anything that needs higher temperatures than that like Nylon.  It can print Nylon but you will go through the teflon part a lot faster.  S5 also prints dissolvable support material, and abrasive materials.  I have 3 active UM2 printers and they are used more than my UM3 or my S5.

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+

    Regarding lifetime - these printers seem to last "forever".  The parts that need replacing are almost always very inexpensive.  The teflon part needs to be replace every 500 or so hours of printing but is only about 20 euros.  The belts need to be changed after many years of printing.  Around 2000 to 5000 hours of printing (25 to 50 spools of filament).  Also not expensive.

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+

    Hallo allreadybeentaken,

    ich habe mir einen UM 2+ Connect vor einem Jahr angeschafft und es nicht bereut. Komme auch aus der Ingenieur-Ecke und arbeite mit SolidWorks in der Firma und Fusion360 zu Hause. Natürlich gibt es günstigere Drucker, die auch gute Ergebnisse liefern. Ich habe einige Kollegen, die mit anderen Geräten Erfahrungen gesammelt haben. Ich wollte jedoch keinen Bausatz oder Drucker, wo ich viel Zeit investieren muss, bis der Drucker richtig läuft. 3D-Druck ist schon vom Prozess her ein gewisser Zeitaufwand, bis man alle Parameter eingestellt hat, da wollte ich mich nicht auch noch mit dem Drucker herumschlagen. Außerdem hatten die Kolegen auch schon häufiger defekte Netzteile oder andere Probleme. Ich hatte bisher nur einen defekten Temperatursensor am Druckbett innerhalb der Gewährleistung, das wurde durch Ultimaker schnell getauscht.

     

    Mit dem UM 2+ Connect konnte ich nach Justage des Druckbettes direkt am ersten Tag sehr gute Drucke mit PLA machen. Drucke jetzt meistens PETG, damit bekommt man wirklich haltbare stabile Teile hin. Der Drucker ist, wenn ich als Ingenieur spreche, einfach aber solide aufgebaut. Sehr gut gefällt mir der geschlossene Bauraum, ich habe mir oben drauf noch den Air-Manager spendiert. So bleibt der Druckraum staubfrei und Druckgeräusche und -gerüche sind minimal.

     

    Wenn es finanziell geht, würde ich das wieder so machen.

     

    I bought a UM 2+ Connect a year ago and have not regretted it. I also come from an engineering background and work with SolidWorks at work and Fusion360 at home. Of course there are cheaper printers that also deliver good results. I have some colleagues who have experience with other devices. However, I did not want a kit or printer where I have to invest a lot of time until the printer runs properly. 3D printing is already a certain amount of time from the process until you have set all the parameters, so I didn't want to mess around with the printer as well. In addition, my colleagues have often had defective power supplies or other problems. So far, I only had a defective temperature sensor on the print bed within the warranty period, which was quickly replaced by Ultimaker.


    With the UM 2+ Connect, I was able to make very good prints with PLA directly on the first day after adjusting the print bed. I now print mostly PETG, which makes for really durable, stable parts. The printer is, if I speak as an engineer, simple but solidly built. I really like the closed construction space, and I added the air manager on top. This keeps the print chamber dust free and print noise and odors are minimal.


    If it is financially possible, I would do it again.

    (Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version))

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+
    14 hours ago, MarkusBaumann said:

    Ich hatte bisher nur einen defekten Temperatursensor am Druckbett innerhalb der Gewährleistung

    Wie hast du es erkannt?

     

    Ich denke, ich werde die erste Zeit nur mit einfachen Stoffen (PLA) einfache Sachen drucken. Erst mal mit der Software vertraut machen, habe gesehen, dass es da viel zu lesen gibt. Eine Frage noch: verschiedene Aufsätze (0,25;0,6;0,8) benutzt ihr diese oder ist das meiste mit 0,4mm getan?

     

    I think, i will work with easy to print materials like PLA for first time. Learn software and so on, lot to read. Just a question: do you use several print heads (0,25;0,6;0,8) or just 0,4mm for most of your pieces?

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+

    Most people use 0.4mm for 90% of prints.  I sell things (about 1 per week) so I print lots of parts (over 13 different printed parts go into one sale), each of which I may print 50 per year.  So it was worth my time to experiment with different nozzle sizes to get great accurate parts printed fast.  I use 0.8 and 0.6mm nozzles for parts larger than a pack of cigarettes and 0.4mm nozzles for things smaller.  For a while I used a 0.25mm nozzle for one of the smallest parts but I switched to 0.4mm as that is good enough.  I can go a year without using the 0.25mm nozzle but everyone has different needs.

     

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    Posted · Ultimaker 2+

    google "3d printer cold pull".  The procedure is the same for all 3d printers.

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    On 5/6/2022 at 10:58 AM, alreadybeentaken said:
    On 5/5/2022 at 7:46 PM, MarkusBaumann said:

    Ich hatte bisher nur einen defekten Temperatursensor am Druckbett innerhalb der Gewährleistung

    Wie hast du es erkannt?

    Der Drucker hat einen Fehler erkannt und den Druck abgebrochen. Der Fehler war zunächst nicht klar auf den Temperatursensor zurückzuführen, aber als ich den Widerstand des Sensors vermessen habe, war es schnell klar.

     

    Die Druckparameter sind so vielfältig, da macht es Sinn, zuerst mit einfachen Objekten und Druckmaterialien zu beginnen. Eine 0,4mm Düse ist da für die allermeisten Objekte passend. PLA ist gut druckbar und das richtige Material um Erfahrung zu sammeln. Ich denke oft wird der Fehler gemacht, die Druckgeschwindigkeit auszureizen um besonders kurze Druckzeiten zu bekommen. Meine Erfahrung ist, langsamer drucken bringt bessere Qualität und vermeidet viele Probleme. Wenn dann alles passt, kann die Geschwindigkeit erhöht werden.

     

    Ich drucke selten auch mit einer 0,25mm Düse. Ich würde aber immer das Druckmaterial mit einer 0,4mm Düse zuerst probieren, bis ich damit gute Ergebnisse bekomme und die Druckparameter kenne, bevor ich die 0,25mm Düse einsetze.

     

    In dem einen Bild sieht man PETG-Filament nach einem Cold Pull. An dem sauberen Abdruck der Innenfläche der Düse ist zu erkennen, dass die Düse sauber ist. Die Roboter habe ich mit PETG gedruckt, den großen mit einer 0,4mm Düse, die kleineren mit einer 0,25mm Düse.

     

    The printer detected an error and stopped printing. The error was not clearly attributable to the temperature sensor at first, but when I measured the resistance of the sensor, it quickly became clear.


    The printing parameters are so various, so it makes sense to start with easy objects and printing materials first. A 0.4mm nozzle is suitable for most objects. PLA prints well and is the right material to gain experience. I think often the mistake is made to push the print speed to get very short print times. My experience is, printing slower brings better quality and avoids many problems. If then everything fits, the speed can be increased.


    I rarely print with a 0.25mm nozzle. But I would always try the print material with a 0.4mm nozzle first until I get good results with it and know the print parameters before I use the 0.25mm nozzle.


    In the one picture you can see PETG filament after a cold pull. From the clean impression of the inner surface of the nozzle, you can see that the nozzle is clean. I printed the robots with PETG, the big one with a 0.4mm nozzle, the smaller ones with a 0.25mm nozzle.

    Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

    D5200_20211017_22416.JPG

    IMG_20210315_233013046_HDR.jpg

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    Years ago I did a manual on cleaning the nozzle of an UM2. It is not the official method, but it is more gently, without the hard pulling of the (back then) official method. So it is not as hard on the mechanics of the printer, but with equally good results.

     

    Have a look here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/

     

    It was for the UM2 (non-plus), but I think you can borrow most aspects for other printers too.

     

    As for parameters to print: most of the time I use the defaults for the UM2, which are pretty good:

    - for general PLA: 50mm/s, 0.1-03mm layers, nozzle 210°C, bed 60°C, fan 100%.

    - for general PET: 0.1-0.2mm layers, nozzle 215-225°C, bed 70-80°C, fan off.

    - for hight quality tiny models in PLA: 20-30mm/s, 0.06mm layers, nozzle 190-200°C, bed 60°C, fan 100%.

    - for tiny high quality PET models: 20-25mm/s, 0.06mm layers, nozzle 205-215°C, bed 70°C, fan off.

    - nozzle is always 0.4mm on an UM2 (non-plus).

     

    The most common issues I have with the UM2:

    - irregular underextrusion: teflon coupler is worn out, thus replace (once every 500h our so).

    - regular underextrusion, PLA only: you are near the end of a spool, and it is wound-up so strong that it acts like a strong spring resisting unwinding, and causing a lot of friction in the bowden tube and nozzle. Then manually unwind a bit of filament, bend it in the opposit direction around a skater wheel, and release it. Now it is more relaxed with a bigger bending radius, causing no more friction and resistance.

    - tiny black flakes in the print: the inside of the nozzle is dirty: clean with cold pulls, or my method above.

    - thick brown blobs in the print: the outside of the nozzle is dirty, due to material accumulated on the outside, decomposing, and then sagging onto the print. Happens occasionally with PET, not so much with PLA. Treating the hot nozzle with PTFE-oil or silicon oil (when there is no filament in it), helps a bit, but does not eliminate it.

     

    While you are at my internet page, have a look at my improved horseshoe clip too, and print a couple of them. That clip makes it a lot easier to remove the bowden tube.

     

    horseshoeclip.jpg.f0b28c4ee645faf0935adc8b67b35887.jpg

     

    image.jpeg.25b9cf6a6ddf0233a5b0a77b640ccab1.jpeg

     

     

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