Help needed with an ultimaker 2 extended

[VidJa 1]

Hi all, I inherited an ultimaker 2 extended (so a newby) and face a few issues. Sometimes i get the dreaded bed sensor error when I use a heated bed.

 

when I try to print a standard cube or anything else, the printer stops extrusion after a couple of minutes into the program (5-15, may vary). If it prints, the print looks nice

 

i’ve checked a few things:

the printhead is not clogged.

the bowden tube sits firmly in the  printhead and does not seem to move during printing. 
i can manually feed and retract the filament but sometimes it looks like it is not entering the print head (when it does I can extrude )

when it gets stuck and I detach the bowden tube, the filament look like in the picture, with a blob at the end  that seems to block progress

 

The feeder is clean and firmly moves the filament

i’ve read and tried the options from the support site

 

https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417952792

 

should I disassemble the printhead and replace the hotend?

 

i tried to reduce retraction in the settings from 4.5mm to 2 but that did not help. 

I use PLA at the recommended temperature (200c) for now

 

i do have some spare parts such a a hot end and print heads

 

Any ideas on how to resurrect this otherwise fine printer?

 

best vic

[Torgeir 243]

Hi @VidJa

 

Welcome in here. 

 

I've also an UM2 Extended..

First, do you have the plus version of the UM2 E+? Or, do you have the old version with the black feeder at the back UM2 E?

 

Looking at the filament sticking out of the "bowden tube" made me think that the extruder cooling fan do not work.

This fan "normally" start to run when you switch on the printer the old version UM2. However if you have a "new" + version this fan do not start before the extruder heater sensor reach a preset temperature where this fan should start.

 

If this fan stop working, the upper part of the extruder would slowly be heated due to lack of cooling. This problem will soften the filament some until it be completely blocked.

 

Stringed filament can find it's way into the fan and partially lower the speed or even stop the fan working.

The power to the fan may be interrupted due to a broken wire at connector or some place along thus wire bundle.

 

Edit: This fan is the one on the back side of the extruder head (the small 5 VDC fan).

 

Let's see how this go.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

Edited December 15, 2023 by Torgeir
More info.

[VidJa 1]

Hi,

 

thanks for your response. I have indeed the version with the black feeder.
 

in between I replaced the tfm coupler(was deformed) in the extruder head

 

the rear fan had a broken wire, but i found out after repairing, it would still not run. However if I apply 4.5v to the  fan via the connector (uncoupled from the orange/blue wired connector of course. It does run smoothly. Nothing blocks the fan either 

 

i measured the voltage on the orange/blue connector after switching on the machine and heating the nozzle, but it remains 0 so the issue could be the connector to the main board or even the main board itself.

 

So the story will continue 

 

[gr5 2,178]

If you heat the nozzle the fan is definitely on by 60C so you only have to heat to say 80C.  Yes, check that fan wire.  Sometimes people connect it to the center of the board where there is a spot for a jumper that alters the substepping for the z stepper which acts as a short if connected to the fan and you get parts either twice or half as tall as desired (and also the fan doesn't spin).

 

 

[gr5 2,178]

As you can see the 5v fan (rear fan) and the "subdivision" jumper are close enough that they can be confused.

 

[Torgeir 243]

Hi Vic.

@gr5 gave you a very good advice of what to do.

 

In my experience, the bowden bundle wiring might have some answer to your problems..

Actually there are two point's of interest to check out, the bending points close to the extruder and the bending point close to the feeder!!!

 

Those are two point where the bundle/Cable always bend and fail, -close to the extruder -or close to the feeder!!!

 

And the two point's often where wires goes open and fails...

 

This are the two places to look fore problems, .......-always!!!

 

Anyway, good luck.

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

[VidJa 1]

Thanks both for all the input. I will check all the suggestions over the Christmas holidays 

[VidJa 1]

Hi all,

 

here's some followup on my inherited old lab printer. The thing has been running more or less continuously for the past years (mostly ABS and PETG) and definitely needed some love (and cleaning)

 

today I managed to fix the rear fan. The wire was broken on two places. As expected at the the bending point near the extruder before the connector and actually inside the print head after the connector. It was broken inside the protective sleeve that bundles all the wires. Apparently it was repaired before and that soldering point came loose. I re-soldered both and used a small heatshrink tube to protect it. The fan turns on when the extruder is over 40C. Thanks @gr5

 

I've re-seated all the connectors, some of them were a bit loose, probably because of all the transportation.

 

My other issue was the heated bed. Sometimes the I got the bed temp sensor ER02. I disassembled the heated bed and it turned out that the connectors for the PT100 were a bit oxidized. I cleaned and re-seated them, slightly bending the clip inwards first. I did not get the error anymore.

 

Furthermore I found some magnalube for the z-axis, which was dry and dusty, so cleaned that as well. I found some unilube for the x-y axes as well, not in the ultimaker box, but my neighbor had some for his model train sets. (i cleaned them first with a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol). Maybe the bowden tube needs to be replaced too

 

The printer came with several spools of PLA, ABS and PETG and something called durabio (logical, given that the printer was used for lab stuff). I managed to rescue some of the PLA at 50C since it has been in a rather humid enviroment for a long time. Didn't try the ABS and other materials yet.

 

Below is my first print in PLA after all the repairs. It took about an hour.

 

My only concern now is the feeder. It is the old UM2 version, but apparently the UM2+ version is a lot better. Can I just exchange it? I do get some grinding with one of the PLA spools.

 

 

[fbrc8-erin 274]

I'd recommend doing the extrusion upgrade kit if you're still using the UM2 feeder; the UM2 feeder was designed to kick back if it encounters issues, to avoid grinding. Which is great for avoiding grinding, but can give you under extrusion.

 

The geared feeder on the UM2+ is a lot stronger. I'd recommend doing the whole upgrade kit. To swap out just the feeder you'd still need the feeder, mounting plate, and motor anyway, and that puts you almost halfway to the price of an upgrade kit before even accounting for replacing consumables like the bowden tube and TFM coupler.

[VidJa 1]

I’m not sure. The only upgrade kit I could find that is available costs 485€. excluding a new bowden tube. That is more than a brand new creality ender.

 

new feeders can be found for €60 or so. Would a new block make a big difference?

 

 

[gr5 2,178]

The feeder upgrade is probably the most important change in the "+" kit.  If you want to go cheap you can 3d print the meduza kit and order the parts.  Look for meduza um2 on youmagine.com.  The meduza upgrade is almost as good as the um2+ feeder - particularly if you also print the iRoberti feeder on top of the meduza upgrade.

 

Ender is cheap, yes.  It's probably not going to last you 5000 hours of printing like the UM2 will (more than 5000 really).

[Dustin 132]

UltiMaker eco system is not a "Cheap" ecosystem.. even with parts from... well unauthorized resellers.. 

If your coming from a Ender, you will likely get hit with a significant shocker at cost of parts (even with my prior comment)

[VidJa 1]

I don’t mean  to go cheap, but let’s face it. This particular system is rather old and mainly used at high temps 24/7 for the past 4 years at least. is it still worth to invest €485+?

 

i’m glad I got it to work again ( which says something about build quality) and willing to invest in maintenance, but overhaul costs should be evaluated with new system costs in mind (bambu perhaps?)

Edited January 3 by VidJa

[gr5 2,178]

It's worth it for sure to invest in a 20 euro teflon spacer if you haven't changed that out in the last 4 years.

[VidJa 1]

Fortunately I had one of those as spare in the box