Ripples, echoes, or something else, And how to fix

[GregValiant 1,258]

I'll relate this as it is semi-interesting and there is some slight chance that it might have something to do with this.

 

I bought an upgrade mainboard for my printer.  Installation was fine, I calibrated the E-steps and ran a PID calibration and subsequent prints were fine.

Three weeks later, my prints developed a problem in that they would start out OK but after 30 to 40 minutes of printing I would get under-extrusion and I would have to abort the print.

(I became really good at tearing down and cleaning the hot end even though it never fixed the problem.)

Immediately after one such aborted print (before the machine had cooled down) I tried to re-calibrate the E-steps and found that instead of 97steps/mm it was 320steps/mm.

The next morning I checked again with the machine cooled down and it was back to 97steps/mm.  After 30 minutes of printing - 270steps/mm.

I put the old mainboard back in and everything was perfect.  My conclusion was that the E-driver chip had failed.  (After much back-and-forth Creality did replace the mainboard.)

 

A second odd thing that can happen is that if the mainboard fan doesn't come on, the mainboard gets hot, and wonkiness develops somewhere in the chip set.  It is something that is likely to be easy to check.

[Schmordan 4]

I think I've crossed out both of these issues though, as I tried some other prints later yesterday with the dried filaments, and they came out perfectly.

 

This print took about 1 and a half hours, but didn't show any of the waves shown by the white filament, so i think the E-Steps issue you ran into isn't my problem. Your other issue with the mainboard fan is not apparent either, as while doing another print, i lifted up my printer and saw the fan was operating properly. there is also nothing under my printer blocking airflow to the fan.

 

Edited March 11 by Schmordan

[Schmordan 4]

I think I might've boiled down the problem to temperature and speed.

 

Yesterday, I tried using a brand new roll of Grey ESUN PLA+ to print the katana blade, and the problem occurred even with that. I noticed that when I reduced the temperature, the effects of the problem seemed to go down. 

 

I think the problem is being caused by the hot nozzle melting and warping the already extruded plastic, causing a consistent wave pattern. by reducing the temperature of the nozzle and reducing the time it lingers on one spot, I may be able to eliminate this problem.

 

I might be wrong, as this has never happened before, and it might be a thermistor problem (I had to replace my hotend with the Creality Spider Pro) or another weird issue.

 

if anyone has any other ideas on what the issue is, please feel free to share.

Edited March 11 by Schmordan

[Torgeir 243]

Hi @Schmordan,

I'll know you have lots of relevant good advises about your problem.

 

However, the printed object above are about the best result we can expect to have printing with a FDM 3D printer.

So, allow me to introduce another "hidden" issue -and this is about printing with white colored filament!

 

This color need more cooling when printed, it is better to stay in the lo end of temperature and speed with this filament.

It's very much related to the color itself, but also to the type of thermoplastic type printed (heat collect properties).

 

Thermal consequences of color and near-infrared reflectance play an important role in this issue.

Dark color (black are the best) have very good properties for 3D printing, but the lighter the color become will need just a little more time to melt...

 

White colored filament do not absorb heat as fast as black (or other dark filament) and are also harder to cool down because those radiation properties!

 

My last take here are about drying this type of filament. You'll need forced heat flow, meaning a food dryer for about 10 hour.

 

I could say a lot about this issue, but think this should cover whats matter.

 

This worked best for me.

Anyway, good luck with your printing.

Torgeir

[Slashee_the_Cow 270]

10 hours ago, Schmordan said:

I think the problem is being caused by the hot nozzle melting and warping the already extruded plastic, causing a consistent wave pattern. by reducing the temperature of the nozzle and reducing the time it lingers on one spot, I may be able to eliminate this problem.

Looking at the file you posted earlier, I print mine at the same temperature although I do have flow at 100% (which would affect it). And if it's a replacement hot end it could be a bit inaccurate. But the important part is if you've found a solution that works for you. Every problem has about twelve possible different solutions and it's basically just trial and error.

 

@Torgeir thanks for the science lesson, I always learn to love new things 🙂 

[Schmordan 4]

As well as drying filament, I think printing a new cooling fan system such as the Bullseye or Petsfang duct may also help my cause, by cooling down the filament faster, omnidirectionally and more efficiently.

 

Thank you to all who have helped and contributed to this thread!