Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Looking for the best way to remove PLA residues from the print head?

Recommended Posts

Hello people

After many hours of printing time, everywhere black and gluey PLA residues form at the hot end of my UM2.

Unfortunately, I have to date not show pictures because I have cleaned the print head recently.

I have always worked with very moderate temperatures of 210-190 degrees. Nevertheless arise sticky residue.

You can burn these residues and gently polish the brass afterwards. But I wish if there is a gentler method?

Maybe there are no PLA residues and it has to do with my adhesive for the first layers something, I do not know exactly.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, that aids in the removal of larger residues.

But slowly to my print-head around is a tar-like covering. It probably has no effect on the correct function, but it just looks disgusting. And difficult disassembly of the small two-piece hot-end.

For ABS, there are acetone, I think, but there is something similar for PLA?


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a special desk cleaner that leaves no visible residue on the glass and on the object surface, which is why I love it.

It is well suited for single objects and allows bed temperatures down to 40 degrees, deeper I have not tested yet. So I get distortion-free surfaces and especially in the first 100 layers (0.1mm) no indentations. The stuff evaporates very slowly, so is suitable only if all of the first layer will be printed immediately.

It is very well possible that also are the components of the cleaner Harmful for the human organism, and also interact with the PLA. Have good ventilation is absolutely essential.

It's hard to find alternatives that have similar good properties.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

hey the top of my nozzle well the part that heats up the nozzle has plastic coming out of the top and constantly ruins my prints... what should i do ?? thanks


Sounds like you should disassemble the hot end and re-tighten the connection between the brass pipe and the heater block. The nozzle itself seems tight enough. Try to carefully turn the PEEK part open while holding the heater block with a wrench or something. If they separate, clean the thread from filament and screw the heaterblock and brass/PEEK part back together, firmly but carefully. Hopefully, this will prevent the pressure inside the print head being released anywhere else but through the nozzle.

For quickly cleaning my nozzle from PLA, i heat it up to 170°-180°C., then grab the nozzle with a piece of leather (the raw side out) between my fingers and twist downwards a few times. Works quite well.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 25 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 23 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!