DidierKlein 729
This is for a UM1 then i assume because the paper stuff is said in the bed level wizard on the UM2. And if it was wrong on the UM2 a lot of people would have mentionned it before 
I think the instructions for UM Original leveling are wrong
ORLY paper only for the UM2
Then http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate is WRONG or at least misleading! (yes that is the correct capitalization when trying to get attention! :-P )
From:
"Now we level the bed. Before we do anything, turn on your Ultimaker. With your software, or with your UltiController, move the printhead to the home position. What is the distance between your nozzle and the build platform? There should be as much room as the thickness of a regular piece of paper. About 0.1mm. "
Now, the remaining instructions do seem to have you level and adjust to 0 gap but the above is misleading at best.
It should really be rewritten to say something to the effect of: For this leveling process, there should be much room as the thickness of a regular piece of paper. About 0.1mm. However, upon completion of this process is there will be NO gap between the bed and nozzle in the home position when properly leveled and adjusted".
Now, the remaining instructions do seem to have you level and adjust to 0 gap but the above is misleading at best.
That's like saying that the instructions from IKEA are misleading because your table is lying half assembled on the floor since you decided to stop reading the instructions half way...
Your analogy would be valid if you added a forum and a second product where a half assembled on the floor is a valid end state.
Here the problem is if you read these forums, you see one product leveled using a piece of paper and then go to the instructions for another product that starts out the leveling instructions with something that could be misread as saying you do the same thing using a piece of paper.
A reasonable person could conclude that two products from the same manufacturer with the similar purpose have the same calibration procedures.
Another complicating factor is that the calibration instructions are separate from the assembly instructions and don't appeared to be referenced by the assembly instructions.
Thus it would be reasonable to end up searching the forums for this information, finding the instructions for the other product, assuming they apply to the product they purchased and have that further reinforced by the instructions are found later that start off seeming to say that the nozzle distance should be about a piece of paper away from the bed.
Even more so when you consider it takes WEEKS to get the product so people often access the forums to get up to speed while waiting.
Or I guess I'm just stupid and it can't possibly be due to unclear instructions and communications via the forums.
That's a pretty old page... and does not mention the use of Cura anywhere.
- 4 weeks later...
For UM Original:
If your nozzle is cold I still recommend using paper as it gets thicker when it heats up (thermal expansion).
If your nozzle is hot I recommend turning the 4 screws 1/8 turn to compensate for the paper thickness.
@anon4321 - I added "UM Original" to your title to clarify. Also I changed the all caps as it seemed a little too emotional.
For people new to the printer, using paper gets you "close enough" with the default .3mm first layer in Cura. As you get more experienced you slowly learn the more intricate details like the fact that you have to worry if your nozzle is hot or not, if there is a tiny bit of plastic on the bottom of the nozzle, if your heated bed is hot or not (if you have one) and you have to know to compensate for all of those things plus the thickness of the paper.
BUT I AM EMOTIONAL !!!! j/k no problem. I was largely wrong anyway as others pointed out that the remaining instructions correctly cause a 0 distance to be used.
I stole the gcode from the leveling wizard and print the big square. Then measure it with calibers and adjust so that it is like .25mm (for first layer squish for bed adherence and a tiny amount of shrinkage) and adjust a necessary.
Then I know when the gcode calls for .3mm first layer, it is very near .3mm regardless of the actual tip to bed plus all the thermal expansion and whatnot.
That's impressive - you should get really good results that way. I think you're going to want the new heated bed when it goes for sale - it's much stiffer and more consistent (made from steel) and flatter (glass).
I'm interested to see the bed from UM for the original. I have V2 from Jason HK but it does lack stiffness in both the aluminum and then the glass. I believe his V3 is a mm thicker.
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Daid 306
The instructions say:
'Adjust the front left screw of your printer bed So the nozzle just hits the bed.'
Which is true, as it is at Z0. Not sure where you spotted the paper instructions.
(And I didn't know WRONG is all capitals these days)
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