Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
brett-bellmore

Has anybody tried IGUS Tribo-filament yet?

Recommended Posts

We've sent for a sample of this stuff; It's supposed to be compatable with any 3d printer capable of ABS, but with 40 times the wear resistance. Formulated for making plastic bearings.

http://www.igus.com/wpck/11723/N14_4_1_iglidur_TriboFilament?C=US&L=en

We should have it on hand within a couple of weeks, I'll let you know how it works out.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beware of 3.00mm filament as if it gets to 3.01mm it will likely get stuck in the bowden. Typically manufacturers know this and the filament will be something like 2.80 to 3.00 with the nominal at 2.9mm. Or nominal at 2.85mm. But some manufacturers don't know this and are 2.9 to 3.1mm and these get stuck in the ultimaker bowden and you will have to throw the entire spool away in frustration.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Used the recommended settings, came out the crispest looking print I've gotten yet. Excellent definition, and the surface was noticibly harder than ABS or PLA.

Alas, it was the plastic equivalent of mica, the layers were quite strong, but the print could be split between them, right down to individual layers of plastic. We are now trying a second print, with the head at 230 instead of 220, to see if it remedies this.

I'm thinking you might want a heated enclosure for this material. Delamination seemed to be less of an issue near the heated bed.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We've run off several more parts, and put them into service. As we've pushed the nozzle temperature up, inter-layer adhesion has improved, but it still isn't great, the parts fail in service by delaminating.

I guess the next thing to try, short of a heated enclosure, is printing a full height skirt around the part as we go. Unfortunately our evaluation sample is starting to run low.

Anybody else have experience with this to report?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Final report for now, we've about exhausted our evaluation sample.

We printed a 12mm square solid part, 25mm tall, and periodically tuned the nozzle temperature up, marking the transitions.

Started at 240C, ended up at 260. With each 5 degree increase in nozzle temperature inter-layer adhesion improved. It never reached the point where the part could not be split, but by 255 degrees, the amount of force necessary to split it was comparable to what was needed to cut it in any other direction, so, good enough. It's obviously never going to be anisotropic.

I don't think this tells me that it needs to be printed very hot. Rather, a heated enclosure or full height skirt seems to be called for. Maybe less fan, too. Unfortunately, out of material for now, so we can't test these other variable.

I like the material, though. It's hard and slippery, prints very crisply, and the wear resistance claims seem quite plausible. Think we'll pre-order a roll or two.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey! after some tweaking I got the perfect prints...

Print@ 250° , 110° table, not to fast AND KEEP THE UM COVERED! Covering your machine up makes the part stick extremely well (use 10 mm brim to prevent some corner warping). Layer adhesion is excellent, also only after covering the machine!

Now the shamefull part, I used a fleece blanked to cover the machine. Doesn't look proffesional whatsoever, but does the job neatly!

TL;DR

Hot nozzle, hot bed, slow and fluffie huggie blanky

oh yeah, no fan!

Edited by Guest
Forgot the fan thingie
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the settings that you guys recommended.

I tried printing straight on the glass, but that didn't work. For the second attempt I used blue tape. Success!

1008150621.thumb.jpg.77772430de469e2b9ed5c17a16a3aceb.jpg

I covered the printer with an extra large oven bag. I cut it open along one edge and binder clipped it to the frame. It is pretty open at the top of the back where the bowden tube is.

1007151359.thumb.jpg.7815fac564f90fde51e1a6979e80360f.jpg

This stuff did give me a headache. I moved the printer out of the office for the second attempt. I've been spoiled by PLA and XT.

1008150621.thumb.jpg.77772430de469e2b9ed5c17a16a3aceb.jpg

1007151359.thumb.jpg.7815fac564f90fde51e1a6979e80360f.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!