As Daid says the only part that is at risk is the teflon isolator. It's the white part located just above the nozzle. You can see it without taking anything apart. Even at 240C it tends to deform under pressure of the spring over even just 100 hours of printing apparently. At 270C it will deform that much faster. When it deforms you tend to get underextrusion. You can test for underextrusion by printing this at 230C and anything above 6 or 7mm is fine:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/
You can usually fix the isolator by drilling it out. But that isn't always enough. It won't actually melt until around 300C.
Make damn sure your 3rd fan (at the rear of the print head) is spinning and blowing air before you attempt this!
Also aluminum is a good conductor of heat which might be a problem here if you make a new isolator out of aluminum - you don't want the bowden to melt. So maybe use stainless steel? I don't know. Not sure what temp the bowden can handle.
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070512125006AADRFoq
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Daid 306
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L162
That's the line you want to edit.
Also take note of this edit you have to do to the Arduino environment:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L407
And finally, you are doing this at your own risk. The teflon piece in the hotend is not designed for these temperatures, so that might deform. (You could turn a replacement from alu if you have a lathe, that might prevent problems with the teflon. But no guarantee on that)
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