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zaski

Do you use any surface on top of UM2 glass?

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I am using the bare glass of UM2 as the surface for printing.

Lately have found some scratches on the glass surface, probably caused by tools used to remove the printed parts.

For now I print with PLA only.

Do you use any kind of surface for printing PLA on UM2 on top of bed glass?

zaski

 

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I have been printing PLA at 220 with bed heated to 60 directly on the glass and have found that if you let the print cool thoroughly, no tools are needed to remove it. At least so far I haven't had to deal with any seriously "stuck" prints.

Some use a thin coat of glue that has been watered down, or things like Kapton tape or blue painter's tape.There are a few other products out there being released like buildtak.

 

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Actually my prints stick to the glass very well. And usually I am able to remove printed parts letting the glass cool down. However when I print some parts with a large base I need to use a spatula to remove the part. As a consequence the glass has some scratches on the surface.

I have used some surface materials with other printers like pet, Buildtak, pei, and others. On the UM2 I have never used anything on the glass, just glue stick but rarely.

My concern is not about parts no sticking to the glass, but the scratches on the glass.

 

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Glass, wood, and blue tape are very inexpensive materials. Think of the glass as expendable. For now I recommend you flip the glass.

In countries like Spain where glass windows are common, every town has a glass shop where they will custom cut glass for you for very little money. Cheaper even than wood cut to the same shape.

I use a putty knife to remove the part and I have sharpened the dull blade with a file to make it sharp like a razor at the corner. Also I also recommend waiting for parts to cool before removing.

 

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Once the glass has cooled, put the plate in the freezer for a while, and the part will almost always pop or pull right off the plate. This works even better for large pieces than for small ones, because the total shrinkage is greater.

I also find that the condensation on the glass/glue after removing the plate from the freezer seems to refresh the glue surface, and makes it usable for as many as dozens of prints on the same spot.

 

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Hello all,

i did not read all the posts but i want to share my experience.

I had once a huge problem to take of my print from the bed. Bed cooled down and the model was really, really stucked to the plate. I never wanted and never used any mechanical tools. It took me lot of minutes to take it off and here is the result:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/13169-img-20150113-wa0014/

funny it wasn't even thick. After couple of hours i wanted to print again and wanted first to clean my heat bed because some of the pieces were still on the bed.

I used the master magic tool to clean the plate:

http://online.konzum.hr/images/products/080/08036050l.gif

After i printed the same model again i wanted to try it.... few drops of the glass cleaner and the model went off almost alone from the plate. On smaller prints i only set few drops on my nail and come with my nail to the bottom of the model. Few drops remove the sticked model.

PS: it doesn't matter if you use glue or not.

 

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Do you mean I can replace it with any cheap glass ?

 

Yes. Get the correct thickness. Ultimaker uses tempered glass but that's not necessary. Some people use more expensive pyrex glass. But Ultimaker doesn't. So just get the cheap glass. Have them grind the corners so it isn't sharp.

 

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I use two different types of glue on the heated bed - UHU glue stick and some really cheap no-brand garbage. For smallish models the cheap stuff is perfect, and once the bed is cool the models usually come off very easily. The only thing is that overprinting the glue lasts only a few times, and then things get harder to pull off. So, I usually clean the plate once or twice a week and re-glue when the plate is hot (65C).

The UHU glue I use for bigger models and ABS. The problem is that the parts stick on to the glass like they will never come off. Mechanical removal is fraught with the possibility of slicing off essential parts of one's anatomy, or at least bits I still want to hang on to. So then I resort to freezing the glass and model once the glass is at room temperature, and that works a charm.

 

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