STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

[yoveo 0]

thank you for the fantastic manual! it really is a tremendous improvement. I now also upgraded the e driver. while you still hear retraction quite well, the main noise source now is my print head fan (which is amazing!)

[ataraxis 51]

Thank you, i appreciate it!

[mariuszem 4]

I bought them from watterott. Palced them (without heatsink) for XY. I also did change motor cables -  I want it to be only hardware upgrade.

Vref set to 1,25 (from factor). My UMO is now really quiet. Only fan and retraction makes some noise.

I'm after 2h test print. These are awesome. Thanks @ataraxis.

Now I'm only waiting for GT2 set for next upgrade;)

Edited February 19, 2016 by Guest

[ataraxis 51]

Yeah, Heated bed, GT2, direct drive and SSS - maybe the best Upgrades I installed so far - Have fun!

[mariuszem 4]

All, but direct drive. I print to fast for DD. Waiting for my heated bed:)

[ataraxis 51]

Too fast for direct drive?

[mariuszem 4]

I did misunderstand DD. DD upgrade is not, replacing bowden, but short belts. IS there any instruction, made like this one?

Probably I don't need that. My UMO prints in 80 or 100mm/s looks almost perfect.

Edited February 19, 2016 by Guest

[ataraxis 51]

If you don't face any problems you don't need it But if you are interested, take a look here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-mod-motor-corner-endstop-version

But I really recommend metal bellow couplings as i have installed now (not the ones at the picture). They have zero backlash (but are not so easy to get and very expensive).

Edited February 20, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

sorry for maybe asking stupid questions but I had tooo less sleep the last nights... :-(

@Atraxis, when you write

...

6.2) Toggle "invert axis" everywhere you install the new drivers.

...

you also mean at the feeders?

I´m asking because in Marlin (not the builder!) there is the following note:

#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

So changes at X, Y are clear (= invert) but what to do at E? Also invert?

Maybe it´s already written and I have overseen it, nevertheless any hint appreciated...

[drayson 75]

Ok...

after re-thinking my own post... E are no axes

so... have to go to bed... better idea than soldering...

good night everybody...

[tommyph1208 55]

Ok...

after re-thinking my own post... E are no axes

so... have to go to bed... better idea than soldering...

good night everybody...

 

I was super confused about the whole inverting too in the beginning... The setting you need will, in the end, depend on a number of things: Are you running a geared or direct drive feeder? How did you turn the engine plug in the board? (turning it 180 degrees will reverse the motor) Which stick did you end up using on each axis? (silent stepstick interpret the step signals differently than eg. A4988, so motors will run in the other direction)...

Once you have swapped enough things around enogh times, you kind of loose track of what the setting should be...

However, no harm is done by setting it wrong (your extruder will just run backwards)...

Just try a setting, heat your hotend and try extuding some cm. of filament and look at what happens... If its running the wrong way, either change the invert setting in firmware or turn the motor cable 180 degrees.

[ataraxis 51]

"Invert axis" should be called "invert direction" or something like that... :DThe SSS is generally driving the motor counterclockwise when the A4988 is driving it clockwise and vice versa. In order to fix that,  you have to check "invert axis" if it is unchecked by default or uncheck it, if it is checked by default.

This is true for all the steppers, x y z and e.

But, yes - as Tommy already said, the direction is influenced by more than one factor (geared or not geared feeder, position of the knurled bolt and filament, short belts or direct driven x and y, and so on...).

Howsoever... that's definetly not the reason why you are losing steps, how does it "sound and look" like if you lose it? Have you tried to increase or decrease the voltage? What is the voltage set to at the moment?

Edited February 22, 2016 by Guest

[mariuszem 4]

But in general you have to change your settings while switching to SSS. As default, UM has X-axis inverted, so you have to make it straight. Y, Z and E are straight - you need to invert these. Only if you changed stepper. If you change XY steppers, you got to change X and Y settings only.

My advise: change motor wires, not firmware. You can use your current settings, no new firmware. Only hardware is changing.

Motor wires are in pairs (on bottom of the picture): blue and red (1st coil), green and black (2nd coil). Switch pairs. You should get green, black. blue and red. No firmware change. All set up. Ready to print:)

See colors here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Circuit_complete.jpg

[ataraxis 51]

 

@mariuszem: if you change it for the z axis too, you have to touch the firmware anyway - or use the ulticontroller. But a new firmware is never a bad idea I guess. It's good to understand MARLIN at least a bit...

Edited February 22, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

@mariuszem: if you change it for the z axis too, you have to touch the firmware anyway - or use the ulticontroller. But a new firmware is never a bad idea I guess. It's good to understand MARLIN at least a bit...

 

that´s true... there are so much interesting settings and possibilities for extention...

So I´ll invert my settings also for E to get my UMO sshhhhh... :-)

Guys, thank you for clarification...!!!

Edited February 22, 2016 by Guest

[mariuszem 4]

@mariuszem: if you change it for the z axis too, you have to touch the firmware anyway - or use the ulticontroller. But a new firmware is never a bad idea I guess. It's good to understand MARLIN at least a bit...

 

But Z is not in common use with high speed. XY is probably most common change. I got to tell you @drayson, that E is quite silent. Only retraction is noticable. Believe me, fan is louder than retraction.

@ataraxis, with ulticontroller you can change steps for Z and XY (with gt2 upgrade), so no mess with firmware.

Once I plug my printer to new PC/Mac I upload new firmware with Cura wizard. It is why I do prefer to change motor wires. Steps are ulti-controlable;)

Edited February 22, 2016 by Guest

[ataraxis 51]

i like the idea that I can revert everything and bring it into original condition again - i just don't want to cut, solder or drill anything if not necessary.

sooner or later you will have to understand marlin (and how to build it) at least a bit, and it's not a big deal to make one... until then, to each his own

Edited February 22, 2016 by Guest

[mariuszem 4]

@ataraxis, I like idea to revert everything also. Do you know, that for replacing motor wires U need: unplug connector, take out wires (using niddle), put these in, and plug motor connector back, only. No soldering. no cutting, no drills. Only repluging:)

BTW, I know Marlin well. I just like the idea to have original FW, updated with Cura:)

Edited February 24, 2016 by Guest

[ataraxis 51]

ah yes i see, that's better than cutting and soldering

Edited February 24, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

So, finally installed he SSS Drivers.

The heatsink I got were also to high so I simply cut them to 6mm hight so it fit´s perfectly.

Regarding VRef, I put it to 1.0V and will take a look.

Might be a good idea to share just the VRef you applied to compare

Maybe some kind of table?

Anyone interested?

I started just summarizing the values found in thei thread:

Ataraxis: 0.8V and up

Tommy: around 0.9V @ RUMBA board

tsp42: to get 1,2V I had to adjust the sense resistor to 8,6 kOhm resistance between VRef and Gnd

Starscream83: ???

yoveo: 0.85V

mariuszem: Vref set to 1,25 V

Drayson: 1.0 V

Edited March 6, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

Guys, I got a very strange behavior on my 2nd Extruder...

Silent Step Sticks are in at X, Y, E0 and E1

E0 is fine, but...

When switching on my UMO the second extruder stepper moves forward a small portion moving filament towards the head... I have no idea why...

changed nothing in FW except the direction (invert)...

Any idea???

ataraxis, do you have an idea?

[ataraxis 51]

Hey @drayson,

1) is it always the same movement?

2) Please try the following: Switch the drivers from E0 and E1, is it still E1 that moves at startup?

Edited March 6, 2016 by Guest

[ataraxis 51]

 

@drayson: does it look like this?

 

Edited March 6, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

Hi ataraxis!

Thank you for reply!

@1) is it always the same movement?

=> yes, it´s always the same movement/mount. Looks like in your video

@2) Please try the following: Switch the drivers from E0 and E1, is it still E1 that moves at startup?

=> switched the drivers, it´s still E1 which is moving. So it seems not driver-related.

I crosschecked also my changes in the FW. I only changed "true" vs. "false" in the related lines for X, Y, E0, E1.

Any idea?

Edited March 6, 2016 by Guest

[drayson 75]

Also put in back the old driver at E1 - no movement at power on at all...

so maybe related to the SSS drivers especially at E1...

B.t.w.: myaybe stupid question, but: how did you linked my name in your posts?

Edited March 6, 2016 by Guest