Daid

Ah, that sucks. You should contact the support by email. They can set you up with a new one. (I think it's custom, because the only replacement other people have found where different sizes)

The first problem is most likely that the printer head is empty, you could modify the start.gcode to get more initial extrusion, or enable some more skirt lines. The outlines not touching the infill is most likely a problem with belt tension, it's quite common on the UM and easy to fix with some extra belt tensioners.

Nope, these wooden parts: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6244028047/ Yes, the electronics fan is a bitch, mine starts of very loud and goes silent after 10 minutes.

We can modify the Arduino bootloader, but you need an ISP (You could use another Arduino as an ISP) Most likely the firmware in your machine was still running, but the SD or USB communication crashed. As for the rest of the machine noise, check how much noise the extruder drive is generating by banging against the machine, just lift if off while printing for a change. Some padding there saves a lot of noise. Add some padding on the feet, and change the X/Y motor holders from the wooden things to normal spacers. All this combined and you should have a pretty silent machine.

Actually, this burns up your Peek, as temperature regulation stops and then the 40W heater pushes the temperature well over 300C, I've seen it happen and it gives a nasty smell. The hardware watchdog should protect against this, but we cannot enable it because of the stupid Arduino bootloader.Oh, and the "plug length" in the teflon is about 9mm above the brass. That's quite a lengthy plug you can create. I personally think that active cooling just adds a complex part that makes more noise and wears down or breaks easier. Also, the temperature transition of the PLA going into the hotend is important. Read above when I posted about stainless steel. Making the upper part too cold and PLA turns into glue when it hits metal.

My upgrade beta kit came without heater/temperature sensor. So you'll have to re-use those. And those are the most expensive parts of the hotend. You could save the Peek and Alu block, but I think they won't offer that option to keep order assembly easier. (unscrewing the V1 brass from the Alu is a bitch anyhow) A V1 you mean?Seeing that there will be a surplus of V1 hotends soon now, maybe people who think they can work with V1 hotends (mine work fine for example) will want to have them to make dual extrusion? You currently cannot make dual extrusion with a V1 and V2 combined, unless you make new wooden parts for the top and bottom.

Martijn said they will be using different clips, my beta still had the normal white+blue clip. So we'll see what ships with the actual V2 hotend. They tested this, because of the gap between the PEEK and the heater block, this problem is gone. As less heat is transferred up to the brass.Like I said, they tested threading the PEEK. It had it's own share of problems. Remember that they tested this new design on 25 machines, of which at least 6 where running producing Ultimaker Robots in mass production.

While I didn't need strength, we made a water tight connector last Tuesday. It took us 4 tries. The best settings in Cura where: 240C, 0.1mm layers, 0.4mm walls, 100% infill, 1.5mm retraction, 40mm/s, filament diameter of 2.7mm With 4.5mm retraction we had tiny holes in the result, we did get strings with 1.5mm retraction, but better some strings then losing water.

Actually, they tried that. But there are problems with it. First, it's pretty tough to do, making construction harder. Secondly, the PFA tube gets soft at pretty low temperatures, so the connection is not as strong as you would expect. Also, with the V2 design you don't have to replace the bowden tube, while with a threaded bowden tube you also need a new tube.But with any upgrade, there are people going to say they should have done it better and differently. That's natural. Something else they tried was making the upper brass part from stainless steel instead. Which is a very good insulator, but it proved to be a too good insulator. Causing problems with PLA sticking to it and jamming up the machine.

On monday they said "next week". And what kind of details are you looking for? I did a writeup when I got my beta version, but I held back my blog post until today. So you can read my first impressions from 2 months ago: http://daid.eu/blag/2012/08/31/ult ... v2-hotend/

Is the 20mm cube about 40mm in height? That could mean you have a problem with the micro-stepping. You should check the little jumpers on the Ultimaker electronics. These guys: Check them with this photo: The Z should have 2 connected and 1 open jumper.

The "tower" setting of Skeinforge does this. But, as always, the problem is in the details. The main problem is, you have to ensure that your printer head does not hit the other printer part. And we don't only have the nozzle, we also have the fan shroud and 4 bolts there. You also have to make sure, that when moving from printed "tower" to the next part, you don't bump into other printed parts. It would be quite difficult to get right, and as you can expect, SF doesn't get it right. It works in the simple case of 2 towers, but when you go to 3 towers you already could get into trouble.

On this point I can comment with: I have both a V2 and a V3 bolt in my Dual extrusion setup, the V3 is in the 2nd extruder, and I haven't found a reason to swap them around. I do think the V3 is an upgrade, but I don't see it as a hugely important upgrade if your V2 works well.

There is the V1 V2 and V3 bolt. The V1 is rare, it has horizontal groves in it like the Makerbot drive gears, but with a much smaller diameter. The V2 is the most common, it has diagonal groves and works pretty well. However, if it grinds your filament you will have to clean it. The V3 is the latest bolt. It also has diagonal groves, but is cleaner cut. It also has a quick-release mechanism so it is easier to assemble/disassemble and clean.

I am a bit scared of feature-creep. But I have some ideas how to add this, and for example, a pause on reaching a certain layer. (So you can switch colors, or insert objects into your print) But I really need to be careful not to create an interface with 10.000 options on it. There is the github issue tracker: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues Which can be used for both bugs and feature requests. Once I start working at Ultimaker I will have more time to add new features.

There is no setting for it. But you can adjust the start code a bit to trick the machine. The current start code says: G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0 If you adjust this to: G92 X0 Y0 Z-7 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0 Then it will think the bed at the highest position is Z-7, so the print will be 7mm in the air.

I'm also using the V2 bolt without problems, however, I could not extrude flexible PLA reliably. But on the UltiEvening aabannink was printing with flexible grey PLA without issues. He was using a V3 bolt, so the V3 does look like an improvement.

I think it's this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094

If it goes to the "stopped working" state, it is most likely calculating the normals and sending the resulting 3D file to your 3D video card. Make sure you are using 12.08, as older versions where WAY slower at this point, and use too much memory. The model you has 1.920.000 faces. This is quite heavy on Cura. But it should load eventually if you wait long enough, but I think it will still be slow after that. Also, slicing will take a long time, so be warned on that.

96MB is huge, it might just take longer then you are expecting, as python is not super fast and can take a while to load large files. If you can, try saving the STL file as binary, this loads a lot faster then an ascii STL file.

Protospace (fablab) charges 10c per gram of final printed material. This is just to pay for the material I think, as you operate the machine yourself in a fablab.

The weight in Cura is an estimate, but the length should be pretty accurate, because the length is the actual dimension that is used to communicate with the printer. The weight is calculated with the filament diameter and the density of the material. This density is a bit of a guess and could vary. I've never actually checked the weight calculation, but the length seems pretty accurate when I used it.

Sounds like a MINTEMP or MAXTEMP trigger. Which stops the motion of the axes, and stops the heater from working. This happens if the wires going to the temperature sensor are not properly screwed in, make sure those small screws are really tight, and make proper electrical connection.

Easiest solution would be the V2 hotend. It will be released on the Ultimaker shop next week. I just installed one of these new hotends today, on a machine which started to have plugging problems. It has been running for 6 hours now without problems.

Is printing from NetFabb stable? I didn't think it was. I think the recommended action is slicing with NetFabb and then printing it with PrintRun. Cura installs a 250000 baud firmware by default, so you need to configure PrintRun or NetFabb to use that baudrate. The other way around, Cura will work fine with a NetFabb capable firmware. As the baudrate in Cura is auto-detected by default.