Daid

Actually, with Cura, the 0.6mm top always seems to get a 100% infill, no matter your layer thickness (it calculates the amount of top/bottom layers from that setting and your layer thickness) It was a bit of an experiment, but it works really well. Even at 0.05mm layers you seem to need about 12 layers of solid infill to get a good closed infill. But at 0.2mm layers you only need 3.

It's a mechanical problem, not a software problem. (I guarantee you this) The position of the head is not moving as instructed, this usually happens during fast moves where there is more chance to go something wrong. It could be the small belts from the motors to the axes that are skipping over the pulleys, make sure the those belts are thigh by unscrewing the motors a bit, and pushing them down. Then screw them very tight. It could also be a lose pulley, make sure all pulleys are secured to the axes. It could also be too little motor power, but this is very rare these days, check the other 2 causes first.

The Ultimaker is not designed for 1.75mm filament. But with a thinner bowden tube and a different quick connect you might get away with it. I've seen some great results with 1.75mm filament (with a different hotend), too bad it's about twice as expensive as 3mm filament.

I think I know where it goes wrong. Could you try removing the {filename} tag from the start code to see if that solves it? I thought I tested that... but looks like it is causing problems with none-acsii chars.

If you print with USB, you will run into buffering problems, causing stutter. But if you print from SD card with an UltiController, you will do fine. It does take a insane amount of time to slice something that large. You can try slicing with RepG or Cura without having an UltiMaker. If it slices, it should print with the UltiController.

Most likely you are under-extruding. It's quite common, because it still gives perfect outside surfaces. What you could do is adjust your steps per E, set it a bit higher, this should increase the extrusion amount.

Most likely the corners are curling up, a better cooling shroud or a lower printing temperature could help.

It's this part: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6147759950/ You could also use 2 small spacers. The rev3 lasercut files are on thingiverse. There are a bunch of custom machined parts in the Ultimaker, so those might be hard to source elsewhere. But, yes, I think you can save a few 100 bucks by self sourcing it. You could save even more money by building a prusa mendel, or even more by building a self sourced printrbot (or the Wallace as it's also called). It's all a question of what you want. For the UM price, you get quality parts and good support. Not to mention you fund their research into upgrades and new machines.

But it's not that mentality that created Cura. While I am limited to what SF can do right now. I can look and see if there is something I could change to fix it. And the feature you praise Cura for was already present in SF, except for the fact that is was bugged, and named very obscurely. I only found it after I was halfway finished with my own implementation. All the more reason why I want to see why Kisslicer does a better job.As for the heated bed. A 20x20cm heated bed is huge, and hard to warm up. If I would want to add a heated bed to my setup, I would create a 12x12cm bed to start with. This should require less power and thus makes it easier to handle. As for an UM heated bed kit. No idea about that one, didn't spot any on my last visit there.

First off, that looks awesome. A really nice print. As for the top/bottom. I see some slight variations in the amount of fill, your filament might have an uneven thickness. Also, the top and bottom have slightly too little material, you could increase your "steps per E" setting a bit to compensate for this.

You need what we call "support structures". Simply put, it support prints a bunch of thin lines under you model to support higher parts, later you break off the support structure and you'll end up with an "impossible" model. Example with support: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120418 ... .small.jpg After support removal: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120418 ... .small.jpg Not sure where it is located in RepG, but in Cura it's a simple checkbox in simple mode, and you need to select "exterior only" support in normal mode.

Do you have proof for that? So far all Kisslicer has been giving me is "segmentation fault" on startup.

I hate to play the Cura card. Especially to people who payed big bucks for Netfabb.

Most likely the "start code" of Netfabb doesn't play very well with the firmware you have on your machine. (No experience with Netfabb here, so no idea what the default start code is)

You would need to hack the firmware. The first item should be quite easy. The 2nd is a bit more work, and the 3th you shouldn't attempt unless you are a well seasoned firmware hacker with lots of experience. https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin

M92 E86588.800000 That's not good. That should be M92 E865.888 Check your preferences, the "Steps per E" should have a dot in it, no comma. It explains the insane extruder speed you are getting.

I don't recommend that PEEK replacement part idea, as I think that PLA sticks like crazy to PEEK. One idea is a teflon conector piece, should be quite simple to machine: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_0527.small.JPG Other then that, the idea is the same as from AM001. Teflon has the advantage of being slippery, so if plugs form inside of the teflon you can push them out. So you don't get real plugs then. (Also, the offical UM PEEK is 50% PEEK 50% fiberglass)

I always have a thick (0.3mm) initial layer. This makes it easier to remove the objects from the bed. I think your start Z is slightly to low, as the first layers seem squished. But those prints are looking very nice. Are you happier now with your machine?

Plugs at 230? I've printed at 250C at the beginning, without plugging problems. (the wiki recommended that back then). However, you might get plugs in combination with retraction... I usually print at 220C, when I need a lot of retraction and small things I print at 210C, when I want to speed up, I print at 230C.

Nope, that's not normal.I see your results are improving. great. Now, on to get those nipples to print correctly. It's not impossible to print something that small, or even smaller. It's just that you haven't dialled in your settings as you want them yet. Example of what is possible: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120418 ... .small.jpg First, retraction. Put it on 4.5mm at 50mm/s. This will help a lot with the strings. Next, the temperature, I know I said use 230C. And with 230C you are no longer getting jams I assume. It's time to lower this then. Try 220C first, if that works, try 210C. Also, the "minimal layer time" and "minimal feedrate" settings, you might need to tweak these depending on your temperature. IMHO the defaults in Cura are not really correct yet and could use an update. The minimal layer time causes the printer to slow down, up to the point where it hits the minimal feedrate. However, it still goes quite slow at the minimal feedrate, causing layers below it to meld due to the heat from the nozzle. The hole-calibration test piece also shows some signs of over-extruding, this could cause your minor slipping you see.

Nice :-) I agree with your suspicion: I could not find anything that could explain a huge temperature offset, except for bad chips or bad connections. But one of the common "tests" is to see where it extrudes right. For RepRaps they use a lower temperature with PLA then we do. I think this is not because we have bad temperature accuracy, I think this is because or hot-zone is smaller and our print speeds are higher. We need more temperature to get the PLA to meld quick enough. (You should have seen the shock on the face of some Prusa mendel users when I told them I was extruding PLA at 230C)

I sourced my white clips from Ultimaker. (indirectly) I used 4 of them on my machine, as I have dual extrusion and placed clips on the top and bottom plates. I don't think machining the brass like suggested is an improvement, because it increases the contact area between the brass and the tube. Which means more temperature gets to the tube, and the tube gets soft when it gets hot. The bowden tube is listed on the UM store, but you need to use the search function. But it doesn't have part numbers. That indeed is bad PLA, 2.7-3.0 is quite a bit of variation, even if you would manage to get it to extrude right, it will create uneven prints (it will most likely jam at the extruder before you get to that point)

It's the switch itself, it's rated 2A, which is about the current flowing when the heater is on and the steppers are powered. So it's quite prone to failure if you have bad luck. You can get switches in any form and size, getting an extract replacement would be quite hard. But if you feel like having some fun, you could replace it with a rocket safety switch: http://www.reichelt.de/Kippschalter/GUA ... ARD+R17-10 Just make sure it's rated for a minimum of 2A and you'll be fine.

Where did you find the link? The Cura home page: http://daid.github.com/Cura/ has a MacOS download button, which links to the install instructions (as installing on MacOS is not straight forward yet)

That's where you started to go wrong. I made the same mistake (even after months, and people calling me an "expert" and everything). You had a plug starting, right at that point. Your bowden tube has moved up a bit, a plug starts forming, and then you need more force to push PLA trough it. Machinging the brass? Where does it say that and who added it? It's a bad suggestion IMHO. Drilling the end of the tube will make it worse, as it makes it easier to form plugs. When the tube is too tight, it compresses at the end, making it harder to filament to get trought, and making it easier for a plug to push the tube up. The white clip? Did you replace this clip? IMHO, it's the source of most troubles, it's not gripping enough. Stick to 50mm/s until you have everything in working order. I still print at 50mm/s to get the best quality (but I have play in my linear bearings)Print at 230C until you are sure that everything works, ignore the people that say you should lower the temperature, that will only make things worse. A lower temperature will put more pressure on the tube, same for higher speeds. 3.72? That's quite thick for 3mm filament that should be between 2.9 and 3.0. Variations of more then 0.1mm won't work with the current design (they are working on an upgrade to fix this) To bad the pictures are not viewable for me unless I buy a larger monitor. It's the nr1 issue, I won't deny that. But if it was plaguing everyone, then I wouldn't have time to reply to any of them. (and I didn't have a problem until I added dual extrusion, which I solved pretty quick) Sorry, but the replicators are also not without problems, even pre-assembled. The price I cannot argue about, but it largely depends on where you live. Shipping a replicator from the US to Europe is not cheap, shipping an Ultimaker kit the other way around is also not cheap. It's PFTA, a form of teflon. So yes, it's slippery, that's the idea. Filament needs to slide trough it.But, most likely, you are having plugs. Caused by the bowden tube not staying in place. I'm seeing something strange on one of your photos, where you look straight into the PEEK part on the brass. The brass tube end should be level with the ridge of the PEEK. Could be an optical illusion. See: The tube should make a straight connection. And be kept firmly in place. I'm using 2 white clips on my tube to keep everything in place. One of the problems is the white clip, first off, it's too close to the hot area, so it can get soft, causing everything to fail. You can put it on top of the printer head if you move around some stuff. (The unreleased beta hotend kit has it on top instead of the bottom). Secondly, some white clips seem to have bad teeth, where the metal is pushed too far into the plastic. (The 2 people doing Ultimaker support are trying their best, but they also don't know everything)