Daid

I think they ship twice a week, so you can expect a few days of variation in the shipping because of that. But I know how annoying the wait can be. (I had exactly 6 weeks lead time)

I think you can compare the Ultimaker to the early computers, where people did functional stuff with them, but where also tinkering a lot. I'm using my Ultimaker purely for fun. However I do know some people that do workshops with them. It's good to have contacts like this, because in case it breaks down, you can borrow other machines. And have more knowledge around to fix it.

The default marlin settings would limit you to 250mm/s anyhow. But that's still insanely fast printing. But cooling settings and acceleration will prevent you from hitting this speed quite often.

Personal experience, It took me a bit of work to get it running initially. More work then you would expect from a fully commercial machine, but the amount of work I would expect from a kit. Now my machine is buzzing along nicely, with a pretty high printing success rate. I did have a 10 hour print detaching itself from the bed after 7 hours yesterday, which was a bit of a shame! But I printed 2 days straight at different location before that, with only 1 failed print. I have never used a stratasys, but I expect it requires less fiddling initially. Kinda "you get what you pay for" I think.

Is that 350mm/s? :shock:

After canceling you can jog the Z axes with the jog menu (or just the Z buttons if you use PrintRun) Not sure what you mean by "move", if you mean moving objects around on the bed, the "machine center" settings do this. Not very userfriendly, working on that. If you mean placing multiple objects on a single print, checkout the project planner. (It's in the file menu of normal mode)

Even with the white clip installed the correct way, sometimes the tube could pop. I know, because I actually assembled 2 machines with this problem already, both with someone from UM present. (First my dual extrusion setup, later another machine for someone else) The V2 does remove the plugging problem, even if you have a bowden pop. So it's much easier to fix then.

Doesn't matter, someone might find a use for it, or use it as inspiration for their own variation. Soildworks should be able to export .step or .iges files, which makes it possible for other people to modify your design quite easy.

Friend of mine thought he had his printrbot running at 80mm/s, but the firmware was limiting it to 60mm/s. Also, acceleration values of most printers are lower, so the same "top" speed doesn't always mean the same printing time.

That's called a "sparse infill" you shouldn't be needing anything special for that, as the software generates those lines for you inside of solid sections. So what you need is a solid model. What you see in the photo is just a solid cylinder from a CAD tool. (without the top printed)

Also depends a bit on how width you make your lines, 0.4 lines at 0.3 layers caused problems for me, but I think you could push out 0.6mm lines with 0.4mm layers just fine. But you'll get limited by the maximum amount of volume of plastic you can heat and push out quite fast then.

(I don't see any bad English) The teflon insulator won't fit in your V1 hotend setup, because the wooden plates are slightly different for this part. The V2 hotend also adds a few other changes that help against plugs and other problems. It also comes with a better version of the white clip, which grips better then the old version.

The firmware update is good (the supplied firmware is quite new but very stable) On Mac the wizard fails for some reason, not sure why yet. I've had more reports. Just skip the wizard for now.

Thanks! I've had this report before, but without the problematic STL files, and the movie helps in showing what goes wrong. The problem seems to be related to the "all at once" mode. Which seems to add a G1 Z0 command near the end. Normally this move is added to move above all the other prints, with a higher Z value, but with the "all at once" it seems to move to Z0.

I don't think your head will be damaged. I managed to do the same when I got my printer half a year ago. It's still printing fine. And this was with a V1 hotend, so it doesn't depend on the hotend used. You simply should avoid the far end of the Y axes at Z0. It's only a few mm I think. And it might depend on your fan shroud (there are many designs of these on thingiverse)

It's a bit different then that. Their license doesn't claim ownership, but it does gives them certain rights that are "dodgy", like using the models without attribution, even if the selected license requires it. This license is also not new, as the internet-archive shows it had this claim in it before. People just noticed it now. It would be wise to wait for a response from Makerbot.

If you are still using RepG, dump it. Use Printrun (Pronterface), which does a lot better in buffering commands, solving a few issues that RepG has with sending GCode. Stay away from Windows Vista. My laptop runs it, and I have had my share of problems with it related to USB printing. 250000 baud, the default in Cura's firmware, gives good communication results. Older firmwares where running at lower baudrates, and less baud is less messages per time, which results in a higher chance of buffering problems.

Stuttering in my experience is buffer underrun problems with the USB communication. Which is another reason why I like SD printing with the UltiController a bit better.

Yes, you can adjust the firmware to get the correct movement.

The defaults of the builder are good. About the PID: The tooltip is older, the new settings work better. About the max feedrates: It's a bit of a preference, normally you never hit the max feedrate of 45 (45mm per second of filament extrusion?!?). But some people prefer "unlimited" which is the 500k. The UltiController (as produced from the shop by Ultimaker) and the UltiPanel (beta versions, and version on thingiverse) are slightly different in how the rotation knob is wired. Other then that they are the same. The main difference is that the menus will rotate the wrong way around if you use the wrong panel type. If you enable the UltiController or UltiPanel, then the "Enable SD support" checkbox no longer matters, it's always compiled with SD support. The firmware shipped with Cura is build with the Marlin builder, at a point where Marlin was very stable. This firmware was build with the defaults of the builder, except that I also turned the UltiController on. I also tested that firmware for 3 weeks before I shipped it in Cura. And many people are using this exact firmware now. The Marlin builder is currently running newer firmware then that, with a few new features like long-filename support. So there is the potential of problems, but so far it has been running stable on my machine.

This is a hardware issue, the filament drive mechanism (sometimes called extruder) is turning, but because of the speed the filament is slipping a bit. You'll have to tighten the tension bolt a bit most likely. But not so much that it grinds the filament. Especially at higher speeds, this gets very important to get right. Upgrading to the Berho extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 helps in this aspect, as it can put more pressure on the filament without causing grinding.

Cura shows the last temperature at the time just before it starts printing, the PID that controls the temperature hasn't really stabilized at that point yet. So there is still a bit of an offset at that point in time. The UltiController keeps updating the temperature during printing, so it will show the actual printing temperature. (I'm working on an update that keeps requesting the temperature even during printing, but I need to be sure not to disrupt the printing process itself)

These questions are easy ;-) (diagnosing printer problems, that's where it gets difficult ) You can print it with PLA without issues, it's designed to be printable, so no steep angles or crazy bridges.

Could be that the filament is grinded down (a hole was cut in the filament by the extruder drive). It can also be that the gear is turning but the bolt is not, but that's rare and should cause a lot more problems. (still easy to check) If it's grinding, then you could have a bit too much pressure on your filament (by the tension knob), you can also have filament with varying diameter (thick or thin sections that cause the problem)

I've replaced my fan shroud with the printable stock version, which looks the same as the stock, but is printable and doesn't unfold or shag like the stock. My dual extrusion setup has the same issue, and I found the stock fan shroud pretty good on airflow actually.