gr5

After briefly looking through the images, I'm not sure if this behavior is intended or not. I think maybe it is. Anyway it's okay either way as there are employees that do triage. So really the best thing to do is to log this on github. To do so, go here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues You must have a github account (they are free) and then click "New Issue". You will be guided. Maybe include the best photos from above. Maybe link to this thread but it's long and gets off topic so I'd summarize with images once again. If you could create a drastically simpler model that shows the problem that would be good for everyone involved.

I'd call your reseller or contact UM directly for support. At the top of this page on the right click the 9 dots icon, then click "support". Then near the top click "submit a request". Alternatively you could look over this guides: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/6426059583899-Clearing-the-Mergers If you follow those steps and then examine the filament detector carefully you might notice something e.g. a wire fell off. But really, contact support. They know this stuff really well and I don't have a MS so I have no clue. Even if you are out of warranty, support is free. It's only if you need parts and also out of warranty that you will have to pay for something.

There are tons of possibilities. humid filament is unlikely at this point. I don't recommend buying more PVA. If you are going to buy something consider buying "breakaway" filament (if your model can work with that kind of support - some models have too many inner caves where you wouldn't be able to remove the breakaway). Well it seemed to print much better for the second part. So I'm thinking the filament wasn't all the way installed. Before installing the filament I always cut it to a point using wire cutters. I do two angled cuts to make a point. I always choose the MOVE command in the printer menu and then left the lever on the feeder, slide the filament all the way in, wait for it to get above 160C and then start to use the down arrow in the move feature. While doing this I feel the filament on the back so I can tell if it is truly moving or stuck. Once the nozzle is at temp you can make a zig/zag in the filament near the nozzle and then see how quickly you can get it to reach the bed. If it can reach the bed in 5-8 seconds you are fine. Even 10 seconds isn't too bad. If it takes more than 12 seconds then something is probably wrong. Let's assume it's fine at this point. Well now we also know the filament is fully loaded so try the print again. There is a bug in some versions (all versions?) of the firmware when you abort a print or certain special cases (calibration test?) where it retracts the filament a bit too much and if you abort twice in a row the filament doesn't get into the nozzle until you've been printing a few minutes. I'm thinking either you didn't load fully or it's that bug. The above tests should allow you to distinguish between several different types of problems (be sure filament extrudes quick enough, be sure it's installed all the way).

no idea but you can have both versions installed at the same time. I have about 6 versions of cura installed. There are over 500 features in cura. Which feature are you referring to exactly? There is a place where you can list multiple angles for "skin" (I think? Or is that only for infill?) which are top and bottom layers but not considered "infill". I think you can do this. You list a bunch of angles like 0,45,90,45 and it cycles through these angles but you can just do a single angle like "27" and it does all the skin at that angle. I think. I've not played with it in a while.

It has been a while since I did these letters. I think I did either 0.1, 0.15, or 0.2mm layer height (and only a single layer) for the red "part" and then as a completely separate part I did the white part which indeed was identical and flat and ignored what letter(s) were being printed in red before hand. The white part was almost certainly 0.3mm thick on the bottom layer. One advantage of having it as 2 separate prints is you can use a razor to cut away any strings/traces or even decide to clean the bed and start over. Also it's important to use a dark(ish) color. Red worked great. Black will work great but yellow probably wouldn't work well. Also the part itself needs to be white - otherwise some of the color will show through.

Okay so I was wrong. Someone does still sell 3mm filament. They must be idiots. I'd stay away from them. It says 3.00 +/- .03mm. It might work. It might not. If it hits 3.05mm I think it might get stuck in your bowden. Sounds like you are looking on amazon so try this search on amazon: tough pla 2.85mm It will get you some cheap pla.

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With .2 layer height you are printing double the volume of plastic so any underextrusion issues will be more obvious. This is severe underextrusion. I don't know a lot about the connect but here's my list of causes of underextrusion for the UM2+ (non connect) Some of the issues you can eliminate almost instantly (like maybe the air in your printing room is NOT hotter than typical). I'd particularly try to isolate if the issue is with the feeder or the hot end. Instructions for that below. If you are using existing profiles then you can probably ignore issue 1 although it sounds like you did mess with layer height. Still, often you can double the layer height of a profile without having to do anything else. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.

The UM2 head is a pretty good print head. It's too bad they changed it out. You can get chinese versions on aliexpress. That's probably what I would do. Super cheap. But the quality can be pretty bad. It's hit or miss but the price is so cheap maybe you don't care.

Well you changed the BB core so I think it's probably the PVA itself. I think it got wet. Maybe even before it arrived to you. It would help if you could show the first layer better. Also, do you have the Material Station? keeping PVA dry So PVA is very different from PLA. It's harder to print. It doesn't stick to itself so amazingly well like PLA. keep it with 1/4 liter (one cup) of dessicant at all times. I NEVER leave it overnight on the printer, etc. One sign the PVA is too wet is it snaps and pops and hisses and you can actually often see steam coming out at the nozzle tip while it prints. The PVA ends up being snowy instead of clear because it has tiny steam bubbles embedded (hence the snowy look). If it's only a "little" wet you won't notice the noise or steam but it will still be snowier than usual. When PVA is wet like this it expands too much and so it overextrudes. Enough to get lots of stringing and other issues (sometimes it doesn't stick well to the print bed). It's easy to fix with heat. In cura look up how many meters of PVA are needed for your print. Unspool that much, place on the heated bed, put the spool on top (no need to cut the PVA). Put a towel over all that and another blanket on top of that and heat at 65C for 4 to 8 hours. That should be enough to get you going on your print. To dry the whole spool, dry it for 24-48 hours (not necessarily all at once). Going forwards keep it in a 2 gallon zip lock with LOTS of desiccant. And recharge the desiccant every month. I buy it in liter jugs and store it in a container with a lid that stops the desiccant from coming out but allows air exchange. I use color changing desiccant that can be reheated (dried) in the microwave.

99% of 3mm filament isn't 3mm. It's actually 2.95 or 2.85 or 2.9. 3mm is too big for the bowden on the S5. It will occasionally get stuck when it gets up to 3.05mm or 3.1mm. But 2.95 filament +/- .05mm is fine. So you should be fine with "3mm" filament as long as it isn't actually more than 3mm. I don't think anyone makes 3mm filament anymore. There was one large chinese company selling that but it clogged in all the printers so they eventually realized to make it at a slightly smaller size. You could mess with the flow if it's truly 2.9mm. The flow should be reduced by a factor of (2.85/2.9)^2 but really it's too small to matter much.

You have to choose a printer. Just choose any non-networked printer. The differences between printers are too subtle to matter which one you choose if you are just testing out how your part will slice.

https://ultimaker.com/learn/get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors/

Are they under warranty? A lot of things can go wrong in shipping. Perhaps the wifi antenna or something fell out and just needs to be reconnected. I'm sure you can find someone to buy the S5s.

Excellent. Now you need to worry about extruder steps/mm. If you are really lucky, your extruder has exactly the same number of steps/revolution than the Ultimaker extruder. If not then it is probably off by 2X. Tell the printer to extrude exactly 10mm and see if the filament moved exactly 10mm. If it extrudes 2X too much you can fix it in cura by using 50% flow. If it extrudes 2X too little, you can fix it in cura by using 200% flow.

https://ultimaker.com/learn/get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors/

Thanks! I fixed my link above.

On a side wall the left/right resolution is much better than .1mm. It's the servo step size. The up/down resolution is whatever your layer height is. When printing on a top surface (if sticking out) then the font has to be wider than the trace of filament extruded which can only be a little bit smaller than the nozzle size. If the font is embedded down into the part then the corners of for example the right angle corners of a T will be rounded roughly by the nozzle diameter: so a 0.8mm nozzle will have 0.4mm radius inner corners. .4mm >> .1mm although it's not completely an apples to apples comparison. Maybe a better example is lithophanes (google image search it). They are MUCH better resolution when printed on the side of a wall. Anyway it's just my personal experience that walls are better.

Did you do "digital factory reset"? That fixes many network issues. Not sure what the "digital factory step" is but try the reset thing. Do you have a home network or a business network?

Actually I think it prints much better on a side wall. Much cleaner looking text. Also if you make text go INTO the part instead of sticking out - that will make it so you can use much thinner/smaller fonts.

Missing skin is a common problem with cura 5.4. Try adjusting the "maximum resolution". Check what you have it set to, move it to 0.5 or beyond. If that fixes the issue, then it should be fixed in the next cura release.

I don't have a MS but look at these 2 articles: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/6426059583899-Clearing-the-Mergers https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/10455611615387-Clearing-the-Decoupler

If you have weird network errors, always try a digital factory reset. Even though it's not obvious, this fixes all manner of network related issues and is probably easier than upgrading or downgrading firmware version. I'm guessing the network downgrade did something that is also done in the DF reset and that's what fixed the issue. What version of firmware did you have before upgrading to 8.2.1?

Also there are nice videos showing you how to take the head apart: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039150672-Printhead

There are also more difficult ways to downgrade your firmware if you can't do it the "normal" way which involve opening up the bottom of the printer and a uSD card. So keep that in mind if you ever need to downgrade on some future date and it won't let you do it the "normal" way.