gr5

Sander has the usa plan but it probably costs ultimaker $1 per text so don't make him text me makerfaire nyc - october 1,2 http://makerfaire.com/new-york/ My favorite 30 second promo video for world makerfaire: https://vimeo.com/70982386 My own makrefaire promo video - 2 min 44 seconds: sander is visible with his hipster glasses and beard behind the display as it comes down around 2:11.

You changed many things - you changed firmware which does heat differently - especially the bed temperature algorithm which draws more current in some versions of the firmware and actually changes the power supply voltage and messes up nozzle temperature. You also may have changed the objects you print - parts that take less time per layer can show up these overextrusion errors more than larger parts. You also changed filament. Some filaments are more sensitive to temperature change. Just turning the printer on it's side may have changed the way the ball bearings in the two vertical Z bearings sit.

Did you watch the temperature during a print?

I don't think it's the bed. It could be the bed - if it's the bed you will see very thick overextruding layers occasionally where the bed didn't move as far down as it should have. More likely you are getting "raised edges" where the nozzle hits the pillars. Raised edges are caused because PLA acts like a liquid rubber band - like snot or mucus - as it comes out of the nozzle. In the first few milliseconds it cools a bit and shrinks but is still liquid and it pulls on itself. Like a liquie rubber band. So when printing pillars it is pulling inward. If the pillars are not perfectly vertical the problem is much worse on the overhang edge and the problem is cumulative. For pillars that are only 10X taller than they are wide the solution is to get the parts to stick so well the bed that they will never ever. Never! knock over. You should be able to pick the entire machine up by a 1cm diameter pillar if you do things right. Can you supply a photo of these pillars? If they are extra small - say 3mm diameter and 100mm tall then I don't think there is much you can do. Maybe print these as a separate part? Again a pillar would help. anyway - how do you get your parts to stick like hell to the glass? Below is my standard answer but the main issue is getting the nozzle closer to the glass (#6 below). The leveling procedure levels the nozzle too far from the glass so just rotate the 3 leveling screws half rotation counter clockwise to raise the be .25mm. lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off. again please provide a photo.

Usually it's a loose power cable. It is supposed to snap in and if you pull on it then it should not come out. If your power cable doesn't fall out easily then alternatively it's probably a bad power supply. I know they are expensive like €100 but it may be your only option. Although if it is only a month old maybe you can get a new one for free. Talk to your support people and refer to this thread.

I'm going. Every year I ask for people to text me when they come to the Ultimaker booth. Every year I miss 1/3 of the people. I spend a lot of time at the booth but murphy's law says pretty much 100% we will not see each other if you don't text me. So send me a private message and I'll give you my cell. Or email me at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com to get my cell phone number. I really really do want to meet you all. Also you can ask any of the "american's" at the booth to text me because those Dutch people don't have USA cell phone plans. But better to text me directly and I'll run over. WHO ELSE IS GOING? (I know 100,000 people will be there but who from the forums).

Yep. Bug. Could you please display all the cooling settings? @nallath - bug in cooling as you can see. He wants fans completely off yet they are being turned on at layer 1 with M106 S38.25

Those prints look great - I think you've got the steps/mm at the right value. However those arrows are pointing to areas where it appears to overextrude as you say. That could be due to temperature fluctuations - that's easy to check - see if the temp is cylcing by 10C or more - for example from 220C to 230C back and forth. It could be that the wider areas are when the printer is hotter. This is a common problem when people increase the wattage of their heater but don't change PID settings. Or more likely it could be a Z screw issue where your bed is not moving always .2mm (or .15mm etc) exactly and where sometimes it moves a little too far and sometimes not enough. There are many things that can affect Z but the most common and the easiest to fix is dirt on the Z screw. Try removing as much grease as possible along with dirt. But other possible errors include Z ball bearings need cleaning or replacing or the Z nut needs replacing.

Please! don't go private. A new thread is fine but if so link to it from here.

Just tape saran wrap over the front and sides and put a copy box from work over the top (they have them near the photocopiers or in supply room - just remove the rest of the paper and take a box home). No need to buy anything.

I agree with @geert_2. I recommend getting it at this store: http://www.makershop.fr/pieces-detachees-ultimaker/993-tfm-isolant-teflon-ultimaker-2-plus.html

You want the pulleys as close as possible to the stepper motors (not as close as possible to the end of the shaft). But not touching. So about 0.5mm gap is good. Otherwise the belt will touch the wood (it's subtle) and you will get leaning prints instead of vertical prints.

I recommend also a smaller print - maybe a 2cm cube. Also ignore the bottom layer as that is very very sensitive to leveling. Only pay attention to the second layer or higher.

You can test this live during a print. Just change the "flow%" option. This does the same thing and you can do it WHILE PRINTING. The benefit of doing it while printing is you can change the flow ever 5 or 10 layers and mark the print with a permanent marker. and keep good notes. You get prints like this (very first photo): https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs

For something only 5mm high the temperature in the air is still nice and warm and you will get good layer adhesion from each layer to the next as long as the fan isn't on. But if you don't enclose the machine to keep the air warm you can get really bad layer bonding such that there is a grain. Print a pencil shape. one vertical. One horizontal. Bend them in your fingers. The vertically printed one is likely to break easily due to bad layer adhesion. This is not a problem with PLA because it has such a low glass temperature versus air temperature in the printer. But the higher in glass-temperature that you go the more likely you get incomplete melting/bonding/adhesion between any two layers. The part may seem fine right up until you break it and then you realize how weak the part was the whole time. With PLA the air temp is typically 20C and glass temp around 55C or about 30C difference in temperature. If you can keep the air temp 30C below glass temp you can run the fan at 100% no problem, lol. But for ABS that would be about 70C air temp! That might damage the stepper motors. Instead we just lower the fan speed and increase air temp to maybe 40C. With ngen it's easier than ABS as glass temp is more like 80C. Much easier to print without layer issues.

Another way to change steps/mm for extruder: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22597-feeder-solution-for-um2-for-filaments-175mm?page=1&sort=#reply-156673

It sounds like you are done then. You want an accuracy better than about 2%. So if you ask for 100mm and it moves 101mm then that's close enough. neotko would disagree with me but I've overextruded and underextruded by 5% and you can't really see any difference. I start noticing it around 30%.

The temp sensor is very unlikely to change by 20C like that. They can fail because inside the temp sensor they are crimped and not soldered and the crimping can loosen as it warms up but this failure mode looks very different from yours. It doesn't change by just 20C (about 1 ohm) but instead changes by at least 50C and it changes suddenly jumping up in temperature. The temperature bounces all around from second to second. Back to your issue. It used to print fine at 210C and now you "have to" set it to 230C. This sounds pretty normal. Maybe it's because you are printing a little "faster"? "faster" means thicker layer height or wider traces or faster print head movement. For example in cura if your nozzle is set to 0.4mm and your shell width is set to 1mm then it makes two 0.5mm passes which is very difficult for a 0.4mm nozzle. Or maybe your teflon part needs replacing. In the printer menu you can check how many hours you have printed. If it has been > 500 hours it's probably time to change the teflon part. Even 100 hours at 250C might be enough to weaken the teflon part. or maybe you are printing with a different color of filament that needs higher temperature. I listed 15 causes of underextrusion above. You might want to think about each possible cause and try to eliminate them. Raising the temperature to 230C will help reduce underextrusion but the cause may be one of the other possibilities.

And select "MOVE'. It's right there in your photo. And move the filament an exact amount like 10mm or 100mm. Then measure the actual movement.

@yellowshark - those "thick strings" circled in red in the above photo are caused when the extruder is leaking over air and then moves into your print and the string attaches on the outer edge of the part. Most commonly seen in the "cool head lift" feature but anytime the head is traversing an air gap with no retraction is another common time to see this. The best fix for all the issues you highlighted (except overhangs) is to slow down printing so you get less leakage (less pressure).

I did some testing of ngen yesterday. My materials properties tester is working great now (yay!). I like ngen quite a bit so far. The glass temp is about 80C versus PLA 55C The tensile modulus is (higher is stiffer) 0.57mpa versus PLA 1.4mpa the tensile strength (higher is stronger) is about 51 mpa versus PLA 53mpa What does this mean? So it's about twice as flexible as PLA! That's a fantastic property. It's what makes nylon so "strong". Nylon, ABS, PLA, ngen are all about the same actual strength (amount of force to break) but because nylon is so flexible it makes it really really hard to break. You can drive over it with a car or drop it off the roof onto cement and it won't break. But nylon is too flexible for some situations. Ngen is right in the middle - still quite stiff but twice as flexible as pla. SO MUCH EASIER to cut it with a razor like neo says. But try to pull on 2.85mm filament and both ngen, pla, nylon will all pull about the same before snapping - about 77 pounds pulling force. BUT GLASS TEMP MORE LIKE 80C. Nylon is over 100C. These are my own measured somewhat subjective temperatures - it's where I start to feel that I can bend it and it holds the new shape without any effort. PLA is 55C. What does this mean? It means it's harder to print! But not as hard as ABS (around 100C) or Nylon (over 100C). You want the bed around 80C when printing ngen to reduce warping. You should really enclose the printer to warm the air to 35C inside but not mandatory. You will have layer adhesion issues like ABS but not as bad. So you want less fan but obviously zero fan means bad overhangs. If you have any layer bonding issues, reduce fan and/or cover the printer to raise air temp. It also means it won't melt in a hot car in the sun. Another 30C margin of error should be plenty. You should be able to leave this in the hottest car in the hot sun in a parking lot. Hopefully. Maybe not in Dubai. But you can't pour boiling water into a cup of it (which you can do with ABS because the water cools to 95C within a few seconds). All in all I'd say a very nice material so far.

I was precise. find the MOVE menu. It's on the main screen. Play with it. Tell me what happens.

On the UMO my belts are quite loose. There's a video of Eric (one of the founders) plucking it like a guitar string. That's the best and most helful of how tight it should be. The pitch should be below or almost below human pitch hearing but you need to be experienced with knowing the pitch of 20Hz so it's best to watch the video. Someone should say something like: Push head all the way to the side, hang 100gram weight on band. Deflection should be 3mm at center. Something like that. Really you want them pretty tight but not so tight that you feel an increase in friction when you push the head around. If they are too loose you get "play" aka "backlash" (look it up in wikipedia) and you get things like infill not touching the walls of your part properly and strange effects where walls stick out near holes but not in other places and more strangeness.

Click the part. Click scale. Enter "25.4". Done.

warranty? Fixed? I still don't understand. Are you saying you have an accurate way to measure actual nozzle temperature and the nozzle is 20C cooler than the printer says it is? If that's what you are saying then this is normal and expected. That's why you can't copy "temperature settings" across printers. The heat flow of the print head is different for every printer. The temp sensor is very accurate but only where the temp sensor is located. The temp sensor isn't inside the nozzle.