gr5

This may be related to many 503 errors I got today at the ultimaker.com website.

I don't see anything wrong in the photo. Maybe you should circle the problem or explain it in words?

I agree that I know of no 3d printable melted filaments that could do this other than peek. And the UM printers can't do PEEK without major modifications. I just like to educate. I can't help teach. modulus of elasticity aka plain old modulus is a measure of flexibility where the higher the number, the stiffer. and the lower the number, the more rubbery. tensile strength is how much pulling tension it can take before it is damaged or breaks (some people call it yield strenth where it's just enough that if you stop pulling it will recover). It's in psi (pounds pulled per square inch) or in pascals. Larger numbers are stronger. Another measurement is elongation at fracture in percent which is interesting because if it's small like 1% then it's brittle like glass no matter how strong it is. And if it's larger then it is more likely to dent or stretch than shatter.

Great! Just learned something. Don't use yellow tape for 3d printing! lol.

Yes but there is just a straight wire between the arduino and stepper driver. There aren't any complicated components. Still it could have been the PCB. A crack in the PCB traces, a bad solder joint. Plus there are other things connected to the stepper driver such as a few resistors and power and ground but still - arduino is just as likely it seems to me. Regarding temperature - definitely the wrong firmware will do it as there are SO MANY different temp probes out there for all kinds of hacks and of course the UMO+ uses a pt100 with a temp circuit board and the UMO regular uses a different circuit board (on the print head) and different table and some people replace either of those with other solutions. You could measure the voltage on the temp head. The UMO uses a thermocouple and then it goes through a one chip tiny board and the 3 wires going to that board are power (5V) and ground to the board and temperature going back where voltage=0V is 0C, 5V is 500C and linear in between so room temp (20C) should be 200mv.

no no no! Not good for tiny gear teeth. taulman is WEAKER (or about the same) tensile strength than PLA and more flexible by about 6X. Would be worse than PLA for tiny gears. Nylon is INCREDIBLY STRONG because it is so flexible. So for many applications like large gears you can put MUCH MORE FORCE on it than on PLA because due to the flexibility it will warp enough such that the forces are distributed all over the part. But the tensile strength is about the same as PLA. So for example if you made a short rope out of PLA and NYLON 910 they would each hold about the same weight but if you made a cube and drove a car over them the nylon would be fine but not the pla. The nylon would squish like a pancake and pop back up after the car passed over. Or if you made a stick and told someone to break it over their knee the PLA would break easily but not the nylon. The problem for these gears is that nylon is too flexible - the gears would slip because the entire body of the gear would compress away from the teeth of the other gear. Once it starts slipping you get grinding and the nylon gears are soft and will rip to shreds. If you could add lots of pressure between the gears somehow (push the axis together with 10kg of force) then it could easily hold the 60 kg rotating force at the gear teeth. But adding 10kg of force between the gears will cause too much friction! Plus it might cause the metal gears to eventually wear the nylon.

Green tape is the same stuff as far as I know. I suppose one might be better than the other - I don't know. At my local paint store the green frog tape (any width) is expensive. But on ebay the 3 inch blue tape (didn't check green) was cheaper than coffee. But prices change - this was a few years ago. I have plenty of tape for the last few years for my painting needs and don't use it for 3d printing anymore.

A simple desk fan will make quite a bit of difference. Turn it on after the first layer is done. You will see HUGE improvements in quality.

Nice specifications! About twice as strong as PLA and twice as stiff. Still a LONG way from brass which is 1000X stiffer! Making tiny gears will be strong enough but they aren't stiff enough and will just warp enough that they will slip and then when they slip they will self destroy.

>So I came to understand that a grayed out item is disabled I haven't used cura 2.X much because it's slower so you are probably right. But maybe not. Maybe both parameters are "live" and whichever it hits first is when the fan is on full? I don't know but it's something to try. Also maybe layer 0 is called layer 1 in certain parts of the gui. Try turning the fan on at layer 2 maybe? You can look at the gcode pretty easily - it's all commented where each layer starts (or just search for layer changes by searching for " Z") and fan commands are M106 and M107 where S0 is zero fan and S255 is 100% fan.

The first tab should say "search image", right? And you have to hover over the image and then choose "full" to insert it, right? Or does it not show up at all? It all works for me. When you insert the image it shows up as this html-like text with some kind of image number but when you click "post reply" the image shows up in the post. It sounds like it wasn't working temporarily and now it *is* working maybe? I'm thinking something was wrong with the pictures. I usually shrink the pictures to be only one or two thousand pixels wide (a few million pixels) and not these 10 megapixel images. Maybe some of your images were too big???

HEY TEACHERS!! Do you have a visually impaired or blind student? Why not print all the graphs and diagrams in today's lesson plan ahead of time so that the blind student can feel all the graphs and diagrams. Cura already does this - just load any image (works best with black and white only) in cura and it asks you a few basic questions (thickness of base or "paper" and thickness of the black lines or "embossing"). It's like making embossed business cards for the blind. Does word have a braille font? One could update the words and letters (e.g. "time" "x" "y" "theta") using word with a braille font (assuming it exists). Every school for the blind out there needs a 3d printer in their IT department. Or a 3d print farm.

You have regular fan speed on at height = 0.27mm but since the first layer is at .3mm that's full fan on the bottom layer. Change that to maybe 2mm.

Your print looks like you have no or very little fan. I would mount another fan or direct the fan flow better at the print and make sure fan is at 100% by about 1mm off the bed (you want fan off for the very bottom layer). Also reducing nozzle temp might help. Ignore absolute values like "180C is good" as 200C on an Ultimaker is probably 20C different then 200C on an i3.

Those chinese boards are so cheap and not very good quality so it's always best to buy 3. I don't know if they have a different circuit but I strongly doubt it. more importantly did you load the right firmware onto the arduino on the 1.5.7? You may have loaded the UMO+ firmware by accident which expects a different voltage from the thermocouple. Also you might have to remove a 4.7K resistor possibly. Some of the temp measurement circuits use a 4.7K pull up resistor but I don't think you are supposed to use that for the UMO circuit. Also if the extruder motor is fine and the driver is fine it's almost surely the arduino and not the PCB as there isn't much circuitry on the PCB itself. So did you get a new arduino with that new 1.5.7 board?

Maybe the server is full? So did you click on the icon second from the right? And choose the upload tab? And then choose photos on your own computer? Or did you do something different such as use the center icon, "add external image". I strongly recommend NOT using external link but instead download the images to your computer and then upload them to ultimaker.

It might be stress on the bowden tube. I would try printing at half speed to reduce the force needed by the extruder in that area. You might want to get a new bowden tube as they can get ground up a bit and exhibit higher friction. Have you used any "filled" filaments like CF, brassfill, glowfill, etc?

glass is better but... everyone talking about blue tape so... A little heat with blue tape can help the bottom layer get into the cracks. 40C is plenty and you can lower that to 30C once the bottom layer is done. But really if you need a little heat to keep parts from curling off cleaned blue tape then you have other issues. And about tape not sticking to bed! Yes! The solution is to buy wider tape. I bought some cheap 3 inch (75mm) on ebay. Illuminarti bought 6 inch (150mm) tape! He just uses one piece of tape!

As far as I know there is now way. Sorry. Just stop using the account? I can delete all of your 3 posts ever made if you want and I can ban you but the account will still exist. You can also change all your profile settings (like what printers you have and where you live) all to "secret" or "anonymous" or just blank. But the account can't be deleted as far as I know. If you want to stop getting emails from ultimaker - now that's pretty easy to do. It's in your profile settings. I turned all of those off myself.

> with a name and we understand other thing etcetc. Good point. There are 2 fans so... Maybe a video showing with fan set to 0 and 255 would help. It sure sounds like something is broken - but I can't decide if it's the fan or the PCB or if you have completely confused us.

Well you can adjust the current to the Z stepper. In fact there is a firmware patch that does just this as the latest boards for umo+ and um2 have an issue with the stepper drivers. This command adjusts the current (until you power cylce the machine): M907 Z900 I think the current used to be 1200ma and now I think 900ma is recommended. To save permanently you need: M500 Which saves to permanent memory so you can power cycle and the setting is saved.

Maybe the fan is connected to the wrong connector (5v instead of 12v). Is there any fan control at all? Does the fan start spinning as soon as you power up?

Is the fan set to 255 on the ulticontroller? (you can play with fan speeds while printing). not 100. 255. That's all I can think of. Otherwise maybe defective fan? I guess the PCB could be partly broken but usually it fails all off or full on.

If you are happy with blue tape then stick with it. This worked for many people with great quality for several years including myself. But like power windows and power door locks on a car - once you go heated bed you won't want to go back. One of the biggest advantages it that it keeps level position for months with no adjustments.

I agree with everyone else. More heat. You asked what to do with the volume calculation. 2mm^3/sec is nice and slow. The printer can do up to about 8mm^3/sec with the .4mm nozzle at 230C (I know - you like to print cooler and indeed quality is better at slower printing speeds and cooler printing but if the customer doesn't care and you want to print fast, and there aren't a lot of overhangs, 230C or even 240C is fine). But for a larger nozzle like the 0.8 you can easily print double the volume (16mm^3/sec). I recommend never going over half of these limits (4mm^3/sec with .4mm nozzle and 8mm^3/sec for .8mm nozzle) because when you are right at the limit of what the printer can do you will get occasional bad layers (underextruded).