gr5

My understanding is the only way to get that error is if a gcode purposely moves outside of the print volume such as: G0 X-10 (move X axis to position -10mm which isn't allowed) or G0 X300 or even G0 X923489123987482374 Which cura should never generate but can happen if you have a read error. Most likely those 2 ribbon cables that connect the computer to the card reader.

LePaul - I don't think you leveled the nozzle close enough to the glass. You need to squish it even further into the glass. Turn the 3 screws another 1/2 turn CCW.

I got this for the first time. I was in production mode (what I mean is I was printing many identical parts) and it was the 3rd time printing the same gcode file. I just printed it again and it was fine. I'm guessing it means a read error from the SD card which is very worrying. Maybe re-rout the parallel cables? I've had this printer since the UM2 came out (3 years?) and this is the first time.

There is not: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases There is a plus and a dual but not both. I recommend you go with the iroberti feeder option and also strongly consider the meduza upgrade at the same time. tinkerMarlin lets you change steps/mm (but you can't go negative). 3dsolex has all the parts for the meduza kit but it's not on sale still at his store but if you email him he might send you one. Or you could get one from my store (I don't ship to germany from store normally but just email me and I'll send you a paypal request - these are very inexpensive kits): photo assembly guide: http://gr5.org/med/ The kit in my store (until 3dsolex sells these I'll ship international if you email me): http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/meduza-feeder-upgrade-kit.html

Isn't temperature on the machine? Not in Cura? For UM2? I haven't used cura 2.3 with Um2 yet. Only um3. Anyway I get the rumbling. The dreaded rumbling. Sometimes. Usually in the areas of overhangs - like if you are printing a BB-8 sphere then you will get it low down where overhang is the worst. On overhangs you get something I call "raised edges". The best fix for raised edges is more fan but I assume you are already at 100% fan. Another fix is more support - add support when it is worse than 45 degrees can kind of hold things down and reduce the "raised edges" effect. But the best solution is to get your part to stick like hell and just live with it. That's what I do. And we've discussed this before but the main thing people don't do is squish it enough into the tape or glass. If you squish it so much that it's transparent it will stick so damn well it will occasionally (once every 200 prints) remove tiny chunks of glass when you take the print off. People just don't realize the power of "squish".

Typically if you have strings and blobs you want to print slow - around 30mm/sec and cool and also stay away from white filament. Please post photo of your issues.

White PLA (doesn't seem to matter who makes it) is like this - much more difficult to print. I don't know what they all add to white PLA but I recommend you choose an uglier color and spray paint it afterwards with an automoble primer and then any spray paint on top of the primer.

If you have a UM2+ definitely print that tool. I use it when I change filament. To do cold pulls (rare). And if I want to put the filament away for the night. Often when done with a filament if you use the "procedure" or if you just yank it out there is often a string and often a blob at the end of the string. If you don't use the "wedge" tool that string and also blob end up inside the feeder or inside the bowden. It can be a serious problem - just that string can make it too tight for the next piece of filament. Plus you get the wrong color coming out 10 minutes into the print if you change colors because the thread is the wrong color.

I don't think anyone knows how long the cores will last but I'm hearing something like 365 days 24 hours per day. But again, I don't think anyone knows.

Select all, copy. (save it in paste buffer just in case) then click "leave". I think you have two replies going at the same time - and it's concerned about the other? I dont' know - I haven't seen this on a simple "post reply" action.

This is off subject but for 2 color prints you have to break your part into two separate STL files - one for each color. For example in DSM I would put one on each layer. DSM is tricky though as if you are editing something on one layer sometimes components cross over to the level you are on if they are touching. So I usually have to make the other layer invisible so it doesn't do that. Then in cura load both STL files and select them both, right click and merge them. In Cura 2.3, before you merge (or after) you can set which material goes with which STL file and other settings. You can do this with a single filemant printer also like UM2 and instead of different colors do different settings (like fuzzy skin on one STL but not the other for a nice pattern or different infill settings or whatever).

Then look at the part in layer view next and see what is PVA and what is PLA. Make sure support is in PVA.

These settings look good to me. You have it set up to do support with pva. Is that what you want?

When I asked for photos I meant a photo showing the part. Showing it in slice view. Show that the part is good (or bad) in slice view. Then if it looks good in slice view and you printed it and it came out bad I need a photo of that also.

This is a common problem. Cura by default sets the infill speed higher than the print speed. Make *all* of the printing speeds visible so you can see what is going on. I suspect the infill speed is fast enough that the feeder can't keep up and so is underextruding but outer walls are printing slower.

Photos please. Photo of the problem and photo of the same spot in slice view.

There is also a calibrate procedure for the "change nozzle" movement. I didn't have to run it as they do that at the factory.

I've continued 17 hour prints before. Even if you lose power. First step is to get the bed back to temp asap as if the glass cools and print falls off I'd give up. Then you have hours (or days) to figure out how to continue the print. There are many tricks. Most people figure out where it failed (Z height) and then edit the gcode and delete everything below that z height (except homing?). Another solution is to use tinkergnome marlin which lets you continue a print. But put a blanket on your print and bed first as the bed will be cooling during the upload of the new marlin.

I should update my profile - I have been using the um3 for a month now. What layer height, speed and temperature are you printing at? When you have too much pressure in the head the force that the feeder exerts gets too high and it starts to grind at the feeder. The problem is possibly at the feeder but 95% chance the problem is at the head. If you print at 1mm layer height (yikes!) you need to keep the speed probably under about 8mm/sec with the .4mm nozzle. Or did you drill out the nozzle larger? Also check for filament tangles. I have more ideas but lets start with this.

I know that this new Cura can be very frustrating. I hated it the first 48 hours but after about 5 prints I was quite comfortable with it.

I'm not sure I understand this sentence. Are you saying it is printing support with PLA? Or no support? In either of these 2 cases you would have seen that in Cura layer view. Always check cura layer view before starting a print. In layer view you can click near the top right corner on "pla" or "pva" and it highlights that material in a brighter color for the current layer. So slide the layer to a layer that should include both support and non-support and click on pla and pva.

The second thing is don't mess with "support horizontal expansion" in "support" section. It should default to 3mm. This is critical as it allows all the PVA to be connected to itself and that way nowhere do you have to rely on PVA sticking above PLA. PLA on top of PVA works well but PVA on top of PLA does not work well. It barely - sort of - works - half the time. But having the 3mm expansion connects all the PVA together on most models.

Yikes. Well PVA is very difficult to print but you should be able to do this. Could you post a photo of the model and the slice view in cura? The picture is a bit blurry so I could be wrong but I don't see any PVA sticking to the glass. Is that true? If so I think you just have your leveling off for your PVA nozzle. Is PVA in nozzle 2? Did you do the second nozzle calibration? The most important thing to do - in order to get PLA and PVA to stick to glass is to smush it in. Because of this I turned auto leveling off and ran both leveling processes without the paper - by eye - such that the nozzle just barely touched the glass. But it could be as simple as you never did the second nozzle calibration. Whatever process you use to level nozzle 1 must be exactly the same as nozzle 2. You DO NOT WANT one nozzle slightly higher (even by 0.05mm) than the other. If so then the lower nozzle will knock the print a lot.

It's the temp sensor cable - not the heater cable. Disconnect this cable from the board underneath and measure the resistance. It should be a steady 108 ohms or so (depending on temperature). 300 degrees is over 200 ohms I think so if the resistance is fluctuating between 100 ohms and 200 ohms that is the problem. Try jiggling the wire where it meets the heated bed. it could be the wire isn't screwed into the bed properly.

As long as you never set the fan to below 30%, getting rid of this feature won't hurt. Plus it doesn't work very well anyway. If I don't set the fan to 100% until 5mm and is printing .1mm layers that is 50 layers so fan is 2%, then 4% then 6%, etc. When it hits 2% it powers 100% for 200ms then to 2% and fan stops. When it goes to 4% it is already on and it doesn't do the special "power on" code. So the code is kind of useless. It should do full power everytime power is increased - not every time fan is turned on. In Configuration_adv.h just set the time to 0 or minpwm to 255: // When first starting the main fan, run it at full speed for the// given number of milliseconds. This gets the fan spinning reliably// before setting a PWM value. (Does not work with software PWM for fan on Sanguinololu)#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 200#define FAN_KICKSTART_MINPWM 20