gr5

Vaz - before printing anything - always look at your model in layer view. I'm 90% sure it is skipping over several layers. Even though they look more or less solid in normal view - (I see some holes in there) I think they are consedered empty/open when slicing. Like didier says, look at it in xray view also and all red spots are a problem. You might be able to fix it simply by checking the "A" box in "fix horrible" settings. Are you using sketchup by any chance? sketchup tends to make non-solid objects (infinitely thin walls) which are not printable. There are sketchup plugins to test your model for solidness or you can run it through the free web netfabb thingy that may fix your model.

Here are top recommended speeds for .1mm layers: 40mm/sec at 200C 60mm/sec at 210C 80mm/sec at 225C 100mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. 60mm/sec infill at 210C should be okay for most PLA and most printers but it's the fastest I like to go for that temp. I've never printed PLA/PHA but I'm not surprised that it needs a bit more heat. Note that when you have a 100% infill like this and you overextrude at 110% you run the heavy risk of too much pressure build up - no place for the extra PLA to go so it skips back. Whereas 110% on a wall should be fine as there is plenty of "air" for that PLA to fill into.

Not so fast Martijn! This is not solved yet! I looked at the gcodes for the lines that get those diagonal lines on benchy. To the left of the arch (near the top of the arch) a typical movement in X is 7mm and in Y is .363mm. The steps/mm for the UM2 is 80 for X and Y axes. This means one microstep is .0125mm (1/80). That means there were 29 steps on the left side of the arch. So there should be 29 lines when benchy is not rotated yet the photo shows 2 lines. looking even more carefully it looks like the Y movement between 2 "zebra" lines is about .18mm which is about 15 or 16 microsteps. Wait! Aha! Are these steppers set to 16 microsteps? If so then those lines appear to be at one FULL step. That shouldn't be visible, right? Also I confirmed that the slope of the walls is tilted horizontally outward as you move towards the bow, and outwards as you move up. This COMPLETELY agrees with the theory that this is a step issue as the diagonal lines are like isolines on a contour map. Also the outward-toward-bow angle is stronger than the outward-toward-the-top angle which makes sense as the diagonal zebra stripes are not exactly 45 degrees but are more vertical. This completely agrees with Martin's step theory. The only detail is that it is happening every 16 steps! Not every micro step. This could be a servo issue or a driver issue. The UMO has similar mircostepping - 80 microsteps per mm (actually 78) so I'm curious to know if it has the same zebra stripes.

When installing the block you have to be careful that it doesn't touch the fan shroud. Look at the gap between the 2 from the rear of the machine - try inserting a toothpick or piece of paper. If there is no gap then raise the block a bit by rotating that round steel nut (while heated to 180C). You should be able to raise the block without taking anything apart although releasing some tension by loosening the 4 thumb screws several full turns might make it easier. I put a very thin piece of kapton tape on two edges of my block so that there would be a thin insulating layer of air between the two. This may have nothing to do with your issue but it would certainly help explain it. What you are seeing in that infill is underextrusion. Default cura profile now has the infill running much faster than the shell so sometimes the infill is just a little too fast (or maybe your nozzle is just a little too cold).

Wow! Big difference. I don't like to go below .06mm layer height. Strange things can happen when you go below that. I think it was a combination of thin layer height with changing speeds.

By default I think Cura sets the infill to print much faster. If you are printing thick layers (.2mm) and cool temperatures ( <220C ) then it could be that your infill is heavily underextruding and the printer doesn't recover at the walls because it has ground the filament up to powder. It may take a few layers of much-less-infill to recover. This is one possible theory. Another theory has to do with the fan coming on very slowly. Except I would have expected the opposite - bottom layers better. Another theory has to do with the heat from the bed - what temp do you use? but again I would have expected the opposite (warmer layers extrude more nicely - although maybe what I'm seeing is not underextrusion and the photo is just not close/detailed enough).

By the way - your problem seemed to come on suddenly. The most likely cause of that is tangled filament but there are many other possibilities. Check your filament for tangles and consider putting the spool on the floor (that's how I always print). There are hundreds of other causes of underextrusion though so give us some feedback and if what I've told you doesn't fix it you can goolge ultimaker2 underextrusion or let us know you aren't sure what to do next and I can give you more ideas.

This is typical severe underextrusion. There are hundreds of causes but usually you are simply printing too high a volume of plastic and/or the temperature is too cold (it's too viscous). Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Temperatures vary by color of material (and manufacturer) but these are good starting values. Also I recommend you print all portions at the same speed (e.g. by default cura prints infill at a faster speed).

The phrase "3d printing" is already a problem - right from the start. It evokes images of reliability of 2d printers (which in the 1970s needed constant servicing). Some people prefer other phrases like "additive manufacturing". I like to compare it to a lathe or milling machine. 3D printing is still not ready for the average user.

You still seem to have quite heavy underextrusion. Like 50%. That's pretty severe. On the bottom layers. I have no idea what kind of settings "high quality" is. It changes from version to version anyway in Cura. I suggest you try this: 35mm/sec (or slower) for ALL printing speeds (infill, shell, everything). 150mm/sec (or faster) for travel moves. Full fan. 210C. .1mm to .2mm layers. Brim. Bed at 60C.

By the way - always trust layer view - it's what you get. If it doesn't look right don't "hope for the best" and go ahead and print, lol. And always check layer view as it reminds you things you forgot such as "oh - crap - I forgot brim" or "oops - infill is wrong" or "oops - those overhangs will be tough".

Some of your walls are too thin to print. Cura doesn't like to print thinner than 2xnozzle width so about .8mm. Due to floating point errors it's safest to make all your walls at least 1mm wide. If you want a quick and dirty solution you can lower your nozzle a bit *and* lower your shell size to be an integer ratio of that. .4mm is standard nozzle. So for example you could enter .35mm nozzle and .7mm shell and your part might come out in layer view. If so you can increase to .36 .37 .38 and so on until you have the thickest possible. The printer will print okay at .35mm (even though it's a .4mm nozzle). It will put the lines .35mm apart in the infill instead of .4mm and it will underextrude the proper amount. But the quality will suffer a little bit. Going down below .3mm will be pretty bad quality - still maybe good enough for you. If you created the model it would be better to just make all the vertical walls at least 1mm.

It's trivial. It's a gcode: M302 Which allows "cold extrudes". You can put that in a gcode file and "print" it. Or even better, just get printrun/pronterface and send the gcode manually: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

So problem solved? It needed "netfabb repair"?

english?

STOP ASSUMING IT'S INFILL. It's not infill. If it were infill it would have not been diagonal. Also people have tried different amounts of infill and it made no difference. Now looking at the gray/blue/black boats I'm not surprised that different colors act differently. Some colors/brands just print much nicer.

Please post a photo. Also please specify country in your location profile setting and specify which printer(s) you have. I'm guessing you are talking about sagging between bridging. If so you will get much better results with faster fan. For example with PLA make sure fan is at 100% and if you already do that then consider lowering the temperature to 210 or 200 or even 190C (but you might have to also print slower. With ABS you may have had the fan off to get good layer adhesion and you would want to up it to 30% fan speed (about the minimum where it will spin) for bridging layers.

The area in the "not ok" shows typical underextrusion. You are extruding only about half as much filament as needed. I can't think of why it would be worse on the bottom - whatever the problem was it fixed itself. Perhaps there was some filament that got ground up and created a flap that was stuck in the bowden or the filament was tangled or perhaps you did something in the TUNE menu? The most common cause of underextrusion is printing too fast or too cold. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

By the way for doing testing - I recommend the feature "cut off object bottom" under "advanced" "quality". This can save you lots of time when trying different cura options. And no need to print the whole tug. Once the pattern is visible (or missing) you can stop printing.

The cabin has very flat walls and also they are not parallel to any axis. Flat walls will highlight tiny tiny errors. Because this error has such a distinct pattern it is quite visible. It's possible that any flat wall with this orientation will have the problem. The rear and front walls I suspect are parallel with the X=0 plane. Another way to say that: parallel with the left and right walls of the printer. Another way to say that: The X axis doesn't move at all while printing the front and rear walls of benchy. One would expect patterns on those walls to be vertical and not diagonal. So the patterns woudn't be so impressive/unusual there. If you rotate benchy by 45 degrees the pattern will almost surely change completely.

Also when you are printing lots of different things with lots of different parameters sometimes you forget some parameter - for example today I forgot to turn on brim feature but I noticed it in slice view. Also once for one print I had turned off the "bottom" and then on the next part I almost forgot to turn it back on but it was obvious in slice view.

In layer view it will be missing but in normal view it will be there. xray view is also helpful as any red spots indicate an error in the model (not solid) and you should then check that area in layer view.

I thought of something else that might cause this - if the feeder was doing something weird where it overextruded for a millisecond or so on a regular interval. This could be the stepper motor moving suddenly and then not moving for a bit - then repeat this for the whole print. This sounds likely at first - it's just that the bowden tube should be absorbing and averaging out the movements and also the fact that I've never seen this pattern before on any of my prints - but maybe that's because this is an interesting shape - the trapezoidal face.

This problem is bugging me. I pushed my head around for 1 minutes trying to come up with something that would cause this issue - the only things I could come up with are a deep (DEEP!) spiral scratch on one of the thicker rods in the gantry. Or if the rod ended with a bump face instead of a flat end and the case of the printer also had a bump in there and as it rotated the rod would slide sideways. This all seems very unlikely (some hardware issue causing this) but when you printer is powered off some time, try sliding your head left and right and see if you can feel some bumping movement side to side at the same spacing as the lines on benchy. on to software: Well I don't think it's the slicer because I looked at much more of the gcode and most of the lines to the left of that arching window are just straight shots. Every 3rd line or so has a point half way but the point doesn't seem to line up with the "zebra pattern". That leaves the firmware. Marlin. If it happens to you it should happen to everyone. I will try printing benchy with a recent version of Marlin (but that printer is busy for the next 13 hours). I'll even use your exact gcode file! But please do my "push the head left and right test"!

This was my theory as well - that's why I wanted to see the gcode. But the gcode proves that it is *not* the infill. this is just one frame showing the infill but if you go up layer by layer you will see the infill pattern - if it showed through - would have been less diagonal on this part of benchy - basically it should be vertical. Also in my experience the infill pattern only shows through on transparent PLA or if you have only one outer shell. Two outer shells are plenty: