gr5

I still think it's the belt snapping into the pulley. One of the long or short belts can sometimes ride up the edge of the pulley. Another common sound is caused by the long axes moving - you can test this by touching each one on the side where you can feel it on the outside of the printer. That flat circle at the end of the shaft. However it could be realted to the bearings in the head. Those two smaller diameter rods that go through the head - they get bent/warped easily. Pop them out of the blocks - just push up/down by putting your thumb on the rod or block and finger on the other and squeeze it out. It pops out easily. Then repeat for other axes. Try sliding these rods through the bearings in the head. Anyway it doesn't look very serious - I think it will probably print just fine with all this noise. If your rods are warped (try rolling on a flat table) then contact UM support at support.ultimaker.com.

Photo/video please. With the nozzle still hot, turn off power and pull on the filament through the feeder several cm (please post your country in your settings - if you are UK or USA that would be inches) and then push it back in just to see if it's stuck in the bowden. What you describe however could simply be that you levelled a little too high and the nozzle is too far from the glass on the bottom layer. Easily fixed by rotating all 3 levelling screws the same amount CCW from below - about 1/4 turn should do it.

Perhaps the filament isn't 2.85mm - try measureing it with a micrometer. If the filament is 3.0mm it's probably clogged in the bowden tube. Your nozzle may be clogged - you might want to stick some kind of thin metal thing in there to clean it out.

First of all the printer is tough as hell and even though it makes that horrible sound it should be fine. I think everyone has experienced this at least once. Also the stepper motors work fine at 60-70C. Even when they aren't moving, if they are powered, they get hot. I've been told that they get equally hot whether they move or not. I'm a little skeptical but I *do* believe they get almost as hot. What should have "given way" was the stepper itself, but occasionally the belt will skip a tooth. You should check that both sides of the long belts are equally tight. If not it might be a good idea (but doesn't matter that much) to loosen the 2 pulleys for that belt so that the tension can equalize but if you do this make sure both long belts are in the same position such that the metal rods going through the head are perpendicular. Be aware that if you cut power it's fine to push the print head around manually - in fact a good habit for you to do. Same is true with feeder - you can just pull the filament out when the feeder power is off (which is almost always when not printing). Of course if the filament is in the head and the head is cold it won't come out but if you are half way through a "feed filament" you can pull it out to start over, or push it all the way into the head manually also. The most troubling thing is your limit switch issue. I would fix that when you get some time. I would hook up pronterface to the UM2 through a USB to a laptop or desktop and play with those switches. See if they are stuck on or stuck off. I would push them dozens of times and see if maybe the cabling is pinched, broken, or shorting out somewhere - particularly near those LED power wires and also particularly sometimes the motor covers (those white metel covers in the corners which can come off by removing only one screw) are pinching the endstop/limit switch wiring and shorting it out. Or maybe the limit switch is never closing - maybe nothing is reaching it and you simply need to slide one of the smaller rods over a bit or adjust the position of the limit switch by a mm or two.

It's hard to say for sure but I'd say 90% likely it's underextrusion. It's hard to say because you get something slightly similar if after leveling the nozzle is too far away from the bed. That issue should only affect the bottom layer. So assuming this is underextrusion, the most common cause is printing too cold or too fast. 220C at .2mm layers at 30mm/sec is nice and slow and safe speed to try initially. Your temp sensor could be off by 10C so you could even try 230C. However I'm going to guess that in this case you have a different issue. I'm going to guess that the filament is partly stuck in the bowden tube. You may have ground down the filament and created a little flap of filament that then entered the tube and got stuck in there. Not sure. Or maybe your filament is too large (e.g. 3.01mm is too large, 2.85 is normal). I would power cycle the machine to ensure the feeder motor is off, then heat the nozzle to 180C, then once it is at that temperature I would pull the filament out manually out through the stepper. This should be easy with only 1 or 2kg of force needed. Inspect the filament visually. If it takes more force - say 5kg, then something is wrong. If you can't get it out at all then likely it is stuck in the bowden. You may have to remove the bowden - there are small clips that need to be removed, then push down on the bowden holder while lifting on the bowden.

you have to remove that metal cover. It's held in by one screw somewhere along the edge of the cover. The white cover on the inside of the machine that covers both the stepper motors.

Gerhard - please post a photo.

The metal grommet goes at the bottom of the feeder. It keeps the PLA from grinding away at the black nylon case and getting nylon up into your nozzle causing clogs.

Well you need to tighten the nozzle into the block very tight so it won't leak. But not too tight as brass isn't as strong as steel. Anders made a special torque wrench tool for this so I recommend you print the tool early on. It's about 5 inch pounds of torque (.5 newton meters). https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

Someone recently fixed a similar but different problem by loosening the 4 screws you can see on the feeder and pushing the feeder housing to the left (while filament is in there I think). The motor shaft should stay where it is. then tighten it all back down again. It could be that there just isn't enough current going to the feeder. This is controlled by the board underneath the printer. Or it could be a bad feeder motor. If the loosening trick above doesn't fix this you should create a support ticket at support.ultimaker.com. Hopefully they will send you a new stepper and a new controller board (it's more likely the controller board). Or even better send it back - this is a trickier problem to solve than average I think.

You don't. If you insert a 2mm hex wrench from the hole in the top that turns a 3mm screw that controls the tension.

Well I spent time looking at the wiring carefully. I didn't know this when I bought all the parts but my copter hovers at around 20 Amps draw on the battery (includes all current - even camera gimbals). Of course it draws much more when I give it full power but on average it should use 20A. Obviously now I could have gone with 10 or 20A ESCs instead of 30A saving much weight. If this wiring is good enough for 30A ESC then obviously I can reduce the wiring weight by quite a bit. Immediately after a 10 minute flight my ESCs are hardly warm. Motors are hot though. The battery came with 10AWG, the power module came with 12 AWG, I added the next section (tree branching section). The ESC came with 16 AWG both sides. The numbers below are the average current draw. 4 tree leafs (power leads) go to ESCs and the 5th goes to the gimbal controller. This just shows one side - this is duplicated for red/positive and black/negative wiring.

Well there's 3 important things you can do: 1) When inserting the temp sensor into the block if it is at all tight, remove it and use a drill bit to widen the whole ever so slightly. A 3mm drill will work fine, or a #31 drill if you are in USA. The 3mm drill should be loose in the hole, move it around against all the walls while spinning at high speed for about 6 seconds, blow out dust, try again until the fit is perfect. If you go too far (unlikely) add some aluminum foil. 2) Get an Olsson block: 3dsolex.com. then you can change nozzles without changing block. 3dsolex sells cheaper temp sensors if Um won't give you a free one. 3) Add a drop of light oil when it's stuck and let it sit for a few minutes. Heat helps (but you tried that). Also you can drill the block from the other side with a very small diameter drill - say 1mm. When the hole hits the temp sensor you should hopefully feel it (be careful!). then use a paper clip to push the temp sensor out.

It's supposed to have a metal arm slightly longer. But no worries. I used the shorter switch also. I altered the top of the cover by gluing on a few bits of wood so that it would hit the Z switch. I used a glue gun and scrap chunks of wood. Ugly but very simple and quick to do.

Did you try the shell thickness 0.1mm thing? I can't see that in your screen shot - it looks like 0.4 still. That was what I said to try first. What do you mean "thickness is okay"? It should be at least 1mm thick everywhere. I'm even more sure it's a thickness thing after seeing these screen shots.

Here - you can mark this one as best answer then even though you are the one who figured it out, lol:

I don't think that's the bug, no. It was different. In marlin it looks at the movement and plans out an acceleration phase, a constant velocity phase, and a deceleration phase for every move and there is also the jerk limitation at the endpoints. The code is written such that it may be the XY acceleration that limits the acceleration or it may be the Z or E acceleration that limits the acceleration. But the code that checks this has a bug I think and so the XY acceleration can be exceeded in certain cases - possibly by a factor of 10. I *think* that was what the bug was but not certain. Maybe easier to look on github than in the forum as Simon has only had 2 or 3 pull requests ever I think.

Ah - so 75mm/sec might be wise. Although even if you ask for 500mm/sec Marlin has a max XY speed setting which I think defaults to 300mm/sec which should be fine.

Your model is probably too thin. There are other possibilities but looking at the image that's my first guess. You can verify this by setting the "shell thickness" to 0.1mm and see if that helps. Of course don't print it that way - you want your shell thickness to be a multiple of your nozzle width if possible. It may be that .35mm shell thickness is enough to see your entire model - if so then go ahead and change the nozzle width to .35 and it will print reasonably well (not quite as good quality as normal). But if you can't get it all with .35mm then you need to "fix" the model. of course it may be something else - if that isn't the issue try looking at the part in "xray view". If there is anything "red" then *that* is probably the problem.

When it prompts you for the 1mm part - you are supposed to spin the dial. That will move the bed up. I know it's not clear - they just expect you to figure that out I suppose.

3dphreaks - this is a good find - I will remember to let other people know. I don't know how UM printed the test piece and tested your printer though :( Could you please mark your own answer - the one with the nice youtube link in it as the "correct answer"? thanks!

3dhubs.com is your friend. It turns out there is a guy with an ultimaker2 180km from you who will print anything for you in nylon here: https://www.3dhubs.com/exeter/hubs/3dprintshop Just upload your part and 3dhubs will tell you the price. The material he uses is called "Taulman Bridge" which is a type of nylon that is extremely strong and a bit stiffer than most nylons (which is good - most nylons are too rubbery). You can only get this nylon in black or white but you can die parts in any acid based liquid dye quite easily and it looks great.

Remove the filament and cut the tip to a point. It often gets hung up inside the print head where the bowden tube meets the white teflon part. Also inspect this visually to make sure the bowden is securely sitting inside the white teflon part. You can try feeding manually. For example, power cycle the printer, go to ADVANCED and turn on only the print head to 180C. When temp gets there push and pull on the filament a few times - it should go through the bowden no problem (it's possible there's something inside the bowden binding the filament - that happened to me recently). Push nice and hard - about enough to lift the printer up off the table - that should be enough to get a small amount of filament through the nozzle. If that's not working - it's obviously not the feeder.

Yes! That was the problem for me at first. But you can just rotate the isolator nut (the round nut with the holes in it that raises the nozzle up and down) until the block no longer touches the shroud.