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Can you supply a photo please? Are you saying it did or didn't shift pulley versus shaft? It seems to say that it did shift which implies they can still be tighter. if the shift is sudden it's usually a pulley or an end stop switch. The end stop switches should pop up a message on the ulticontroller I think. Maybe. If the shift is gradual it's usually that the belt is touching (just barely) the wood wall and the motor needs to be moved away slightly using some washers as spacers.

Yes. Well, I heat to 180C, when it gets there push the material in using my fingers just under the feeder, then lower to 90C and leave for 5 minutes. Come back and pull it out - hard. If it's easy then it was too warm and I don't get a good "pull". The tip should be perfectly shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the thin .4mm channel. Then if I change color there is zero mixing of colors.

Well that article goes over my head. I'm an electrical engineer and am very comfortable with many subjects but I just don't get stepper motors. Yet. Maybe there is a more basic article that explains how they work. The wikipedia article is insufficient.

By the way - I don't remove the bowden to do atomic pull anymore. I just pull it out through the feeder. When the feeder power is off (most of the time when you aren't printing) it's easy to just pull it out. The extra resistance is small.

When you open the filament spool the first time it's easy for the end to get under a loop. Once this happens this "knot" or "tangle" can haunt you for the entire spool until you remove it. Whenever I remove a spool from the printer I am careful to never let go of the end. I tuck that end into one of the holes and then throw away or break off the extra bit of filament. This seems wasteful but it is worth it to not have tangles. Here is my "floor" method which is irrelevant from tangles other than when you do get them you can see the entire spool lifting off the floor towards the printer:

Right click on the part and then choose "multiply".

Yes! You should have! That's definitely the problem then. There are 2 endstops on the X axis. First of all the one on the right isn't needed so you can just disconnect that one. One of them is triggering when it shouldn't be. Maybe wires or something are tangled in it? Or the wires are shorting? Something wrong there.

It could have been tangled filament. I often print with my printer sideways so the spool isn't hidden. Also I usually put the filament on the floor as that helps the entry direction into the feeder.

I don't think meshmixer will do the teeth - too close to other stuff. Any cad program will import stl - For example sketchup. Or Design Spark Mechanical.

Also inspect the first meter of your filament both inside the tube (look through it from two directions) and coiled. Is there dust, durt, water, gunk, anything on the filament?

It could be a bunch of things. It could be water droplets on the filament in which case you would hear a little pop and it would spit out extra filament followed by zero filament. It could be the head is hotter than you think - definitely test for that (video below) and it could be normal retraction due to too much pressure where the feeder skips back a bit followed by no extrusion for a few seconds although usually you don't get "burnt" after that. To diagnose better it would help to have a video and also to show your settings for: print speed, infill speed, nozzle temp (I know, 230C) and layer height. Here's how to roughly test that temperature is correct. Also please post what country you are in as part of your profile settings (the location field) and which support option you went with (did you do support.ultimaker.com?).

This is most likely a slipping pulley. Whichever axis moves left/right in this photo. Probably the X axis. Most likely the pulley on the motor itself. use a 2mm hex wrench and tighten the hell out of all 6 pulleys on that axis. But especially the 2 pulleys on the motor. They should be much tighter than you think is necessary. So tight that the wrench twists a little.

Ziehen Sie die 3 Fussschrauben 1/4 Drehung, um mehr Platz zwischen Glas und Düse zu geben.

It's the overhang. You will get best results with more fan. And then try more fan. And then more. For example maybe a house fan. The first step should be to rotate the frog such that it is facing to the left because that is where the UMO fan is and the UM2 has a fan closer to the nozzle there. Also lowering temps can help. What is your current layer height and printing temp and speed? I would slow things down to maybe 20mm/sec and maybe 190C to get better results on that overhang. Overhangs like this are very tricky. Another frog model that is looking up more such that the overhang is more vertical would help a lot!

There's always a way to present information faster. If they have to wait for the nozzle to cool then show a timer in the video and cut to the part when it's cooler and let them know that X seconds went by. When the Mac first came out it took something like 8 seconds to boot. Steve Jobs said that was too long - if they could get it one second faster when you multiply by the millions of people using it that will save millions of seconds. I agree with that sentiment. If it takes you 1 minute of editing to save 1 second of useless video and 60 people watch your video then you broke even on wasted time in the world. When I watch a video where the creator was too lazy to edit it, and I see thousands of views I am annoyed. If only 3 views then well that's fine.

You might want to get a laser cutter instead. This is trivial to print on a standard FDM printer like the Ultimaker printers. Assuming it is a reasonable size (say 3cm to 20cm wide - you didn't say what country you are in - please update that in your profile settings location field). The only tricky part is the color change - I would probably print this as 3 different "parts" - the bottom and top black parts and a layer of white in the middle (like a sandwhich) but with no "shell" on that middle layer. This can be done by printing 3 separate parts and doing some editing of the gcode file results or you can put pauses in the print maybe and change filaments at the pauses (never tried this on UM2 - not sure if that will work). You could make a tiny plugin that does the gcode editing also if you are doing hundreds of different designs. Much easier would be to make it in separate parts that snap together. Here's something I printed on my UM2:

People don't want to watch a 9 minute video. If you can edit it down to 30 or 60 seconds that is very helpful. Or practice making the video 5 times before recording. Making good documentation or good video is a lot of work. Unfortunately.

I see - it's happening when you move from one fin to the next. I suspect that retraction isn't always happening. To make sure retraction always happens there are many settings. So for you make sure that #2 and #3 are both set to 0 for this print. This should reduce your stringing. Or you can try a different filament. I find that white PLA tends to string much more than other colors. For UM2, #5 and #6 are on the UM2 controller, not in cura.

Yes, that would be good to do if you move the nozzle over. But those numbers are only used if you are printing multiple objects in "one at a time" mode. That makes sure the head doesn't hit the previously printed object while printing the next object.

I think it's HIPS that clogs very easily in the nozzle. Make sure not to leave it in there long with a hot nozzle - basically you want to print on the fast side of things to keep the HIPS from clogging due to the heat. I could be wrong as I'm no expert - just repeating something I heard.

If you print in ABS you can smooth it nicely with a vapor of acetone. It comes out very smooth. I have never printed in HIPS and don't know anyone who has. Blue tape works fine hot or cold but make sure you wipe it clean first with isopropyl alcohol. The tape comes with a thin waxy layer to prevent the tape from sticking to itself so you need to remove that before printing on it. It comes off with very little work - just a quick wipe with alcohol soaked tissue or cotton ball.

Are you sure it isn't the *bottom* of the olsson block touching the fan shroud? Look at it from behind and try to insert a tooth pick or piece of paper or something.

You shouldn't have to move the block to the right side. You have several options... 1) If you do move the block to the right side you only have to worry about extra large prints. You might print off the right edge of the glass or you might hit the 4 clips because the position of the 4 clips is now "differenent". But as long as you print smaller things < 200mm you should be fine. 2) Use some kapton tape between the fan shroud and the block. Or just loosen the 4 screws and push the shroud over a tiny bit and retighten. 3) Use the same firmware I use. It is older but it works fine and doesn't get the heater error. I use 14.09. Check what firmware you have - the worst versions are 14.12 which often gets error. To install older firmware, get cura 14.09 and install that then connect to usb and "update" the firmware. You can see your firmware version using the control panel on UM2. Also anders has some versions of the firmware that will go to 290C I think. 4) You could get a higher wattage heater. UM2 is sold by default with 25W heater but sometimes they are out of spec and actually only 22W. 3dsolex sells 35W heaters. 5) It could be you only get the "heater error" when the fan comes on suddenly. You could try to make it come on more slowly.

It's not over extruding. The plastic on the horns is never cooling down to freeze point so it's staying liquid. You can do the "cool head lift" feature but it will come out much better if you simply print a small tower nearby for the printer to go over there and print positioned such that the fan blows on one of the horns at the same time. The teeth are much harder. I would do my own support in cad.

The guide wouldn't be about settings. It would be about what to do when your printer isn't working right. There are several hundred problems and solutions to things like underextrusion, rods falling out, motors not moving, heater error, temp error, limit switch issues and many others. Also things like how to print multiple parts one-at-a-time, why cura isn't slicing parts of my model, how to improve overhangs, how to improve support, how to finish a part (e.g. sanding, painting, acetone wash), how to deal with a part that is the same dimensions as the absolute printing limit of the machine, nozzle clogs, feeder grinding, printing cups that need to hold water... There's lots of issues people have. I'm glad it works out of the box for you but some people get "heater error" out of the box.