gr5

Well I could certainly be wrong! I received mine in the mail by itself and played around with it and that was the only way that seemed correct. To install it any other way won't it just fall off? I just looked at it again and thought about it again. The way I put it in seemed perfect - it's held down by the nozzle/block and held up by the fan shroud. It has the added bonus of keeping the fan shroud from touching the nozzle block. I'm pretty sure I did it correctly but have a message into support to see for sure.

A video would help - please post a 5 second video. Also indicate your country in your profile settings location. The extruder is supposed to turn both directions if it is printing something and doing a retraction. But maybe you mean it turns both directions before then? Again, a video would help. Usually if the servos are acting strangly, vibrating, stopping/starting, switching directions unexpectedly, usually that is caused by the stepper driver being too hot. Make sure the fan on the bottom is working properly! Also there could be a bad connection on the DIR signal to the extruder - it may be floating. More on that after you eliminate the first two possibilities.

Jeex - you should message Arjan directly and ask him to bring his printer. Or go visit him. He is in Netherlands also.

lol! No. The white part should be flat/flush with the bottom of the fan shroud. Did you remove the fan shroud and put the ring *above* the fan shroud? Read my post again. You have to remove the 4 screws, then the white ring slips nicely into the hole in the fan shroud from above. Then put the fan shroud back on.

I don't think anyone knows. I've heard "500 hours" but at what temperature? Maybe 500 hours at 230C and 1000 hours at 100C? And 10 hours at 260C? This is all a guess. I think it's different for different people because they tend to print at different temperatures. If you are printing at 290C all the time like Anders Olsson, then he has some alternative materials for you from 3dsolex.com (the IPM) but it is horrible for PLA. Then there is the i2k from 3dsolex that can keep the white isolator at 100C. But only if you do zero retractions. I think even though this machine is 2 years old everyone is still figuring this out. Most people simply know what works for them and tend to stick with that.

Daniel, what country are you in? Please update your location settings.

That's what I thought you meant. Read my post again. On rare occasions, some people have their part come off the bed and get dragged around by the nozzle and don't notice for a few hours. This can create a huge blob of liquid filament. This blob can enter *above* the fan housing through a thin ring around the nozzle and make quite a mess. This ring prevents that issue.

Yes, here: https://ultimaker.com/en/modifications-and-hacks/view/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=27 Watch the first video. Seems to work well. A few people on that list are doing it. Some with UMO, some with UM2.

c+p = copy paste? I'm sure people do it but you might not get a reply here as a lot of people left the forum a few months ago so most remaining are Ultimaker2 people. Try a Prusa or reprap forum?

Are you talking about a white ring part? It fills in the small metal gap between the nozzle and the metal fan shroud - remove the 4 screws on the shroud, put in the hole from above, then put the shroud back on over the nozzle and put the 4 screws back in. Or do you mean the 3dsolex i2k isolator black ring? That goes below the white teflon isolator - you have to take the head completely apart for that. Or is there a new thing?

Um - "never use default settings"?? I don't know what they are but I believe it does infill at a faster speed. You are probably already printing close to the limit for your given layer height and temperature and the infill speed is probably much faster. I think defaults are 50mm for shell and 80mm for infill. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

You can tell if something is wrong because the bowden slowly slides up until there is an air gap easily visible when looking at the print head from the side. Razor is fine - just make it very perpendicular and 2mm should be plenty - you can only take off 20mm or so before you need a new one (soon I will have some in my store gr5.org/store/).

This is very common on UMO and is caused by backlash which basically means the nozzle isn't moving all the way to where the stepper told it to go. Paradoxically it is most often caused by belts too tight or too loose. If the long belts are too tight the resistance can be very high to moving the head. If the long or short belts are too loose then the head isn't moving all the way to position either. Usually it's the short belts are too loose - loosen the 4 screws holding the motors, push down hard on the stepper and re-tighten. It's possible you need to lengthen the wood slots in the wall of the UMO but not likely. The long belts don't need to be very tight but if you pluck them they should emit a pitch discernible by the human ear (e.g. like the lowest note on piano). As opposed to slower than 10 times per second (not audible).

http://3dsolex.com

Including the nozzle? That was my first guess. After reading everything I'm thinking "feeder". The feeder should be able to push about 10 pounds (what country are you in - please update your location settings in your profile). when sliding filament through bowden by hand with everything cold and off - how much of that 10 pounds budget does it use? Probably not much. Test your feeder. Take a 2 foot length of filament and put it in the feeder, attach it to a bucket sitting on a scale on the floor. Use bungee cords and a vice-grip to connect the filament to the bucket. Start turning the feeder by hand. How much does the weight on the scale change? You should be able to do around 5kg or 10 pounds. if you can only do 2 pounds then we know the problem is the feeder. Here is a photo explaining how to do it - same procedure for UMO or UM2 - same approximate strength in the feeder for UMO or UM2:

@mfknjohn - that may help filament grinding but won't help the feeder from slipping backwards suddenly which is set by the current going to the stepper motor. First of all, spiralize is kind of a hack. You need to realize that it will do the shell in one pass so if you ask for a 1mm shell it is trying to overextrude by 600% (1mm/.4mm)^2 That's a lot! .6mm is much more reasonable. At that extreme I would print around 5mm/sec max I think. Just guesing. I'm wondering if when you printed the thingiverse item you messed up and didn't uncheck "spiralize" as that would explain your issues with that. If you still have problems please post *all* your settings. You can save your "profile" and then open that in notepad or any text editor and paste it in a posting here. There are many settings that seem like no big deal but can ruin your print - for example setting the shell to .6mm when your nozzle is .4mm (shell should always be integer multiple of nozzle unless you undestand the consequences) or your infill speeds. Or spiralize. Regarding waterproof - the spiralize feature was written for Joris and he uses .6mm nozzles (ask if you need to know where to get alternate nozzles) which gives you a much more watertight result although many people have been successful with .4mm nozzles. In general here are some guidelines for printing temperature and speed - if you are impatient go for 240C - it's a reasonable temperature to print at but you will get better quality at 210 and printing much slower. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

This is severe underextrusion. Probably your infill speed is too fast for your temperature and layer height settings. Notice that there is an infill speed that overrides the normal print speed. Don't use the quick mode settings as this hides all the print speeds. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

For the newer UM2's made in 2014 and 2015 I recommend you make this not-tight. Put the white marker all the way up. danilius has very good advice about bottom layer. Please post photos if you still have problems with bottom layer. Probably you are printing too cold/toof ast as danilius also mentions. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

Although sketchup is horrible at modeling real-world 3d items, it works. I used it for many years to design and print many 3d items. But not anymore. There are extensions you can add to sketchup that tests your parts to check for holes and so on. Learning a new CAD such that I was as good as that one (Design Spark Mechanical) as I was with Sketchup took a year. So I wouldn't switch to a new CAD if you are already a sketchup expert. CAD programs meant for designing real parts make it impossible to create non-manifold parts. Sketchup is designed to make immersive 3d virtual worlds. Great for architects to do a 3d walkthrough but horrible for making a print. Programs like solidworks are designed to make real things - not virtual things.

Washer isn't as good of a solution because having an air gap between the glass and the aluminum means the glass is much cooler than desired. Just get one of these inexpensive bits - you don't have to take anything apart - just remove one screw at a time and drill it out for a few seconds.

derek please update your country in your profile settings location field. Could you please take a photo of your hot end from the side and post? When it jams - how do you un-jam it? You said you used the atomic method to unjam it but can you explain more details? Maybe a photo of what it looks like when you pull the filament out. >What is the remedy if the clip holder DOESN'T hold the tube nicely? It's common for people not to hold down the tube-holder-clip when pulling out the bowden and it gets scraped such that it no longer holds well. Same parts for both UMO and UM2. If only the bowden is damaged just clip off 1 or 2 mm off the end of the bowden so the clip can hold a fresh spot on the bowden. However if one or more of the metal blades in the clip are bent or broken you should buy a new one. They are very cheap. I sell them but I only ship to NA. 3dsolex.com also sells them for a reasonable price.

I like around 4.5mm for retraction on UMO. I have printed lots of things at 240C no problem. If you are printing pretty fast then you need to print pretty hot. Here is a table of my recommended max speeds for different temperatures for PLA and at .2mm layers (.1mm layers print twice as fast): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usulaly with some grinding of the filament. How tight is your spring - my spring on the feeder, when the filament is loaded and feeder is closed is 11mm and Simon's is 10.5mm. Does your part have tons of retractions? For example if you have 1000 retractions all at 4.5mm then that is 4.5 meters of retractions. If you have 4.5 meters of filament that's not bad - about 1 retraction at every spot. But if you have 10 retractions or 100 retractions for every spot then you are likely to grind up your filament.

The most common cause of this problem is that the screw heads for the 3 leveling screws are sticking up and lifting the glass into a saddle shape. If this is your case, remove the screws and drill them out a little deeper with a counter sink drill bit. The next most common is where DHL shipping seemingly put your ultimaker tilted onto one foot and then pushed down on the opposite top corner until the entire printer is warped into a parellelogram. This is obvious because your printer will rock back and forth and only touch with 3 feet at a time. This is fixable by compressing the 2 corners that are now farthest apart using an elephant to sit on it or something similar. Some people add a washer or other thin thing under the glass on the 2 "low" corners. This works pretty well.

Please post german language only in german part of the forums. Is this a UM2 or UMO or something else? This problem is rare on a UM2 but common on the UMO and other printers. It is caused by "backlash". But backlash is complicated. Backlash means that the print head isn't moving all the way to the postition that the stepper is moving to. It is caused either by: A ) Belts too loose such that the head doesn't move all the way. B ) Friction too high such that the head doesn't move all the way. B is easy to test for - just push the print head around with power off. Make sure the resistance is about the same. A is also easy to test for - pluck the belts like playing a guitar string - particular the 2 short belts to the XY steppers. If an X or Y stepper belt is loose, loosen the 4 screws going to the stepper, then push down hard on the stepper as you tighten them back up again. Before doing that remove the cover that hides the stepper (one or two screws depending on when your UM2 was made).