gr5

What is happening is once they are created and it is printing a layer above, it does a retraction but there is a slight convexity to the liquid plastic at the base of the nozzle hole. As it passes over the previous "staircase" this touches the liquid plastic and pulls out the tiniest bit more such that the next step on the staircase is moved over a bit. This repeats until it gets long enough that it droops low enough that the nozzle passes over the staircase and doesn't touch it. Try a different color filament from UM and you should be fine. The light blue tends to be much worse with this than other colors because it is less viscous at 210C than "normal" filaments. Or like I said, lower the temp.

Unfortunately Illuminarti is extremely busy handling USA UM customer support and rarely visits the forum. And Daid is angry that UM changed the forum -- I haven't seen any of his posts lately either. So I doubt those 2 will help you. But maybe someone else will.

I have no idea why you think witbox or wasp will be any better. I'm pretty sure there are zero companies out there offering a 3d printer that is as easy to use as a paper printer. Not form1. Even the $50,000 printers are hard to use. There's nothing as far as I know.

By the way alternatively you could buy a .25mm nozzle - this will print .18mm shell just fine.

It's too thin. I had to go down to a 0.18mm nozzle to get it to all show up. You can do that if you want - tell Cura you want 0.18mm shell and it will slice and it will work but it will be a bit underextruded because the actual nozzle is 0.4mm (not .18mm). You can then tell it to use flow of 200% and you will get an okay print. But ideally you should fix the cad model so the walls are at least 0.8mm thick.

I call that "stringing". Is retraction on? Those are very easy to remove later as they are barely connected. Ultimaker blue is particularly bad with stringing. You can probably get them by lowering temperature to say 200C but you may then get underextrusion - so if for example you are doing 200C and .2mm layers then your top speed should be 20mm/sec. So it might not be worth lowering the temp that much. Try a different filament too if you have it.

Strange. Could it be the filament is too thick? Like 3.05mm? Instead of the typical 2.85mm? So are you using the "change filament" procedure? Is the motor turning slowly as you feed it in? It should be. And push hard upwards - like 5 pounds force - enough to almost lift the printer up in the air.

@valcrow please mark peggyb's first reply as the "correct answer", thanks.

Nice one, Peggy! Good catch. The difference between no fan and a little bit of fan is theoretically infite (0 miles per hour versus 1 miles per hour is more than 2X. It's more than 10X). But of course in reality there is some convection without the fan so there is a tiny bit of wind. But even a very weak fan cools maybe 10X or 100X better than no fan. Getting the fan up to full speed might add another 2X to 4X cooling. Which may be relatively very little improvement. That's why even a very slow fan can make a huge difference. I discovered this years ago when doing temp measurements on an electric part. I was experimenting with different fan speeds and the part never changed temperature. Until the fan was off - then the part got very hot.

Actually the bug fix might be in "normal" "erikZalm" Marlin but it might never have gotten into the ultimaker branches of Marlin. The bug and probably the fix were posted in the erikZalm branch of marlin on github a year or two ago by "Illuminarti" aka "Simon" so it shouldn't be too hard to search for that patch and then see if it got pulled into Daid's versions of Marlin for UMO and/or UM2.

Definitely. There was a bug in Marlin that happened when you moved all 3 axes at the same time. I thought the bug was fixed approximately a year ago but maybe not. The bug meant that it would move some axes faster than they are supposed to move (but again, only if you move all 3 axes at the same time). Normal Cura generated gcode never (or rarely) moves all 3 axes at the same time.

Typically in USA you get extremely fast support. And if you buy from 3dverkstaan - also I suspect very fast support. But in spain... UM recently hired more support staff and I heard they service tickets within 48 hours usually (first response sooner). But maybe it's worse again, not sure.

I have had success printing small nylon parts (60mm by 30mm at base). Advice varies. I have tried two different nylons and the "Taulman Bridge" was definitely easier. I have two critical questions for you before giving you any advice: 1) Which company and brand of nylon are you using? 2) What do you mean by "warp"? Usually people mean the part lifts off the print bed - that's the simplest problem to fix and the most common. But maybe you mean something different?

It *is* built for extreme conditions. It just doesn't get tested for months and months in those conditions by every engineer in the company. That's all. For some lucky people it *is* "plug and use". But for most people it's just nothing like a paper printer as far as simplicity and reliability. There aren't any printers like that on the market as far as I can tell. I've talked to dozens of people who have a UM and one or two other branded printers and they ALL say the UM is the best.

I don't like the filament guides. I usually print with the filament on the floor so that it enters the feeder vertically. Especially on the UM2GO which is even worse (the feeder is even lower on the printer compared to the filament spool).

That sounds smart. @fixup please indicate what country you live in on your profile settings. Let us know if your printer works properly when you get it back.

So erging es mir auch. Es stellte sich heraus das Moped Block wurde Berühren des Metalllüfterhaube. Ich musste die rotierende Düse etwas mehr von der Rundmutter zu erhöhen.

So when I designed my wiring I looked up the specs of all the parts and used the recommended wiring. What a mistake. I got very thick, very heavy wiring. It all works but EVERYONE who looks at my wiring is like WTF? Why such heavy wires? It made for efficient wiring but inneficient extra weight. I don't remember any of the specifics but this is something I may revisit some day (it's tough to be motivated when I have 5 other changes I want and it works as is). I don't know the actual values (current/wire size) anymore. I just know I tried to follow recommendations and it was silly. I think the recommendations were for current through 20 foot wires maybe and irrelevant for my short cabling? I don't know. Or maybe my actual current draw was about 1/3 of expected? Not sure.

It may be safest to get a UM Original. The UMO is not called the UM1 because it keeps evolving. Many/most of the advantages of the UM2 over the UMO have since been incorporated into the UMO (better temp sensor, heated bed, metal bed, newer circuit board). So maybe. Possibly. After the UM3 comes out (I assume there will be such a thing some day) UM will hopefully incorporate the most important things back into the UMO and there may be upgrade kits or simply parts you can print.

The answer to that question depends on the type of UM printer you have. Please update your user profile to indicate that you have a UM2 and what country you live in as many answers vary depending on the country. On the UM2, normally, you control the temp in the material settings. However you can also alter them in the UM2 TUNE menu live as you print or using a plugin inside Cura, or by editing the gcode file manually, or by switching to "reprap" gcode style (not recommended). The main way to do it is in material settings. ABS needs high temperatures for good layer adhesion - if not you will get parts that break easily along layers. It helps immensely to use low fan. Or no fan at all. I usually do 30% max fan and only for bridging or overhangs. If the part is simple (say a cube, lol) then no fan at all. The fan settings can be tweaked in material settings also so that you can slice a part and not worry if you print in PLA or ABS. But I tend to mess with the fan settings only in Cura. It's kind of bad to mix PLA and ABS often. ABS needs higher temps which can mess with the isolator more quickly and then when you switch to PLA suddenly you get underextrusion. But if you stick with only ABS you will be fine printing happily at 260C for months. I don't print much ABS so I usually do 245C but that tends to be weaker than normal parts (but plenty strong for most things!). ABS experts I believe tend to print at 250-260C.

Oh - you asked how to change the bed temp. The easiest way is you can mess with all kinds of settings in the TUNE menu while printing. But if you want it to happen automatically there is a "tweakAtZ" plugin that should do it for you. Feel free to try lower bed temperature but I have tried this and I can tell you it will usually make the part come off the bed completely because the glass and the part shrink at different amounts as they cool.

First of all the corner that you circled in red looks perfect to me - it looks just like your blue CAD image - rounded corners. The lifting is caused because the upper layers cool to air temperature and shrink pulling very hard inward on the upper layers. Imagine someone stretched a rope from two opposite top corners of your part after it had printed 30 layers and pulled that rope very tight. What would give first? The bottom corners. If brim wasn't enough add glue. 60C actually works better than 50C which works better than 30C on the plate for different reasons. At about 40C and hotter, the when the bottom layer is created the filament takes longer to cool and spreads out like honey and there is less air between the glass and the filament so there is more surface area and it sticks better. Also at 60C you are now above the glass temperature of PLA (about 52C) and the part is more likely to warp the bottom 5 layers every so slightly than to lift off the bed. The warpage is so incredibly tiny that you can't see it and probably can't measure it but it releives the stresses enough to keep the part from lifting off the bed. At 70C you get a new problem - lets not go there now. For glue - use glue stick or elmers wood glue. put some on the glass bed and then add 10 parts water and mix it around with a tissue or paint brush on the glass until it's very thin. When it dries the glue should be invisible (unless you scrape it back up with your finger nail or a knife). This will stick very well and if you are having trouble removing the part, let it cool to room temperature first.

50mm/sec .2mm layer .4 nozzle is 4mm^3/sec. Which is really pusing it at 210C. And some temp sensors read high so you might actually be closer to 205C or even 200C. If you really want to print this fast I recommend 240C which works great at these relatively high (but still reasonable) printing volumes. Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. If you want to print parts much faster than this then I recommend getting a larger nozzle such as a .6mm nozzle.

There aren't any good solvents. Instead use heat. Hot water would work but electronics doesn't like water so maybe just a hair dryer. It doesn't take much heat to loosen PLA. I think you broke one of your cables while trying to clean things out - maybe the heater cable. After you get it cleaned off better there are two cables that go to the heater/nozzle assembly. the larger diameter one (4mm) is the heater and the smaller diameter one (3mm) is the temp sensor. It's very important to watch the first layer to make sure the part is sticking well but you certainly don't have to stare at the printer the whole time. I've done plenty of prints where 8 hours of the print occurred while I slept. But I wouldn't leave it for more than 20 minutes at a time until you are getting consistently reasonable results.

It looks to me like it skips over several lines of gcode for no apparent reason. And it jumps several layers all at once. It makes kind of a "thunk" sound but I think that's the Z drive running normally. In other words I think it's a software issue and not a hardware issue but I could be wrong. You can tell which it is by looking at the completed robot very very carefully. If it's happing on non-vertical walls -such as at the shoulder then it shoul be printing the next layer not just much too high off the robot but also more towards the center than expected because the shoulders are sloped inward and it skipped a few layers. Am I being clear? Or if it didn't move inward then maybe it *is* a mechanical problem. But in the video it looks like the Z screw rotated suddenly quite a bit.