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Nylon would be good also. e.g. google "taulman nylon filament 3mm".

There's nylon also. I plan to try some tomorrow if I can get to it...

Something's wrong with "theeasypc.co.uk". Can only load a tiny piece of that photo. Please go to "gallery" (top left corner of this page). Then upload your picture there. Then start a new post and click "my media" next to the smiley face and insert your upload picture into a post. I refreshed this page 9 times. I loaded a debugger. I just can't get the photo to load more than a little bit. It's still transferring now as I wrote this but nothing is happening.

>Precisely in time Precisely in time. In other words if you send a gcode to change the acceleration (or do it from the front panel) it seems to happen about 10 line segments *after* that gcode because Marlin has already planned 10 line segments in advance. I don't know if it's exactly 10 or if it's 20 or what. But I would guess between 10 and 30 from my experience with how long it takes to speed up or slow down when you mess with the feed rate. It's the same amount of delay. Edit: changed "cura" to "Marlin". I meant Marlin.

Finally when things are dialed in print a real big version! It will probably take 10 hours but it will be worth it!

Printing 2 at once will help with the top but you may get stringing. But to print 2 make sure you set your "gantry height" in machine settings to 0. Verify that it isn't printing one at a time in slice view. To reduce stringing keep things cool and print possibly even slower. For example 190C at 30mm/sec is about right with this blue PLA filament on the UM2. You might also want to turn off the heated bed and use the blue tape on cold glass. You might have to relevel with the blue tape adding a small thickness. But try without leveling first as the UM2 tends to just have it's extruder motor do some "clicking" if the head is too close. No big deal.

First make sure nozzle is not super hot - must be below 200C or so (you'll see why in a second). Then choose "Print", then choose anything to print. At this point it heats the nozzle and waits. Then go to "TUNE" Once you are in tune it will not print until you exit so you can take your time. Go to fan setting and turn to 100%. When done testing fans, hit the power switch (otherwise it will start homing and printing).

Strange! Mine is the other way! https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=5945427785042169890&oid=116840894901841820072

There should be one missing - the one for the second extruder which I assume you don't have.

Printing from USB is possible but unsupported and not recommended. USB is flaky and if you print a 5 hour print and it fails half way through you will not be happy. However by all means go for it - hopefully someone else will actually be able to answer your question. I think this question was answered on these forums in the last 2 day or so - probably by Daid.

1) Does the green light come on and stay on when you power the UM? 2) Does the fan underneath the UM come on? 3) Do you have a volt meter? Check the voltages at IC1 - remove the fan and cover - it is in the corner near fan and gets the most air from the fan and should be lifted into the air path. It converts 19V to 12V. It has 3 pins. One is at 19V, one at ground, the other at 12V. Don't leave UM powered up without the cover and fan for more than 20 seconds at a time as this particular part will get very hot. 4) If everything working so far, consider removing the Arduino and plugging it in separately through USB. The USB cable powers it up. If you remove it TAKE YOUR TIME - be careful not to bend any pins - pry on one side, then the other, then repeat gradually. Arduino's are very inexpensive and available everywhere. UM will send you a new board or new Arduino or new power supply once you diagnose this or you can just fix stuff yourself.

Strange. Okay so when you measured 5V at the pink/blue was that with no connector connected? I don't even know if these are supposed to be 5V or 12V fans. I don't think the schematic has been posted online yet. I think it will get posted 6 months from the shipment of first UM2. If I were you I would download pronterface (it's free and simple). Connect a USB cable to the um2 and connect to it with pronterface. Then issue this command to turn on the side fans fully: M106 S255 (255 is full 127 is 50% and so on). M107 turns fans off. Make sure the side fans come on, if so, disconnect one and plug in the rear fan. This will test the fans for sure. You can also measure the voltage to see if it is 5V or 12V for the working fans (although they are in series so maybe it will be 6V? I don't know how it's supposed to work!). edit OH! You can turn the fans on with the maintenance menu! I forgot. So you don't need pronterface.

There's lots to choose from! (what country are you in? Can you set that in your profile please?) I've only printed regular PLA so I'll let someone else answer.

How does it know what to print? Do you have an ulticontontroller? Did you select something to print?

You might want to replace it with a switching regulator instead - less likely to ever break again. Discussion about this today over on google groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/4CWoBH7Odm4

I also printed on plain fresh blue tape and it took over 30 pounds force! I couldn't push hard enough and had to turn the screw driver sideways to pry it off (then it came off with 30 pounds force). With alcohol it sticks much more - probably over 100 pounds force but I would probably damage my bed. Of course if you are printing something that is warping and you keep it above 60C, the part will be too soft to pull very hard at the corners. So that is probably why a heated bed works better for very large parts that warp.

I don't think you can change the acceleration that precisely. Marlin plans out many segments in advance. That's why when you change the speed setting on the UC it takes a little while before anything happens. The same is true with acceleration settings. So you have to adjust accel something like 30 line segments ahead of time.

I recommend you stick with the folded plastic fan duct that comes with the UM. It works incredibly well. If you melt part of it then you can easily repair it with kapton tape.

Well the M907 and M908 commands don't affect the extruder in any way. I tried: M907 E20 M907 E0 M907 E255 M907 S20 M907 S0 M908 P0 S0 M908 P1 S0 M908 P2 S0 M908 P3 S0 M908 P4 S0 Nothing affected the current to the extruder motor. At least it had the same amount of power before it skips regardless. I did all this through pronterface. Maybe you have to put it on the SD card for it to work?

Oh - and don't leave this powered up for more than 20 seconds at a time - don't want to overheat anything with that fan disconnected!

Does the fan come on when you power on? Either way, put your ultimaker on it's side or back and remove the bottom cover. I'm guessing the bad part is the one in the top left corner here - it's the part cooled the most by the fan: Also known as IC1. The schematic is here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.4_PCB Eagle software for opening it is here: http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/ Although the 1.5.7 schematic is actually more useful. Anyway probe those 3 pins on IC1. One should be at ground, one at 19V and the 3rd should be at 12V. I would check that first.

This is very very common and easy to fix. Once you figure it out. Illuminarti mentions the top 2 things: pulley loose or belt touching frame (you can tell if it touches frame as it twists each time it changes direction). There are 6 set screws to tighten on the 6 pulleys for the Y axis. Not 4. Six. Make sure you get them all. The two most likely are the 2 hardest to get to (on the short belt). Tighten the heck out of them. Also the pulleys come with black set screws but with your kit you should have gotten shiny screws that work better. I still use my black ones but next time I have to tighten them I plan to change them out.

Could you tell us exactly what acceleration you went to? I think the default might be 9000.

Looking again at the photos - the changes in color are always at the same heights. And the heights are more than 3mm apart (spacing of lead screw threads). This makes me think the leadscrew has some non-linearities. I would consder taking it out and cleaning it. Maybe use WD40 and a rag and clean all the cracks with a tooth brush. Then dry it and re-apply grease and put it back together.

The quality issues you are having with these cubes is near the limit of what the UM can do. I think your particular filament is showing up errors more than most filaments so they are more visible. For example white filament tends to hide these kinds of errors. However it is definitely possible to improve the quality more than what you are seeing now. I think Z issues are a good place to start, but not just the screw - are there other things that might affect this? Something that the bed bounces against? Maybe if you add a weight to the bed to keep it from vibrating? Try printing at half normal speed just to see if this helps quality - also try dropping your XY acceleration value in half - this is controlled easily with the ulticontroller - if you don't have one let me know and I'll explain how to do it. When you change acceleration, the values go back to default when you power cycle the Ultimaker. So if you prefer different acceleration values you need to "save" them.