gr5

Putting that little hole - at that spot - centered on the filament - and so close - makes it very unlikely that the filament will go off the edge. Love that. Clever.

Yes. So if your print has lots of corners and short line segments then obviously it is printing much slower than the requested speed. In every case I could print quite a long distance before pressure got high enough for it to "click" (loose steps). When it *does* lose steps it loses a lot! Also this was in open air. When you press the nozzle close to the print and are trying to extrude into a small area the pressures might be even higher and you might have to print even slower. But I think this is probably not as serious a factor. So you can probably print fully up to the speeds I published.

Okay. So if the code works, then: 1250ma is default stepper current - in another post, Daid said that higher currents than 1250ma didn't pull any harder on the filament. 2/3 of this is applied for when feeding filament (833ma) 2000ma is the max current M907 S255 Sets XY,Z,E currents all to 2000ma M907 E255 Should set just E axis M907 B255 set's some "other" stepper current to 2 amps? WTF? B=Bed? B=Burner? Oh! Maybe this is extruder B? edit: confirmed that "B" is the second extruder when UM gets around to selling this. There is also M908 (not sure why) where you can do more complete control: M908 P1 S255 which sets something to full value but I don't know the "P" (pin) values as Robert didn't include that part. M908 seems dangerous so I wouldn't mess with it. edit: with more info from Robert I see that M908 P0 S255 M908 P1 S200 is the same as M907 X255 Y200

Ah! Of course I should have done that! I will do that when I get a chance. Maybe tonight. Probably not (I play volleyball thursday nights).

That above quote was from clinton over on google groups.

yes! Also: yes - brim is good for this kind of thing.

Yikes. Why bother? Sometimes support snaps off in less than a second as a single piece. Sometimes I have to get the dremel out and spend 20 minutes cleaning even a tiny part. More useful would be to look at the gcode, know the acceleration and jerk settings and calculate the REAL time to print. Right now Cura just assumes every print line segment is printed at the full speed but in reality it accelerates and decelerates at every vertex. Plus retraction takes time - maybe 1 second for each retraction and prime motion. Is this for a college research paper?

There are several things you can do to reduce stringing. Lower temps help: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ Slow speeds helps. Change retraction back to 4.5mm and 40mm/sec. 70mm/sec actually moves slower because of a Marlin bug. 6mm is too much and lets in air into the nozzle. Also add this to your extruder to keep the tube from moving up and down at the extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Try 20mm/sec at 190C? I know that's extremely slow but you are likely to see zero retraction with that setting. You should be able to go much faster depending on the type of filament, layer height, and more. But at 190C you can't squeeze as much filament out so if you want to print faster you might have to increase the temp a bit.

I think it is still printable. Print 3 at once and set "gantry height" in the machine settings to 0 so it prints them at the same time. It will alternate between the 3 prints and the other two will have time to cool. It's the trick I used to print these little people: Also set temp to 190C and print at 20mm/sec and I hope your retraction is dialed in nicely or you might get lots of stringing among the 3 parts.

Both. Daid already had 2 (two!) issues with reading the SD card. The second one hasn't been fixed. Mix in some new brands and ... well... yikes - who knows. You don't want to risk it for any print slower than an hour.

I see that now. I thought maybe you printed closer together in another experiment (.4mm apart) to be more realistic with what Cura does. Didn't realize they would cling together like that even though so far apart.

I did another test tonight. I wanted to determine max extrusion rates. I don't know how to adjust the "trimpot current". See daid's new M907 and M908 codes here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/SecretMarlin I don't know how they work and I don't know if I can increase the stepper current for the extruder. But for now, with Marlin 13.10-5, these appear to be the maximum extrusion rates for the UM2: Here they are in table form: temp max volume max speed with .2mm layers 180C 1.59 mm³/sec 20mm/sec 190C 2.97 mm³/sec 37mm/sec 200C 4.24 mm³/sec 53mm/sec 210C 5.59 mm³/sec* 70mm/sec 220C 7.00 mm³/sec 87mm/sec 230C 8.25 mm³/sec* 103mm/sec 240C 9.54 mm³/sec 120mm/sec * means it was derived but you can see from the graph that it is VERY linear. I got these values by sending extrude commands to the printer. Typically I extruded 5mm to 10mm of filament at different temps and speeds until I found the max speed with no "clicking". For example: G1 F67 E7 Was the max speed I could go with no skipping at 220C. F67 is 67mm per minute or 7mm³/sec. DO NOT TRY TO PRINT OVER THESE VALUES! At least I strongly discourage it. So if you are printing .1mm layer height (and um2 has .4mm nozzle) and you want to print at 220C your max print speed is 7/.1/.4=175mm/sec. But if you are printing .2mm layers your max speed 87mm/sec. If you go over these values you will get lots of under extrusion. This was for the blue ultimaker PLA that came with my UM2. I know I can print a bit faster than this with my UM original so people who are trying to print just as fast a throughput of PLA may have underextrusion issues. Note that at 240C, .1mm layer height you can print up to 240mm/sec without any underextrusion. Other brands and colors of PLA will vary. Plus I think there is a way to mess with the current to the E-stepper (increase it) but I don't know anything about this yet. Daid? The formula to derive these values for any nozzle temperature is: mm³/sec = (temp - 168)*.133 mm/sec = Volume (mm³/sec) / layer height / .4mm (nozzle width)

Are you in Germany? Is "de" deutchland? Or "denmark"? EVERYONE READING THIS PLEASE UPDATE YOUR LOCATION IN YOUR PERSONAL PROFILE. At top click your name and drop down, choose "my profile" then choose "edit my profile" and at least tell me what country you guys all live in. Thanks! If you are in USA please at least mention the State or a nearby City. Is that too much privacy violation? Once you post your country someone may mention an easy place to get acetone that you hadn't thought of. In USA it is found at your neighborhood hardware store.

You should be careful. I almost missed this. You changed the subject here and then went back to the original subject. This is very very likely caused by electrical interference between the fan and the hot end temp sensor. In Cura 13.10 the fan goes from 0% to 100% between layer 1 and 2. In cura 13.11 the fan goes to 5%, then 7%, then 11% and so on for about 20 layers (not sure the algorithm - daid posted somewhere - it may have more to do with height than layer qty). To make the fan run at 5% it turns the fan on and off many times per second. This creates a lot of electrical noise and if your fan cable is close to your thermocouple - especially *before* it reaches the amplifier board - then the temp will be so noisy that it will read out random values +/- 15 degrees each time. So look for your fan cables carefully and look for the thermocouple cables *before* they reach the tiny circuit board on the print head and push these wires farther apart. You want at least 10mm.

@abstract: The UM2 retracts at the end of every print. A lot. Maybe 10mm of the full 3mm wide filament. That's a lot! And extrudes the same amount plus a little extra at the start. If instead you heat up the bed and nozzle before printing, and then when the nozzle is >= 180C you extrude some manually - not that much just get it back in the head. Then you start your print that major extrusion (10mm?) should get it primed nicely. Make sure you grab the end of the priming filament and hold it away from the start of your print!

Ouch. I don't recommend it. but I don't know the answer.

I like #3 above. This is very common and it might not ride up very much to make the click. I looked specifically for this in the video but it happens so fast in real life I'm not sure it would be visible in any video. It could be on short or long belts but usually happens on the long belts. If it's #3 then the belts will start to wear away. Plus you will get black rubber powder in the area where it happens.

FYI - David's nickname online is "Daid". He and Sander work for UM and live in Netherlands. The remaining people who posted on this topic above me do not work for UM. I do not work for UM either. That must be the printer that IAN got!!!! My UM2 had a fan connector issue that I fixed in just a few minutes. Other than that it is printing great. But it is still early - I only just got it Monday. "a walk through the flowers". Yes - quite the endorsement! On the other hand everyone on this forum is biased towards UM. Ian I think forgot all the crap troubles he had getting his UM1 to work and expected the UM2 to be perfect and got a broken one to boot. Ian will forget all this in a few months and when the UM3 comes out he will be once again frustrated. Ian is great but I think he forgot how frustrating the UM1 was.

Can you post a few photos of both ends of the belt and the sliding block? Something sounds seriously wrong. Or maybe your belt is defective. Did you watch the above video yet?

Well cor3ys I've learned a bit since you posted this picture: Namely I have one of my own. That picture shows the problem nicely. The belt needs to be lined up with the rod. So after you push the rod back in, loosen the set screw on that upper pulley in the picture. Then slide the pulley so it is perfectly centered above the rod in the picture (the lower rod). Then retighten the heck out of the pulley. When it is centered, the black spacer should be now touching the case and doing it's job. Now of course the *other* side will be loose so you need to fix that side also. edit: actually the other side is probably fine.

Yay! Next print 3! Just kidding. Well if you find you need to improve quaility more: 1) .2mm layers often comes out better than .1mm layers. It's counter-intuitive. But if there is any error in Z it shows up worse with .1mm layer because some layers are over extruded followed by an underextruded layer. If your Z has no stickiness or slipping and the z nut doesn't move and everything is perfect then .1mm might look better. 2) slow it down even more if you want high quality. For a small part I would lower from your 70mm/sec to 20mm/sec. It's so small it won't take that long. Be patient. I learned that from watching the UM people at the MakerFaire NYC. They have banks of dozens of printers in a room so they don't care if it takes 20 hours for a print! 3) If you are going that slow, consider maybe also going even cooler to 190C or even 180C only just to lower the stringing issue. Printing 2 parts means lots of stringing and that can be elimintated at 190C usually. Or if the second part is nice and big like a 10mm cube with 20% infill.

I think you need to take a better picture of the first item. And put an arrow to the spot that you don't like. I don't see any under-extrusion - it's just a little blurry on the "worst spot". Under-extrusion can be caused by many things and a "tangle" is quite common - especially if the filament is falling off the reel. Especially on a new reel. Or if you don't push the reel against the back of the UM. But... there are 10 other causes for under-extrusion. One being dust and your objects look very dusty. But I'm not convinced you have any under-extrusion - so please zoom in or clip the photograph closer in to just the bad area and make sure it's clear. Part's of your photographs are amazing - I can see each .1mm layer like rice farms in China. Like steps in a stair case - so perfectly flat. And I can see a weird oscillation. Maybe caused from the original STL file.

Resin printers like Formlabs only print ONE material. I know little about that material. I don't know if it can handle temperatures found in a hot car on a sunny day. ABS can. Normal PLA can't. I don't know if you can change the color. I don't know if you can get multilple colors. But the UM can print dozens of material types and lots of colors. The UM can print nylon, PLA and ABS all easily. And there are many varieties of PLA including PLA45, PLA90, PLA with wood or stone powder mixed in, PLA with carbon fibers mixed in. But right now the B9Creator only prints in red or another shade of red. Those are the only 2 colors and they are both red. That is typically the biggest reason for not getting a resin printer - the material you get out of it. On the plus side they are AMAZINGLY precise and small and accurate. On the negative side they have all the same issues as a FDM printer regarding support, overhangs. e.g. you can't print someone's face easily on either printer because the chin and nose hang over "thin air". There are tricks! But it's a challenge.

I have never printed with ABS but I read a lot. Most people heat the bed up. very hot. And they create "ABS glue" by mixing some spare ABS with acetone and letting it dissolve for a few hours. Then paint the "glue" onto the glass bed. Let it "dry" and then print on that. Should stick like you wouldn't believe. You may have trouble getting it off the glass although if you let the glass cool completely, the difference in thermal expansion of the 2 materials will help quite a bit. You can also paint on blue tape but it will destroy your tape getting the part off. You will need razor blades. You can then soak the bottom of your part in acetone for a few minutes and the tape should slide off. Most people don't seem to use raft anymore. But I can see how it is nice as it flexes as the part shrinks and still hangs tight.

I don't know much about raft at this point, but in advanced settings there is a "gap" you can set in the support material section ("Distancy X/Y (mm)". Set that to zero and compare in Cura "slice view" to see if that helps.