gr5

He has a fan aimed at the print head instead of at the print bed. For some people, especially with V1 print head design, heat slowly goes up the print head. Especially if you have lots of retraction that pulls the heat up allowing warmer filament to touch the inside walls. Then eventually it gets hot enough to soften the PLA and you get upper-print-head clogs. Usually the clogs happen only after a long time. For example after 5 hours of printing.

I love that thingiverse part. While you are printing it, or on your next print, remove the extruder from the back of the UM. Don't panic - it's much safer than riding a bicycle with no hands! Notice how much quieter the UM is. If it is still noisy then this part won't help you. For me removing the extruder from back panel makes a big difference.

I suspect all the confusion is over which relay pin is which. I think either you have it wrong, or the engineer had it wrong. I would triple check which relay pin is where and mark up your little proto board with pin numbers. Then check it again. Then check it again. It's confusing if you think the wiring diagram is top view but it is actually bottom view. Check that when no power is applied there is zero ohms resistance (or at least less than 1 ohm) between pin 30 and 87a. If this is not true, then you are confused about the relay pin numbering. You could additionally check the coil resistance - it should be something on the order of 10 ohms to 1000 ohms. And with power off ping 30 to 87 should be an open (very high ohms) although your other electronics may make it look like as low as 3 ohms. But certainly it should be more than 1 ohm resistance with everything powered off. I can certainly say with confidence that I have no idea where for example pin 30 is on that thing.

Oh! And please post your handle! We'd love to see it. Maybe post a photo of the cad drawing in Cura.

You can either set shell thickness to 200mm or you can set fill density to 100. Both give very different results but in both cases you get 100% solid part. Solid parts take MUCH longer to print, are not much stronger, and tend to warp much more (shrinking plastic pulls). Your part may lift off the bed if it is solid (while you print) or you may experience other troubles. Definitely wipe your blue tape with isopropyl alcohol to clean off the was that comes with the blue tape. This will increase your sticking power by around 5X. Consider setting shell thickness to say 5mm instead of completely solid. If this handle needs to lift 200 pounds, maybe 10mm shell? The infill isn't for strength as much as general support to hold it together until the print is done (people will disagree with me on this!). I've printed many parts with 3 passes on the shell (1.2mm shell) and zero infill.

Very beautiful. First I would seriously consider a different slicer. Vases are special cases. Try kisslicer maybe. If you want to stick with Cura, look at the part in slice view and try to find these strings. They will show up as blue lines (blue means non-extruding). Check to see if there is a vertical movement shown in slice view - you need the latest cura 13.11 to see this for a UM2 print as there is a bug in Cura 13.10 where it doesn't show the vertical blue line on retraction for UM2 in slice view (even though retraction is there). If there is no vertical line it is likely (possible) that Cura is not retracting. But if it is then the usual ways to fix stringing are available to you. Basically you can reduce stringing by lowering the temperature to as low as you can go. I would do a stringing test first. But if I want to eliminate stringing typically I just go to 190C and print slower - like 20mm/sec. This may not be an option for you as your Vase might take days to print - not sure. You might want to buy a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) before you start a multi-day print. Here's how I did my tests on stringing (first photo): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

I have a theory! I think Cura is shaking your machine harder. It may have found a resonant frequency. If you put some bricks under your machine or move your machine to a different (lighter or heavier) table, or more likely clamp a heavy weight to your print bed or if you change your XY acceleration settings (Cut them in half) Cura might be okay. Resonant frequency would be when the head moves back and forth at the same speed as your entire machine shakes (or just the platform). I would use strong paper clips and clip something to the wood of your print bed to change the resonant frequency to a lower frequency.

Well I'm not sure that candles are safe either. Also cooking with oil - especially in a hot Wok - will yield similar results. So we may learn some day that working at mcdonalds near the french fry machine is really bad for your health but at this point I think we can assume it's probably safe. Or the risk of lung cancer is acceptibly low. Same goes for 3D printing. But only time will tell. All 3 of these activities involve heating a hot oily substance (PLA is basically made from corn oil).

Sander is very busy so in case he doesn't answer - I'm going to guess about 5 weeks for the UM2 and less than a week for the UM1 kit. UM1 kits I'm pretty sure are boxed on the shelves and ready to ship. UM1 assembled - no idea - could be 1 week, could be 5 weeks. Don't get a UM1 assembled. For not much more money you can get the UM2. The UM1 kit however is great.

Well you better figure it out. Each line is a wire. That's basically it. Are you *sure* about those pin numbering? Are you *sure* nothing is connected to pin 30???? That's just never going to work without connecting *something* to pin 30! Well that works also, but no, I meant the red wire at the psu and the white/blue wire at the psu. Check the manual for the psu. I think you have to short those 3 screws together. See if it explains about the "adj" pin. Does it need to be shorted to the +V pin?

Here is how it *should* be. I did it with the fewest possible moves of wires from the old way to a way that works.

Oh wait - I messed up. The two pins on the UM board don't simply go to a relay like I drew it. I guess it *is* possible that this will throw the relay. But the other side of the relay doesn't go anywhere (pin 30) so you won't get any power going to the heated bed. This is so messed up you are very lucky you didn't break anything. I'll redraw how it *should* be wired and you can fix it...

Hmm. Well I can't tell which pins of the relay are which so I can't really confirm much of the circuit other than the quantities match up. Are you sure you got the pins right? If you did it the way you described, there is no way that realy would ever turn on. It would never "click". Check your wiring again. I think you are confused about which pins are which on the relay. I know I am because I can't see the underside of the board (and I don't want to!). Just fix my drawing so it is correct (make your own please).

OKAY so that description is horribly wrong (I mean this circuit WILL NOT WORK SO NO ONE ELSE TRY IT). Here's the schematic from the words only: Now I will compare it to your pictures. REalize that making me do all this work only annoys me. You are lucky I am so helpful.

I'm not happy having to translate. So... "negative" means "mk1 negative"? Why not just say so: - mk1 negative is connected to pin 85 - mk2 positive is connected to psu (+v) <-- "adj" I think refers to that little part to the left of the "+v" section. So don't mention it here. - pin 87a is connected to psu (-v) - pins 86 and 87 are connected to the UM board "heat bed" port in green Jeez - now I need to translate to the relay diagram. Okay I will get out pencil and paper and do it for you but you are annoying me. do you own a volt meter? Did you measure the voltage coming out of the power supply? It's possible that you have to short the 3 +v pins together but you can just check the voltage at the red wire to the white/blue whire. In other words put one wire of the volt meter on +v and the other on white/blue. Do this with the relay off and then again with the relay on.

he does not have a UM. Anyway there are jumpers somewhere that specify double stepping or something. You could mess with that and fix it in hardware. Or you can fix it in software. For example build Marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ And specify the steps/mm. Or if you already have marlin installed you can update this parameter only (steps/mm for z axis) using only pronterface and gcodes. When you first connect with pronterface it will tell you the current steps/mm for each axis. You can change this value and save (you must save or you will lose the next time you power cycle). For example M500 does the save. gcodes explained: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/

And what did cura do? Other slicers will let you limit the support structure. Not Cura. You have many choices - most of them likely bad - hard to say without seeing your model. One possibility is to add your own support as part of the CAD model.

No. Better than that also!

This is a horrible description. You should draw it out. Is the "board" the heated bed board? Or is it the board under the ultimaker? Negative and ground are usually the same thing. So wtf is going on? + should be connected to adj+. Connecting "negative" whatever that is to "adj+" sounds very very wrong and may be your only issue. Please draw out what you describe above on paper and photograph it. Please clearly distinguish the "board" under the ultimaker from the heated bed itself. Which of these negatives and grounds are on the UM board and which are not?

And if you want to upload an STL (the 3d format most commonly used for 3d printing), the favored place is youmagine.com.

Yes - rim-of-bowl down is probably a great idea.

I have this problem all the time when I print something of this shape. I don't know what to do. It is caused by the plastic on the upper layers shrinking and pulling. It will lift the edges of your bowl and the printer will hit it. Usually the solution for me is to just make sure it sticks very well to the print bed. THAT I am an expert on. So if your problem is that the part came off the bed then I can help you. But if your problem is trying to reduce how much the nozzle hits the part - let me know if you figure it out. You might need a heated bed or even a heated chamber. If the part is simply ugly you could reduce flow to maybe 30% during this part of the bowl and then increase gradually to 100% as the walls get more vertical. Let us know if you figure it out. Other things that help is support structure - sometimes I put support structure into the CAD model - posts to help hold things down. This doesn't work though for a bowl shape. It helped when I printed out some propellers though - I only had to hold down the outer edge with a thin support. Recently it seemed like I had WORSE problems with lower temperatures but this was just a single print - I didn't test it very well. I'm thinking of doing tests to try to reduce this shrinking lifting. Also less infill helps a great deal but with a bowl I assume the part is hollow so you can't print with any less than that.

That would make sense but he has the problem even at 10mm/sec! And it's not any better at 10 then at 20. No -- I think it's temperature related. Please please - use Cura - set the temp to 180C and let it sit for 20 minutes. Come back and look at the graph. This was what I wanted you to do the first time. This is what Robert suggested. This was the VERY FIRST SUGGESTION and it's the only one that makes sense to me at this point. I spent a lot of time thinking about your issue. Did you spend much time reading all the responses and thinking about them?

Correction - Ian is one of the happiest, craziest and creative people on the net.

1) When you ran first run wizard did you choose "ultimaker2" or "ultimaker original"? 2) Did you install a new marlin? It looks to me that your steps/mm is wrong such that it is moving half the distance it should be. Try moving exactly 10mm and see how much it moves. There are software endstops in Marlin meaning it will not go farther than 20.5cm. But if the steps/mm is off by 2x then this explains what you see (only goes to the middle).