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yellowshark

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Everything posted by yellowshark

  1. I may be dumb but your print speeds mean nothing to me. If you are printing quite slow or no faster than medium then your extruder temp. for .15 is probably too hot which will cause stringing. Did you have your fans on? If not that will probably increase the problem. I print .300 at 30 or 40 mm/s at 200
  2. Last night I tried a test on fan usage; the results on overhangs are clear. Left hand side is at 40% fan and the right is at 0% fan. The first pic is out of focus but I think the difference can clearly be seen. I then tried a piece without overhangs or curves and the difference was minimal, although overall I felt the piece at 40% fan was just a little better, or was that mind-games.
  3. If you can try a 0.8mm nozzle. Unbelievably the difference on overhangs is stunning. No support used.
  4. @neotko I have been in contact with Two Bears and they are sending me some samples:)
  5. Well I am pleased to report that I seem to have fixed those artefacts that were appearing on the print. [media=20057][/media] I made the following changes, which I took from the 3DVerkstan guide. travel speed from 150 to 200 retraction distance from 4.5mm to 5.0mm minimum travel distance from 1.5 to 1.0 minimum extrusion from 0.02 to 0 Of course, with my racing background, I should know better than to make multiple changes to the setup, so I do not know exactly what fixed it, but that is a question for another day!
  6. That is not quite my "problem". Uploading a photo from my PC to my Album works fine. But if I then try to include that photo into a post, there is a problem. I select the Image gallery icon, 2nd from right, and a panel is displayed with images from my Gallery. The newly uploaded photo is not there. If I come back later, ooh I don't know really, let us say 10 minutes, it is there.
  7. Funnily I have just seen the PLA-Tec thread from last February again, yes it looks a great filament and I meant to buy some then to try, but forgot all about it! And of course hairspray no problem for me as that is what I use all the time , If I remember I will buy some next week!!
  8. Hi Gr5, yes it all displays as you said. I think our posts have crossed. It is all working now, i.e. my pics are being displayed in the search panel and I can post pics without getting the "Your image has been deleted" message when I check Preview. I suspect highly, as you suggested, that there was a server connection problem last night. I did notice this morning that there was still a delay in uploading a pic to one's gallery and that pic being available for inclusion in a post; @SanderVg has picked up this point. Thanks for your help
  9. The piece I think is too small for the following, but if you print something larger then, as I found out by chance, using a .8mm nozzle instead of .4mm can really help
  10. Thanks for that, some interesting and mixed(!) comments. I will try with the fans off later tonight and see what happens! And yes if m retraction changes and fans off do not get rid of my artefacts I will drop a line to Colorfabb
  11. Lol, I love nGen, not the opposite! I needed a higher melt temp. for a part and this kicks ABS into touch in my opinion, so easy to use and the finish is great. I have just done a piece with curved overhangs without support and the overhangs have come out exceptionally well - I will do again with PLA and post results if they are different. Hmn, well I have just smoothed an edge on an overhang surface and yes it was tougher than PLA but I still did it. I was using a jeweller's file which is a lot more expensive than "ordinary" files, perhaps that is why it was not a problem. I am now reprinting the fan shroud with changes to retraction settings and travel speed in an attempt to get rid of those strange artefacts. I will fit one of them and use the other as a sample to demonstrate how good the surface can be on a 3D print. I did another test today with the printer fully open and I could not tell the difference between the two prints, so clearly the cabinet not an issue like it is with ABS.
  12. If I delete a reappeared deleted item, it automatically deletes the post underneath it which is also a reappeared deleted item.
  13. The Notifications display list has gone all buggy. Items I have deleted keep being displayed again. Items not yet read disappear then reappear, . Indeed I think the items I deleted disappear and reappear, probably the same bug. All posted within the last few hours
  14. Just print direct onto the glass (you may want to use adhesive, hairspray etc.)- I do not think anyone really uses rafts these days, unless you really do have to use one. I have never used a raft in 3 years of printing
  15. Well got up this morning and it is now all working so I guess there was maybe server disconnect. One thing I did notice was that if you add a pic to your gallery and then go to a post to insert the pic, the new pic is still not showing on the select display - there seems to be some delay in making new pics available to other functions, which I do not remember happening before - I overcame that by doing direct "upload" from my PC
  16. Hi, I did my first nGen prints today and I must say that so far I have been very pleased • Easy to work with • Mostly good results from my standard PLA setting’s apart from changing the temps. • Flat surface finish is looking attractive • Dimensional accuracy poor • Strange artefacts appearing Easy to work with Unlike one of the posts above I found that the filament fed through the Bowden tube very easily, better than PLA. It felt slippery and very smooth, not the slightest hint of resistance. The first layer stuck to the bed well; a pleasant surprise unlike my experience with nylon some time ago which just refused to stick to the bed. Results & settings Here is my first print, a simple cube with a good 1st layer surface. I chose my settings after reading the above posts and the Colorfabb website Bed: 75 Extruder: 230 Fan: 50% Flow: 99% (leftover from PLA) Layer height .300 layer 1 then .200 Glass bed and hairspray. It was printed in a fully enclosed printer. [media=20017][/media] Using the same settings I then printed Le Fabshop’s Origami lampshade at 50% scale. It was going very nicely for 1.5 hours or so but then detached from the bed. I was not there so do not know why. But the base is very thin and it was stupid not to use a brim; which I will do and retry. . [media=19994][/media] Again the finish looks good. Although in the next pic you can see printing artefacts. That is a very tight bend there, no doubt causing it. It also has similar artefacts on the inside, see 2nd pic. Not sure why right now, needs some thought and investigation, maybe retraction? Also on this print the layer adhesion is poor. If I compress it into an oval I can hear the layers cracking. All I would say at this stage is that the walls are thin and I reduced the model by 50%. I then printed this fan shroud below. For this I changed the temp to 235 to try and improve layer adhesion, it is an entirely different geometry, but nonetheless. I also changed fan from 50 to 40. Not really sure why, I think I wondered if the fan was cooling it too quickly affecting layer adhesion. [media=19997][/media] Again for a 1st time a I am pleased with the result and the shroud will be fitted later today. There is some stringing, which the normal fix is to reduce the print temp but that is not really ideal here. I have used my PLA retraction settings which I think are default Cura settings so I think I will play around with them and see if can fix it. I just do not get stringing with PLA. Note the brim this time 8) And again I have these strange artefacts that appeared on the lamp cover. [media=20000][/media] Anyone have any idea as to what might be causing this?
  17. There seems to be a disconnect between the Gallery and the Forum GUI. I have just deleted two pics from my Gallery but they are still showing in the display when I s;ect the Image Gallery icon when creating a posting. Of course it is all pretty irrelevant I think to my original post about my pics being deleted; unless of course the process cannot access the server to get the images?
  18. Just added another image which is not displaying in the Add Image panel. Does that panel have a maximum of 28 images I wonder?
  19. Yup I used the icon on the rhs, not the external image icon. No I did not use the upload tab as I had already moved the images I wanted into the gallery. The display is showing 28 images whereas I have 30 images in the gallery.
  20. ... also If I select the option to insert an image from my gallery, not all my pics are shown in the display, including one I want to insert!
  21. Hi I have just put a post together including a number of images, not for the first time, and when I go into Preview each image has been replaced with a message - "this image has been deleted". What would cause that?
  22. Don't keep us in suspense... did you find what you were looking for? Immediately 8)
  23. Hmn I have only ever used 20mm/s. I think with a level bed and the right nozzle to bed distance one would be OK, i.e. in three years I have not had a problem, Maybe the problem resulted from non-accurate setup? I used 20 because everything I read at the time said 20! No idea what the implications are if one goes faster, good or bad except I always understood that slower gave one better adhesion of 1st layer
  24. OK you say "accurate and good prints". If you print stuff like figurines, masks, light sabres etc then accuracy does not really come into it - it is not going to be out by a factor that you would notice. I you are talking about dimensional accuracy in engineering, let's say a variation of 100 microns or indeed better, you do not really want to go above 30mm/s and 20mm/s will be better. For "good" it does depend on what you are printing. Take a house, which is basically a box with holes in and let us say it fills the entire print bed and is a scale of 1:100 or bigger (ie 1:50). As a general statement you will get better quality (i.e., it will look better) by printing .100 layers and fast rather than .300 layers and slow; but with any answer to your question there will always be exceptions - you might have intricate window detail that requires a slower speed, in which case I would print the windows separately and glue them in. But yes, as already stated, up to a point printing slower will make things look better - you do not have to look too closely at something printed at 60mm/s and 30mm/s to see that slower is normally better. I have never tried below 20mm/s, it just costs our customers too much to go that slow - give it a try and see - and make sure those fans are turbo charged. Remember it is not the size that affects this, it is the geometry/level of detail involved and the quality you want. I doubt there is much point in printing at 15mm/s unless your layer resolution is around .050 or lower - and if you do that with an A4 sized house I guess you in the realms of 160 hours print time
  25. Lol just seen it as I signed on again :)8) Thanks
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