yellowshark

Just be aware that someone has reported 2.3 not working under Windows 10. It works on mine but maybe there have been releases of 2.3.0 since I installed. I also recall someone complaining that releases had been made without the release number being updated, so the latest could be wrong and still called 2.3.0 - I am quoting, not saying

Not for long though, it has only been Scotland, as part of the UK, that has stopped us moving to European time

Correct:) It is HIPS I have

Hmn interesting; I always thought you needed limonene to remove PVA, not water. I think I have some PVA but have never used it, perhaps I should give it a try.

Well if you look at the PC market once it stabilised, ie price reductions reducing, you might have paid the same price for a new model but you get more bangs for you buck at the same price. I paid around 3.5k eu for my dual extruder printer 3 years ago so one would hope it would not be more than that I think; and that price included a construction using all cnc alloys apart form the obvious plastic/rubber/brass parts, and fully enclosed.

I also see that now I can sign in with the Edge browser, every post I make results in a double posting - bet this one doesn't!

I wonder if you are measuring the temperature of the bed or the glass? On my printer the temp sensor measures the bed not the glass plate. So to have the plate at 80 I set the bed to 88, checking with an IR thermometer. It might be worth trying some changes to nozzle to bed distance, although I just went ahead with my PLA setting and it worked fine. You could mail Colorfabb and ask if they were using a glass bed and if so what adhesive they used. Maybe I was lucky but I never have any problems with PLA adhesion and nGen worked fine first time too.

I wonder if you are measuring the temperature of the bed or the glass? On my printer the temp sensor measures the bed not the glass plate. So to have the plate at 80 I set the bed to 88, checking with an IR thermometer. It might be worth trying some changes to nozzle to bed distance, although I just went ahead with my PLA setting and it worked fine. You could mail Colorfabb and ask if they were using a glass bed and if so what adhesive they used. Maybe I was lucky but I never have any problems with PLA adhesion and nGen worked fine first time too.

I do not have a UM, I have a 3ntr. They are very similar in design although the detail of the drive system is different - no idea if this would impact ease of use in terms of feeding in the filament but I suspect not.

I do not have a UM, I have a 3ntr. They are very similar in design although the detail of the drive system is different - no idea if this would impact ease of use I terms of feeding in the filament but I suspect not.

Having a Bowden tube printer I have never tried flexible filament; just reading people’s painful experience with it on the Forum! So Colorfabb launched nGenflex stating it worked with Bowden tubes and my first reel arrived last week  Firstly, having never seen flexible filament before, I was surprised by how flexible it was on the reel; hold the reel up and let some unreel and gravity gives you a straight vertical (almost) line of filament. I was concerned if it would feed through the Bowden and into and through the drive wheel but it did. Feeding all the way to the nozzle without a problem. The initial bed adhesion is better than PLA (for me). With PLA I often find the first few mm do not adhere meaning I need to be ready with a long screwdriver to move the “tail” out of the way. This flex filament just sticks starting with the first pixel. So up to now it has been a very easy filament to work with. The finish on a large flat top surfaces and on layer 0 is just awesome, significantly better than I have ever achieved with PLA. Not so good on small complex top surfaces but I will come to tha n a moment. For my testing I setup initially with… • Fully enclosed printer • Glass bed with hairspray • Ambient temp 29c (yes that was a mistake!) • Bed temp. 80 • Extruder temp. 245 (that was a mistake as I meant to use 250) • Flow 99% (taken from my nGen settings) • .300 layer height • 0.4mm line width • All printing speeds 30mm/s (apart from layer 0 at 20mm/s) • Fan 50% • Retraction speed 40 (nGen setting) • Retraction length 5.5 (nGen setting) The first piece attaches to the wrist and I thought some flexibility would provide a tighter fit, important as it has a gps positional sensor attached and zero relative movement on the arm is vital. A great finish in the bottom but a mess on the top! For the 2nd print I change the fan from 50% to 0%, on the basis that people have reported good results with nGen with no fan. The top face was improved but still poor. During the print I noticed that in the narrow areas of infill there seemed to be too much material being laid down, i.e. at the point of the retraction/z move as the line finished 0 it was almost if it could not cope with the very short printing distance. So for the next print I pushed the retraction speed to 50 and the distance to 6.5. But that made no difference. I think will try it with coasting next. At this point I moved onto a different model and I am going to have to spend some considerable time I think trying to get an acceptable top surface for this type of model, it is unusable for me and I suspect the dimensional accuracy is very poor, which I need to check. BTW it seems to me that you need to remove the brim immediately. If you leave it on for any time the brim and model just “glue” themselves together and you have to remove with scissors/blade. I ripped several of the bottom layers off one of the prints after leaving the brim on the model for a minute, maybe two. The next pic is of my 2nd attempt to print this model. For this model I reset the fans back to 50%. The first attempt was going fine and I left to make myself a coffee. When I returned there were 2 or 3 layers with what looked like under-extrusuin and as I arrivde the piece was in serious under extrusion; on the z move I would often hear a sort of whoosh sound. I quickly changed the flow up from 99% to 103% and it did recover. On reflection I concluded that the under extrusion was due to poor filament. I had the teeth set very lightly on the filament and felt that the diameter of the filament must have reduced so that the drive wheel was not engaging, giving the whooshing sound I was hearing, unusual for ColorFabb for sure. It has not happened again. There is one broken line around the middle. I am now wondering if that, and the 2 or 3 lines on the previous print, is poor layer adhesion rather than under extrusion. The rest is good apart form the holes at the top which are poor. The next two pics are the flex filament followed by a PLA example - you can see the difference in quality. To test bed adhesion I then tried a larger model using a box with the size 150mm * 130mm on the X/Y axes. Again with a simple flat surface a beautiful top layer finish. The print was about two hours and when I returned it had detached from the bed. To be fair to the filament the bed had not been cleaned for months, so I need to do that and retest. For my last test I printed a simple 150mm oblong with a height of 1.2mm. As you can see it is flexible! Stop press: I have just printed the hydraulic cylinder at 255 (up from 245) and layer adhesion looks much better; will try and post an update this weekend

That is OK, so am I 8)

OK, Here is the login screen [media=21415][/media] Under Windows10 Update is just horrible! No idea how to update IE11 except on this pic you will see the version I have plus a box ticked to automatically update to new versions - precisely what that does and when I do not know. And here is a pic from my Ultimaker inbox and as you can see some emails arrived this afternoon; which is good but whether or not they represent everything I should have received for this afternoon/evening I need to check. [media=21414][media-thumb=21414][/media-thumb][/media]

Hi If you want to use USB printing then you may want to consider using Repetier Host for your print control. You interface with Cura in one of two ways. Load your model into Repetier Host and press the button to slice using the Cura engine; this slices the model and loads the gcode into Repetier Host, hit the print button. Alternatively, slice in Cura as per normal, save the gcode to file and then go over to Repetier Host and load the gcode. I have been using it for the past 3 years.

@SandervG .... oh and also I have received no email notifications since the work last weekend

Hi I have been unable to sign in all week - the sign-in page is displayed but it is entirely blank apart from a link to Support in lower right corner. I am running Windows 10 and IE11. It is clear now that something has happened to screw IE11, at least on my PC. I just tried Edge and here I am. But I hate Edge and do not use it. Can someone please have a look at Windows 10 with IE11 and see if anything is wrong? It was working before last week-end Anyone using Windows 10 and IE11 successfully since last week-end?

Lol I did that couple of days ago. As an ex IT developer I do not like hardcoding variables as it will come back in the future to catch you out. But yes, given that travel speed is rarely changed, albeit I changed it for the first time a couple of weeks ago testing nGen, I can live with it

Lol I did that couple of days ago. As an ex IT developer I do not like hardcoding variables as it will come back in the future to catch you out. But yes, given that travel speed is rarely changed, albeit I changed it for the first time a couple of weeks ago testing nGen, I can live with it

Fine, but the point is really that {travel_speed} is not working. At the moment whenever I slice I now have to go into the gcode and change several lines of code because they should be saying F12000 but they say F{travel_speed}. It is a real PIA, especially when it worked fine on 15.04.4 and prior versions. It is not the only thing that does not work now with the gcode generator, but did work in previous versions but I can live with the other two because Cura now generates them automatically where I need them.

Hi @nallath @SandervG I wonder if you can pass this onto the appropriate developer(s) – I was not sure if I should use the support system to report a bug with a beta release of software. In 2.3 there seems to be a bug in the g-code compiler/generator with command G1 and probably G0 (RepRap treats them as the same command) and the calculation of the travel speed. It worked on 15.04.4 but fails with 2.3. The travel speed entry in Cura, both 15.04 and 2.3 uses the units mm/s. In 15.04.4 the placeholder {travel_speed} was used – or at least that is what I used and it worked. In 2.3 it does not work. Firstly, it generates the g-code G1 F{travel_speed}. Cura printer End gcode G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the ;nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more. Result G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the ;nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more @ahoeben kindly suggested I try the place holder {speed_travel}; this partially worked. Cura setting [media=21114][/media] Cura printer start code G1 F{speed_travel} M117 Printing... Result G1 F200 M117 Printing... With my travel speed set to 200mm/s in Cura, it generated G1 F200. This is wrong because G1 uses the units mm/m and it should have generated G1 F12000 (Cura travel speed * 60). My printer is not a UM printer. I generated a custom printer and selected RepRap Marlin/Sprinter as the firmware, the same as I had in 15.04.4. Under the same conditions 15.04.4 correctly generated G1 F12000.

Some of the Taulmann nylons are certified by the FDA in the USA and are not abrasive.

bump

bump

Lol I use their Dutch orange a lot too, a close match to a customer's logo - very strange result

Are your fans at 100%? I print squares at about that height during testing and your settings are probably very similar to mine. I do not print as low as .060 but then my temp will be 190-195; but I am running 100% fan. Like you I do not recall ever seeing elephant's feet on the top.