yellowshark

Hi @SandervG, so I have been using Firefox last night and today and I am experiencing the same problem consistently.

Just referring to @gr5 's post, my experience on WD40 is automotive based not 3D printer based. WD40 is a good cleaner but i leaves a residue, whether this is OK for printing I know not. Last year in the UK they released a range of new products and I think the new WD40 now does not leave a residue (i.e I read that somewhere); whether there is any old WD40 left in the distribution channels, again I know not. I just wanted to make you aware; I am sure though that if George has used WD40 on his printer then it will be OK

Do youmean to cut off 84mm from the bottom of your print? If your model is shorter than 84mm you will not print anything even if you temp. is 300!!!!!

Probably too fast and too hot

yes I will use Firefox for a few days

I have not tried this but another option, although @eldrick 's point is a good one, would be to use one of the add-ons either tweak at Z or another one whose name escapes me, that lets you change the settings at particular Z heights and change the infill to 100% for the layers that the hole(s) "sits" in.

For a lot of things glue will be fine but if you are placing stress on the assembly and need extra strength/adhesion then yes using plugs/dowelling is pretty easy to do/print. You will probably have to play around with dimensions on first try to get the dowel to fit the hole. Probably a bit tricky on small stuff but pretty easy on larger assemblies. The dowels will obviously be quite small so you will want to print say 6-10 at the same time using the option Tools/print all at once , from the menu system. Probably print at 20mm/s or 30mm/s and have the extruder temp as low as possible. If you are using PLA then 20mm/s, layer height .15 and extruder temp of 190 should be a good staring point - you should be able to go a bit cooler, 185 or 180.

This print in total was circa 40 hours but the longest print run was 5-6 hours. I use Revell’s Contacta professional glue, chosen on the basis that Revell has been making plastic kits for decades! It needs the parts to be held in place for 5 minutes or so and seems to cure within a couple of hours or so. No doubt there are other good ones.

No quite the opposite. It was working OK between 10th Feb and 5th March with the version of the browser I am using now. That suggests to me that circa 5th March the forum code was updated causing the problem I have had since 5th March. Clearly that may not necessarily be the case but IE has not changed on my laptop since 10th February.

sent from Firefox (jeez the fount is awful); I will use this for the next few days and give you an update.

The IE version update was installed on 10th February and I have accessed the forum on a variety of days between then and 5th March

No problem Yes it has been continuous since reporting the other day; just now I went away from the laptop for a couple of hours, leaving it on and when I went to the Ultimaker tab I had to sign in again. Sometimes the sign in dialogue box has my sign in details and sometimes it is blank, this seems to be totally random to me. I am using IE 11 Update version 11.0.28, as I have been for the past 2.5 years although presumably the update version will have changed from time to time. I see that update version 11.0.28 was released on February 8th 2016 which was about a month before I experienced the problem on 5th March so I would be dubious if it is IE. I will try and determine when release 11.0.28 was installed on my laptop and check to see if I have used the forum between then and 5th March. OS is windows 7.1; I do not have another browser but I am happy to download Firefox and give that a try if it will help you? Chrome is out of the question, too invasive, i.e. Google not necessarily Chrome, but I doubt it.

Bump

Ah, cunning, well spotted

Couple of points, you did not met ion what temp you used for the atomic pull but I assume you did not/have not got all the ABS out - I saw some under-extrusion on one of the photos. Also in the earlier posts I read them as being that you felt that the bed levelling was causing your print head to hit the print - to quote you "From what I have noticed, the probability to get bad prints with PLA increases the more narrow the nozzle is to the print bed. It touches overhanging material and rips the printed structures apart." This has nothing to do with bed levelling - the distance you refer to is the layer height.

I do not think so - Nallath's post confused me too. You have to have one set and I never check that parameter unless I am printing multiple models

Surely not. I rarely print anything these days with a layer time below 10 secs but I am sure Cura slows down (or used to slow down) in the way you describe for S3D (????). Maybe I am confusing it with slic3r which I used to use a long time ago.

Lol @nallath, if I do multiple printing I nearly always use "print one at a time", as you say we all have different normals My view is that if I am printing say 5 or 6 copies and the print fails 75% of the way through, I will actually have 3 or 4 completed models. Also it stops the print head flying between the models and possibly leaving artefacts where it leaves one model and joins another. Equally I have printed "all at one time" with success. Just a matter of risk management really.

Another solution is to use both, if appropriate. I.E. use the Cura support type touching buildplate" and then Meshmixer for the additional areas that require support. I have found the Cura support to be easier and less damaging to break away that the Meshimixer supports. Then again perhaps I nee to read the tutorial Nico provided the link for

No reason why PLA should be better than ABS, probably the opposite. But I have used PLA for fasteners OK - like many things it depends on the stress that the part will be subjected to.

Your problem is that with the bolts the layer time to print a layer will be very small, when ideally you want around 10 secs. As you set 3 secs. for your minimum layer time then the next layer will be printed before the previous layer has had time to cool and you will get, as you noted, a mess. When you changed your minimum layer time to 10 secs. Cura then moved the printhead away from the bolt while it waited for the 10 secs. then moved back to the bolt and printed the next layer, and so on. It moves away so that if there is any dripping it will not drip on the bolt and also it takes the heat from the print head away so that the top layer can cool. You have several solutions. For the bolt I would print multiple copies so that the total layer time is at least 10 secs. The problem with this solution is that Cura has a serious bug where the printing sequence of the multiple models is wrong. If you have four copies of the model, ABCD then the printing sequence is A,B,C,D then D,C,B,A then A,B,C,D etc. So B & C will be OK but A& D may not be. Load you bolt into Cura and then select Tools/print all at one time. You want/need to spread the four bolts on the print bed to ensure you get a long enough layer print time.

Hi @SandervG, This has never ever happened to me before. Now today the Forum keeps signing me off - pop into the kitchen for a coffee and when I get back I have to sign in again. Am I irritated, you bet I am. Has somebody updated the code? Grrhh

Yes I thought the Cura print speed was faster, which on that size of model makes the comparison sort of pointless. One might argue that it is a comparison of default settings and on that video one might say that S3D has a better default profile - unless of course you are printing a model that takes up the entire print bed!! I can spend hundreds of pounds on an Adobe product but the guys give you a 30 day trial version unlike these guys who expect me to shell out 150usd on no evidene at all.

Ok, let us assume you have a 0.4mm nozzle and that is the measurement in Cura, under the Basic tab; if you have not touched it, it will be because that is the Cura default. Everything the printer prints/draws is a line, even curves as these are made from miniscule straight lines which you will never see. So when a line is printed its width is 0.4mm. If we take a simple piece of geometry, a circular column, and look at the cross section, the outer part is a wall and the inner part is infill. The wall is made of a number of shells. In Cura there is a parameter under the basic tab called “Shell thickness”. This should be set to a multiple of your nozzle size, many people use 0.8mm most of the time; I suspect that is the Cura default. With that setting the outside wall will comprise two shells, each 0.4mm wide. The outside circle is the outer shell and the inside circle next to it is the inner shell. If you set the shell width to 1.2mm you will have one outer shell and two inner shells. If the xolumn has been designes as solid, the the rest of the inside will be infill. Another example: you are printing a model of a house with real walls that are 2.4mm thick. If you specify the shell thickness as width 0.4mm Cura will print one 0.4mm wide line (shell). If you have infill % set to 0 then the wall will have a gap in the middle measuring 1.6mm. If you change the shell thickness to 0.8mm then you will have two lines printed and the gap will be 0.8mm. If you set the shell thickness to 1.2mm you will have three lines printed and the wall will be solid with no gap. Speeds – you can print the outer shell, the inner shell (could be multiples) and infill all at different speeds – but DON’T. Although I think the Cura default is to use different speeds as default (BAD). To change the default speeds you will need to go to the manual menu tabs and change the relevant parameters. But if you are nervous with that at the moment do not worry, just leave the defaults as they are. When you are more confident, you can set the print speed on the Basic tab to what appropriate speed you want and then go to the Advanced tab and set the Infill, Top/Bottom, Outer Shell and Inner Shell speeds to zero – they will then all print at the print speed you set on the Basic tab. I think that will answer your question; I do not know what the Cura defaults are for the inner shell and infill speeds, they could be the same or different. Using different speeds will increase the risk of surface imperfections (i.e. the outer shell) and really only gives you a distinct advantage if printing a very large model. Air gaps – not quite sure what you are referring to but if you use 100% infill the infill will be solid. If you use 50% infill then theoretically there should be a 0.4mm gap between every line of infill.

I like that, yes a good idea. I accept the fact that one would loose some print space on a UM but I bet the vast the vast majority of makers rarely use the entire bed. For UM printers as long as it can be easily removed so that if you need to use the extremities of the bed, you can, then it seems workable to me.