yellowshark

Hi @nallath, I have just tried this with single extruder printer and it is not right. The model is 17.5mm*15mm*2.5mm. I loaded the model and created 3 copies. I then moved them apart giving 70mm between each copy. I turned on print one at a time and two things happened 1. each of the 4 models has a very large grey area, circa around 120mm*80mm. Due to their size there is some overlapping. I have 1 line of skirt 3mm from the model. Does the overlap mean they will not print? 2. I get the message that the build volume height has been reduced to prevent a piece being hit by the gantry. The pieces are 2.5mm high and the Printer settings have the gantry height set to 70mm!!!!!

Hi @nallath, OK I understand what you are saying but am unclear on the implementation. I am looking in folder …\Cura 2.3\resources\quality. There is not an ultimaker 3 folder there so I looked at the 2plus folder. I can see lots of .cfg files but cannot understand where I select/input one of the files in the GUI. Also, an example is raft_base_line_spacing = 1.6 raft_base_line_width = 0.8 but in Notepad it appears as raft_base_line_spacing = 1.6raft_base_line_width = 0.8 If I added infill speed and number of slower layers e.g. raft_base_line_spacing = 1.6raft_base_line_width = 0.8infill_speed = print _speednumber_of_slower_layers = print_speed/30 How does it know that”…speednumber” are separate variables? Easy when it is a letter following a number.

Hi @jerooney, yes all OK now, many thanks for your help. Currently in the Profile Manager the custom profiles are listed in either a random sequence or in creation date sequence, not sure which. I will soon have about 20 profiles, which will grow further; is it possible to change this and display the list in alphabetical sequence to make it quicker to find the profile one wants?

Hmn, I think I am going to be devilish and blow away all the comments on first layer bed adhesion and temperature made over the past 2 years or so, including mine! I always use a brim or a skirt. When I started printing 3 years ago I used Slic3r, which had the option to set a 1st layer temp. and a different temp. for remaining layers. So I would set the 1st layer temp higher. When I switched to Cura I lost this option and so at first I set the Cura bed temp. to a higher temp. and after the 1st layer I used Repetier Host to turn down the bed temp. The problem was that often I forgot to do this and finally I settled on just setting the Cura bed temp. at 60c. What I have suffered from for a long time is that as the print would start the first few mm, or indeed cm, of the skirt or brim would not stick so that before the actual model started to print there would be a tail attached to the extruder. This was never a major problem as I always had a game with a long screwdriver chasing the tail and catching it and moving t away from the print area. The only real problem was with an inside and outside brim where the tail would stretch across the model print area. Recently I spent some time testing nGen and nGenflex and with both materials I noticed that the filament stuck to the bed immediately, i.e. no tail. That was very nice and I thought what a lovely material and left it there. I do not know why but last week I was thinking about it again and realised, “you idiot there was a difference, with those new materials the bed temp was 75/80, not 60”. So I tried it, with the bed temp pumped up to 75c I ran some PLA and hey presto not a hint of a tail. So for the past week I have been starting 1st layer at 75 and then reducing to 60 once the layer is complete. This coming week I will dial it down to 70 and see… It is quite possible that this would not do you any favours with something like Marvin but I never print that small. With my printer I will be pretty much down to 60 by the time the 2nd layer has finished.

Hi, for the avoidance of doubt, the problem I had was that I had "Part A Profile" loaded and whilst preparing a piece for printing I made several changes to the settings . I decided I did not want to save those settings to the Profile but instead save them to a new profile "Part B Profile", this does not seem possible as at that instance the Duplicate option is not available. I do not consider it a bug but it would sure be helpful if it was possible to duplicate "on the fly"

When I was a boy scout we used to wash our plates and billy cans with grass and earth, making a combined sponge and dishwasher agent. No doubt these days Health & Safety would take us to court but hey 40 years later I am still alive.

Yup it is a bit flakey. I wanted to save changes to a new profile whilst I was working with a new model which was causing the changes and found I could not save to a new profile, I could only overwrite the existing profile. I chose that option and wrote down the changes I had made, which are displayed before committing the update. Nothing like an electronic system to cut paperwork!!! I hoped the guys add a folder structure for profiles by the time we get to 2.4 otherwise I will be tearing my hair out. Slic3r had one 3 years ago. right yprofilechanges

Yup it is in the user manual but I wanted to try it yesterday and it is not in 2.3.release

v. nice print, glad to hear you solved the problem

Thank you @bagel-orb

Ok I will refer to Print speed and subsidiary print speeds (e.g. infill, inner wall, 1st layer). In 15.04 Cura print speed was two things. Firstly it set the speed of all the walls as there were no subsidiary print speeds for walls. It may also, I do not know, have set the print speed for upper and lower layers, which are now controlled by their own subsidiary print speeds. I think I always thought the upper and lower layers were done at infill speed in 15.04 The other REALLY USEFUL thing that the print speed did in 15.04 was that if acted as the default for the subsidiary print speeds if they were set to 0. For someone like me that a) changes print speed a lot and b) normally runs with all speeds the same except layer 1 and travel speed, using 2.3 release from this perspective is a real PITA, especially as on my PC Cura is not recognising the tab key so if I change speed I have to change 5 speeds using the mouse to position the cursor in each input box on a laptop which is at knee level and several feet in front of me. As all the elements of printing speed now have their own subsidiary elements as far as I can see and cannot be set to 0, what does Print speed do? Hi @nallath it would be great if we could have back the 0 default function Of course I realise that I have probably missed something completely obvious and will end up cowering in a damp hole somewhere, but I have to ask!

Thanks for the update @sammo. My longest so far is 2hr 42min and that was fine. I have a 3ntr. I think both drive systems are architecturally the same but are implemented differently. I will see if I can do a longer print next week

~/Appdata/Local/Cura/Cura.log

Ah I understand now! Ok I think my changes should certainly help as you are probably printing way too hot, so give them a go and give us an update and pic if necessary. OK adhesion to bed. Yes an adhesive is good, most people use them for PLA. Different people use different things. I think the reality is if someone uses something and it works well for them they stick with it. Do you have a removable glass bed with your printer? If you do then I use hairspray; this was recommended to me by my printer manufacturer, it worked well and I have never tried anything else. Process: Buy a can of L'Oréal Elnett extra strength hairspray from Waitrose or whatever. Heat up your bed (maybe optional but I always do) Remove your glass plate and spray it LIGHTLY with the aerosol – do not get hung up on LIGHTLY, just do not push the button all the way down and move very slowly across the bed. You cannot damage anything! Wait 20 seconds and spray a 2nd light coat. Replace glass bed and bring back up to required temp. Go. Notes: Only sometimes does the 1st print does not stick. Maybe the coating was too light; no harm in spraying on another coat. Mine normally lasts a month or two; sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. If you have been using it for a while and start to loose adhesion it is OK to just repeat the process above. But normally I will clean the plate and re-apply the coating – best to do that but if you are in a rush OK to miss it. How to clean: run a sink hot tap over the plate and use a jiffy cloth to wipe off the hairspray, it is easy to see. Wipe dry; again no hang ups here, by the time the bed has heated up any dampness will have gone. AND ALSO: if you have asked for 70 degrees and your printer is telling you that you have 70 degrees is that right? Often not!! Firstly the printer is probably measuring the temperature of the printer bed, not the glass plate. On my printer once the temp. reads 60 (my normal setting) the plate is 8-10 degrees behind. You have to wait, say 10mins. If you have a digital thermometer so much the better, you can read the glass temp. directly. Secondly; the heater is probably in the middle of the bed. That means that when the centre gets to the desired temp., the surrounding perimeter is cooler, 12 degrees easily. If you are printing a piece in the centre of the bed with a small ground surface area then it is not a problem. But if you are printing a piece with a large surface it can/will be, you need to wait for the perimeter area to catch up, 15+ mins? Again a digital thermometer is the tool you want!

Thanks it was elsewhere in the directory structure but your "cura.log" found it for me . Hi @nallath where do you want me to send it?

Hi @nallath I have never need to look at a Cura log file, where is it stored?

Strange photo, the rhs is almost perfect, apart from the warp and the LHS is a mess! There are various things wrong with your settings – I am not sure if they will fully fix the warp, as I find it difficult to interpret the geometry from the pic but make some changes and that will get you on the way. Fill: bottom/top thickness – with a layer height of .1 over 20% infill 6 layers are not enough. I suggest you set it to 12, 10 might do. Extruder temp.: 220c is too hot for layer height of .1 and 50 mm/s. Try 200c. If you see under extrusion then raise it 5 degrees. If it looks fine you might want to try 195c. I rarely use .1 and 50 so I am not sure what the optimum temp will be, but not 220! Bed temp: too hot. Take it down to 60c. You do not mention using adhesive but with a brim you should be OK. How big is the surface area sitting on the bed? If it does not stick then raise it in 5 degree steps. Print speed; ah I see your print speed is not 50. OK with the exception of travel speed and 1st layer speed - choose somewhere between 30-50 and keep all the speeds the same. If you chose 30 I would definitely drop the extruder temp to 195, probably better at 190. Cooling: you do no mention fan %, I am a bit lazy on this and always use 100% with PLA. Are we looking at the bottom surface of the model? Is the lhs higher than the rhs, i.e. not sitting on the bed?

This wasn't in there in 2.1 either. Its on our backlog. OK thanks

I have just installed the Release version on my printer laptop rather than my test laptop where I have been using 2.3.0 Beta for some time. I tried to import all my profiles, about 12 of them. Cura told me a profile had successfully been imported but it is not there. Quite urgent as I cannot really use the Release version without the profiles - and the effort to create 12 profiles to get this working is not attractive!! No idea if this worked on the Beta version as I did not have any to import when first loaded.

There is a bug with duplicate models @nallath. The ability to say how many copies you want has disappeared. If you want 12 models you have to right click and select "Duplicate model" and repeat 11 times. Before you just entered 11 copies please.

Running W10 and IE11 on a fairly ordinary laptop screen and the fount (absolutely the correct spelling in English, before our big brother hijacked the language) is pretty yeugh although I can read it. Err for some reason it looks better in this text box I am writing in, the lines are thicker.

Ok I printed another two copies of the hydraulic cylinder shown above. This time I pushed the temp from 245 to 255. I also raised the speed from 30mm/s to 40mm/s. This time the layer adhesion was so much better. The first I ran with 50% fans and pushing in the cylinder hard I eventually got a single layer separation at a point I would call a "point of weakness" where the circumference narrows. The second print I ran at 20% and when I gave this print the same physical abuse it remained perfect. Cannot recall if the discussion on nGen had a view on best fan rate

Hi @SandervG sign in with IE11 on W10 is now working thanks, as are email notifications.

Like Neotko I also use hairspray on glass. I am not saying it is better than other stuff, just that it has worked faultlessly for me over the past 3 years. Use a brim! That will normally solve your problem; I use 10-20 lines depending on geometry. Plus do not forget that your temp sensor may be measuring the bed temp not the glass temp. On my printer there is about an 8 degree difference. Plus if you are printing something with a big bed area, if your heater is placed in the centre of the bed then your perimeter areas will not be 60; it may take the perimeter areas 10 minutes to reach 60 once the centre is there. Failing the above you will do no harm in using a higher temp unless the piece is really small. I use 60 but used 65 for a long time. 70 will not damage anything, worth a try if all else fails, but surprising. Are you checking that your 1st layer is going down really well? Use .300 for your first layer and make sure your fans are off for the first 2 or 3 layers

Just be aware that someone has reported 2.3 not working under Windows 10. It works on mine but maybe there have been releases of 2.3.0 since I installed. I also recall someone complaining that releases had been made without the release number being updated, so the latest could be wrong and still called 2.3.0 - I am quoting, not saying