yellowshark

I would not say it is overly quite, there is no technical data on decibel measurement. I can work beside it quite easily without "hearing" it. Sometimes I sit in the room listening to my hi-fi whilst the printer is printing. If I have the amp turned up the printer does not intrude; if the amp is at more average values then I can hear the printer but I can mentally shut it out.

George - tldr? . Lol the picture is in my mind. A cube, with a hollow middle shaped as a cube, with a square column in the middle, running from "floor" to "roof".

You need someone knowledgeable to answer that. I presume that as it is described as card it is thicker than paper; i.e. probably at least 0.2mm thick. I also presume that the firmware has been changed to cater for this so that the home measurement is adjusted by ~0.2mm rather than 0.1mm. If so using paper will not work effectively. But I neither designed the card nor modified the firmware

Hi @mbmast, try this simple object. You have a 20mm cube; within the cube you have, centrally located, a 15mm cube of space. So your object has, around the space, an object which measure 5mm in thickness. Cura will print the 5mm thick part leaving a 15mm cube of space. Now centrally, in the cube of space you have 4mm rectangle which extends from the bottom part to the top part, so that will be 10mm in length/height. Cura will then print the 5mm thick part as before, along with the 4mm*4mm*10mm central piece leaving a 5.5mm thick area of space around the sides of the central piece; not around the top and bottom of the central piece as it is attached to the 5mmm thick object. Now what you have to decide, and tell Cura, is how to build the solid parts which are 5mm thick and 4mm thick. This has nothing to do with your 3d model. In this instance it has built a 5mm thick piece around the void and a 4mm thick piece inside the void. How you build them is split into 2 parts, walls and infill. The reason for this is that it is not always efficient to build your parts of 100% solid plastic. You can build them hollow, partially filled or solid. To print something solid will take you more time normally than printing them hollow or partially filled and will certainly use more material. Whatever you choose the first step is to define the size of the "walls", i.e. that thickness of plastic that goes around the outside of the part. This is normally set to 0.8mm; if you are going to print hollow then it may be better to specify 1.6 to give the part more strength. Normally you will not print hollow and will often print partially filled. So in this example you may define 0.8mm for the wall and 50% infill. So you will get a solid outer wall around each piece of 0.8 and in the middle of the walls you will get 3.4mm thickness of 50% plastic. If you want to print solid then you can either change the 50% infill to 100% infill, or set the wall thickness to 2.4mm - or maybe 2.5mm or 2.8mm, I am not sure which one would be best. As someone said earlier, you are telling the 3D printer how to manufacture the 3D model;

I have seen some great prints from the UM although I have not actually seen a UM2. I think one of the strengths the 3ntr has is that its drive system has no plastic parts (of course except for the Bowden tube), comprising CNC alloys through to the extruder/nozzle, which I am not sure whether they are machined in-house or brought in from a third party.

Funny you should say that, it was a thought that went through my head when I first read the post. But it is a solid model so you can set your wall width as you desire, so I do not think it would affect it. But re-scaling is something I rarely do so I do not consider myself that knowledgeable on the subject. I am running Cura but not on a UM printer but apart from extruder temp., which might need adjusting, there is no reason why you should not try my settings and see if you get close. I use all the standard retraction settings in Cura 15.04.2

I am sorry, I do not like to contradict a post but 230/240 is way too high for PLA/PHA; maybe if you are printing .300 layers at 200mm/s. But if the speed is 30-40mm/s, as stated above, even with a layer height of .300 you probably do not need to go above 210. Colorfabb state a max of 220

Lol that is beyond my capability. I made two deliberate changes for the 2nd print. Firstly I increased the infill% to reduce retraction frequency. Secondly I thickened the wall in case the infill overlap was impacting on the surface. Unfortunately I also changed filament, making the understanding of what made the improvement less obvious.

Hi Bob... I cannot help much but yes there is a Plugin that will do this for you. It was mentioned on one of the forum threads several weeks ago when someone asked the same question as yourself, but I cannot remember its name. Hopefully someone will post it for you, if not try posting under the Cura/Marlin sub section, or try and find the thread.

Hi, "the lowest I can go.... is 205" is meaningless really unless you relate that to layer height and print speed. I can print colorfabb at 180 (which is meaningless ) and so would say that if your minimum is 205 you have a problem with your printer.

Hi @Titus, I downloaded the file and had a go. The LHS image was my first go. It is by no means perfect but I think it is better than yours. I used your settings except for layer height - 150mm to speed up print print speed - 20mm/s extruder temp - 180c; although if I did it again I would use 185c infill 26% bed temp 65c 100% fan ColorFab blue grey filament For the RHS print, which is just about perfect, I changed my settings as follows Walls - 1.6mm Infill - 40% Print speed 30 mm/s Extruder temp 190c Faberdashery Robot Silver Also as the overhang changes from leaning to the left (on the lhs of the model!!), to leaning to the right, after say 10 layers I noticed a couple of artefacts and reduced the print speed to 20 mm/s which stopped that. I left the extruder temp at 190 after the speed change because I forgot to reduce it!

I do no think the hairspray needs anything special, except I was told to use extra strength. I use the L'Oreal brand. I have no idea whether the cheapest works just as well, but there is one way for you to find out

My process is - warm the glass to 65c;rremove and spray a very light coat of extra strength hairspray to the bed (or relevant part of the bed); wait 20 secs; apply a similar 2nd very light coat; place glass back onto bed and wait for it to get back to 65. Note: it is probable that your UM heat sensor is measuring the temp of the print bed not the glass. When you bed temp reaches you designated temp., the glass will be at least 10c cooler. Also it may well be that your bed temp sensor is measuring the centre area of the bed, not the perimeter areas and they may well be 5c+ cooler (only relevant if you have a large piece). It is just easier all round to use a digital thermometer to check your glass temp before starting

... and yes ColorFabb is one of the best.

Hi CheaT, it could help if you posted a pic so we can understand the size and shape of the model. As I understand it you have only had the problem with the shiny silverfilament - have you tried the black and the white too? If not I would try one of the other colours with the same settings and model. Yes the spools are different; they have different dyes to create the colours and the dyes can impact - but I have not seen the impact to affect bed adhesion, it can affect optimum extruder temp. Is the first layer adhesion good? If that is poor then redo your levelling as you may not have the optimum distance between nozzle and glass plate. You do not say what your bed temp is?; personally I would use 65 but really 60-70(max) is OK, some people go a bit cooler. Personally I have always used hairspray; some people use sludge made from the glue.

...and as I said if you post settings and maybe a pic we can help you with any over-extrusion - just saying you suffered over-extrusion does not help us help you

Suggest you use 15.04 - sorry I typed it wrong above - never heard of 15.05. If you still get crashes then I would be suspicious of your laptop or whatever, I have never experienced Cura crashing, neither have I seen many posts on the forum over the years about a stable version (which is 15.04) crashing - I do though not go to the leading edge and try the betas, or even the latest release until it is clear that it is stable

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Lol, pas pour moi! Si je regarde l'onglet "expert" je vois seulement "switch to quick print" "switch to full settings" "open expert settings" "run bed levelling wizard" "run head offset wizard"; il n'y a pas mode Complet . ?*?* Eh bien, pour tu je suppose que c'est OK. Je voulais simplement vérifier que tu utilisais la bonne "vitesse d'impression"

Interesting, my printer is designed for ABS, it is fully enclosed. I must confess I have no idea what the internal temp gets to but after 2 years+ nothing has broken - but I do print more PLA than ABS.

@gareee I do not know what the quick temp. print printout is so difficult to comment. Read the 3Dverkstan troubleshooting guide, you will learn a lot! http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide. You can advise people but you cannot say to someone "at this layer height, at this speed, use this temp", there are too many other variables that affect the optimum temp for you i.e your printer, the filament you are using (black PLA and red PLA can be different even if from the same manufacturer), the model, your environment, the type and/or size of nozzle . Sure you will get away with other temps, for arguments sake say +/- 15c but for optimum results you should use the optimum temp - only you can determine what is optimum for you. You establish that for every filament you have, by trial and error; ref. your last sentence I am afraid I disagree; it is the only realistic way. You can read all you want but unless you sit by your printer, watching the print and seeing what the slicer is doing (and your settings) you will find it difficult to learn. That is what you are doing now!! Call it experimentation if you like. That is why F1 drivers practice; you cannot say to a driver that is the racing line you should take. It depends on the chassis, the power characteristics, the balance of the car, the tyres and their condition, the weather, how the driver is feeling. They sort it out by trial and error. I like your point on nozzles - yes there should be something like that. To be fair experimenting with different nozzles is a pretty recent phenomena; go back two years and it was not that prevalent for most people. By trial and error, err actually by pure luck I discovered that a 0.8 nozzle is really good for printing outward facing slopes e.g a vertical Y without support. My educated guess is that because the outer wall has more material (wider) being laid down, there is more material being laid down on the layer beneath, which in itself is sort of acting as a support, say 75% of .8 rather than 50% of .4

Awesome and it just shows that sometimes 3D printers are used for useful things

Bonjour Charlie je pense que peut-etre tu as tort. J'ai downloaded 15.04.4 and le "print speed mm/s" est toujours avec le Basic menu tab Quelle version de Cura utilises-tu?

Well it may differ between the old and new versions of Cura but somewhere you should see "Print speed (mm/s)" set that to 80 - it is 80 mm/s not 80%. In Cura 15.04.02 it is on the Basic tab

...and if you are having over extruding problems then with the settings we can help and also a pic of the printed piece would be useful