yellowshark

Yup you will find no problems with Colorfabb's filament - normally. But I did have a problem with one reel a couple of years ago which Colorfabb replaced immediately so it is good that you did measure it. At this stage best to work through the problem guide that @DidierKlein sent you to try and find the fault; and keep the link address, it is a great manual.

Ok I was nearly right

George, now you know you need to turn Windows Update off! And by the sounds of it you also need to get rid of that win 95 OS ad move to Windows 10 I am actually only using Win 8 on the print laptop but it has only glitched once in 2 years

Maybe go for yellow a can of white spray paint 8)

Can you please advise the settings in Cura that you are using - that will help us considerably. 1. in Cura sink the part into the print bed say 1mm - Cura advanced menu\Quality\cut off object bottom - set to 1.0 2. maybe your nozzle to bed measurement is too large - have you double checked this? 3. As an Ultimaker beginner do not set your 1st layer resolution lower than 0.300 Cura advanced menu\Quality\initial layer thickness - set to 0.3 Looking at the vertical walls where you have the poor finish, what is the thickness of those walls in your modelling software?

or set nozzle width to 0.39 I think I recall one of the illuminaries suggesting a couple of years ago

Hi @Nallath, may thanks for clarifying the position and explaining why you felt it was not worth getting usb to work on the UM2, and presumably the UM1. It is off no consequence to me, running a 3ntr - but I think the Forum is just wonderful , but I wonder why people do not use it; maybe Everything thing I have read on the forum over the past two years+ suggests it does not work or now work well. That "rumour" or whatever it is will put people off. Quite possibly for a lot of people using the USB could require another laptop and that may be too expensive to be justified. I run a dedicated Windows 8 laptop that only has Cura, Repetier Host and slic3r loaded. I know that |Robert| above said he has gone the other way and moved from USB (which was working) to SDcard but for me, if I were to buy another printer, I would not look at anything that did not have a working and supported USB interface - for my setup it is just so much easier.

I meant to also say.. I wonder if your bed is deformed, or poorly made if it is deflecting

Just noticed that I am getting notifications for threads I have already viewed and chosen not to follow

Interesting, you may well be right about the microcontroller ( I assume that is the wheely thing ) but it is not something I have every looked at. Maybe Repetier Host would overcome that for you - I think George uses RH on his UM

"I've been using a business card (the one that came with the ColorFabb filament) hoping that a bit thicker paper might be the cure. Well, now I don't have that smooshed-down plastic we want for the first layer." Using a thicker card means your z-offset is larger so your bed is further away from the nozzle, giving your that result. Also bear in mind that sheets of A4 paper can have a different thickness depending on where you are or where they were manufactured. eg UK seems to be different to mainland Eu. I use a thicker card for levelling but I change the z-offset in the gcode to adjust the nozzle to bed difference.

Two points I wonder whose filament you are using? Poor filament can cause the problems you are experience, i.e. poor/cheap filament will likely have inconsistent filament widths and once you go beyond 3.0mm in real-time measurement problems will start. Then the filament goes back to under 3.0mm and everything is fine until another length of filament with a wide diameter arrives... Suggest you get a micrometre and measure, at frequent intervals, the length of filament you will use for the print. Or your filament is stick on the reel - suggest you unwind the filament (the length you need for the print), from the spool and leave tidily on the floor or desk to avoid this. Failing that you have a partial blockage/rubbing/component failure somewhere in your filament feed path.

Hi @avogra, well I can only say that I think you are wrong. What is there to do - load the gcode. OK you could load the wrong gcode but equally you could copy the wrong version of the model to the SD card or load the wrong model from the gcode - and I always check the layer display in RH first to make sure I do have the right gcode. Miss the start button and press the wrong button - but then you could do that with the wheely thing. Press a wrong button/control slider during the print - well I guess so but the same applies equally to he wheely thing. For me running Repetier Host as the controller, using the usb interface is a no brainer. For example if I am configuring the correct nozzle to bed distance then all I need to do is display the gcode in RH, change the z-offset and restart - so much easier than going back to Cura and changing it.

Does this work with UM2? Did you try it? How to set it up? I have a 3ntr not a UM. I think that UM, for whatever reason, had problems in getting their USB interface to work and now do not support it - I could be wrong. @|Robert| seems to have had success with the UM USB interface.

Yup me too, if anything more now than before

Running over USB means you have a computer involved which means you can use Repetier Host to control the printer which is a lot easier than using that wheely thing . It also means you can rapidly change the slicer settings and reprint, easily check the gcode in RH if that turns you on, and whilst baby sitting the print you can get your next model sliced, and of course watch a movie etc

Incorrect press I am afraid. I have used the USB connection on my printer since the day I started, over two years ago - not a single problem. I go over wifi to the Solidworks laptop, transfer the stl to the 3D print laptop and print.

ditto @skinny-kid although I do use jeweller's files a lot more than the Dremel.

Hi @SandervG, there is a problem with the messaging function. On Sunday I sent a message(replying to someone who messaged me). Yesterday it was still not showing in my message display and it seemed likely that the recipient had not received the message. I resent it last night and when I awoke this morning it was in my message area and I had a reply from the recipient. But last night I then sent another message to the recipient and this morning that is not showing in my message area so I am assuming that again the recipient has not received the message. This morning I sent another message to the same recipient requesting an email address so that we can use email instead and that message is showing in my message area.

Ok firstly you are probably printing toooo hot. I am not familiar with your filament but with .300 printing at 25mm/s and 30mm/s I would not go above 210. Indeed for 2nd and subsequent layers I would be trying to see if I could go cooler. Of course filaments affect required extruder temp. but in 2 years of printing normal PLA I have never ever gone beyond 220 and that was for one filament only. Your bed levelling is probably not level - do it again, take your time and double check it. I suspect also your nozzle to bed distance is not right. If all of the things I mention do not solve your problem then look at this and adjust your distance. Raise you bed temp. to 65 ad take your speed from 25mm/s down to 20mm/s. In reality 25 is OK but as you have a problem 20 will be better. On that geometry I would use a brim to help adhesion - personally I would not even try it without a brim although some people seem to not like brims. Hell I cannot remember whether the infill speed on layer 1 is adjustable - you want it to run at the same speed on layer 1 - go to the Cura advanced tab and set infill speed to 0 to be sure. Are you sure your bed (a glass plate?) is absolutely clean? - that hole on the right hand side makes me wonder. Are you using any type of adhesive? That will help too. Make sure your fans are not running when you print layer 1 Also if you have another colour then white is not the best for getting a great result; certainly possible but it is probably more inconsistent than most other colours. Good luck

Hi @neotko I would be interested to know what brand/model of sand blaster you got. It is something I have thought about for a long time but I have never actually jumped in.

Ok I would like you to try a different tack. You do not say I think, what layer resolutions you are using. I will assume your bottom layer is .300 which is running at 20mm/s. You then move to some layer resolution printing at 30mm/s (now the speed used for printing all aspects of the geometry). Can you please keep this standard speed and reduce the layer resolution to .150 for layer two onwards. I have no idea of the size of your model but if you can, then please print two, even better three. at the same time. Load the model into Cura, right click on it and select "Multiply object" and set "No. of Copies" to 2. Go to the Tools menu tab and select "print all at once". Then report back what you see.

That mirrors our experience two years ago; flawless printing with Arctic white and problems with Colofabb's standard white. To be fair to ColorFabb we have found the other filaments we have used from them to be good, and we had an issue with Faberdashery's Butterceam

You can do it in Cura - go to the Advanced tab and under Speed, set the bottom layer speed to the speed you want.

You can certainly print your model at 40 mm/s but that is fast for the 1st layer and may cause you problems