yellowshark

If your minimum layer time is 5 secs and the print needs just a sec to complete a layer, then Cura introduces the code to move the head to one side, as you would expect/want!! Personally I would suggest you would be better with a minimum layer time of 10 secs. You need to give the layer just printed enough time to cool before printing the next layer. If you have a model with a large area on the x/y axes this will not be a problem as it may take 20,40,60 + secs to print. But with really small models it presents a problem; there are several solutions. 1. If you are printing fast then slow downs to 30 or 20mm/s 2. Make sure your fans are on 100% 3. Print multiple copies concurrently; you need a minimum of three copies due to Cura bug - Cura menu Tools, select item print all at once. 4. Use towers, one tower will not work due to Cura bug. Up to and including Cura vs. 15.04.4 ( I have not tried the new Cura) it has had an awful bug which for whatever reason has never fixed (@SandervG). If you have two copies or one tower, A&B Cura print in the sequence AB, BA, AB, BA..., rather than AB,AB,AB... If you have three copies or two Towers, ABC; it prints ABC, CBA,ABC,CBA - so you will get one good copy, B

Hi @dergoldstein, sorry I seemed to have missed you last post. Yes you are right, for PLA it is around 180, might be a bit less, my memory fails me. I have certainly manually fed (which would equate I think to your "insert material" on your UM printer) PLA at 190. That makes me suspicious of your 205; but I have a 3ntr rather than a UM so I cannot state absolutely that you have an issue, I just have a suspicion

No doubt you will need to do a lot of web searching! Here are some insert sites; generally I found the people I communicated with most helpful - mentioning additivve manufacturing/3D printing seemed to gain their attention! www.tappex.co.uk spirol.com theinsertcompany.com fasteningsolutionsuk.com

Yup, I have used both Taulman and XTC-3D but not together! That job, yes I saw it on the Taulman site several months back, in on my list of personal projects

Another option you may have is to use an insert. I use metal inserts for plastic to screw two pieces together, where at least one part is 3D printed. Whether or not you can get the same thing for pushing two pieces together I do not know; also your pieces just may be too thin to use such inserts but I thought I would alert you to the option

I see you are in the UK; Faberdashery make excellent filament. You can also get good PLA from Colorfabb in Holland, who maybe marginally more expensive with the freight but given they are outside of the UK they deliver very quickly

Good to hear you are up and running again and now have more experience

Hi it would be useful to know what PLA you are using, manufacturer and type/colour; also what printer are you using. I have been printing for 2,5 years, probably 80% PLA and have never experienced a break in the Bowden tube.

Lol the opposite for me. 'Keep me logged in " I expect to do just that, not to re-sign me back in when I switch the computer back on. 'Remember me' I expect to sign me on the next time I visit the site afresh Superfast here with Windows 7 and IE whatever the latest is

Hi @bbureau, I cannot help specifically but a couple of points. We design in Solidworks and some of the work is dimensionally critical and comes out fine in Cura. So I do not believe that Curas has a bug per se in this area. I know you will have done it already but you need to check your export settings and system settings in Inventor. As arch enemies I am sure Inventor and Solidworks are as good as each other in the area of .stl file creation so I cannot but help think that the problem is with your Inventor end.

Are you printing them concurrently or sequentially? What is your first layer thickness and print speed and bed temp and extruder temp.? Are you using adhesive? What? What material are you using? Are the fans off for the first few layers? What is your 2nd layer to top layer thickness? Is the extruder temp. the same as above? The top layer on the first one looks very poor - would you agree or is that how you expect it to look?

In the past I have found the following to help with this run the walls at 1.6 slow down, say 30mm/s set your speeds the same, so infill/inner speed/outer speed as all 0 and print speed 30 run as cool as you can. I was testing a new filament today and started at a temp of 200 which looked fine but I dialled it down in steps to 180 which also looked fine and I chose 185

Thanks for the info, most helpful. I have just loaded Cura 15.04.4 and the Basic screen is as I would expect - but yours is not. Your pic is missing several items under speed and temperature; importantly you are missing printing temperature!!!! Are you using the correct Cura - did you download it from the Ultimaker website? Anyway what is your printing temperature and how did you set it? Your said "I printed a lot of things this month, but since yesterday each time the material comes loose from the print bed after a few time" Do you mean "....after a few layers", or something else? Please note that whilst you have calibrated your printer that does not mean it is right. Often it needs some practice to get it right. What did you use, was it a sheet of paper or an Ultimater card? If paper did you measure it to be sure it measures 0.1mm? Does your 1st layer stick to the bed? Is it flat and smooth? Or does it have lines and or bumps? A picture would be helpful. Great that you are doing the Atomic test. You need to do it several times. It may help you to use a different colour PLA so you can better see and dislodged bits of PLA. You need to do the pull several times not just once. If you see no material I would do it at least another two or three times. If you see material and then that disappears I would also do it another two or three times in case there is still some more in the extruder.

Ok Idemaxel, assuming you are getting a good flow of filament from the nozzle there are only a few things which affect bed adhesion. So the first thing you should do is be sure the filament flow is OK. Can you manually extrude say 30mm of filament, does it have the right width and look, without any gaps or bubbles. If so in theory we re looking then at what you have changed between it being OK and failing. Are you always using the SAME... print bed temp. what is it? first layer height what is it? first layer speed what is it? fan settings what are they? adhesive are you using adhesive? if so what type? when did you last apply it? print door position is it open? ambient temp. Is it the same or does it vary nozzle to bed distance And are you sure that your nozzle to bed distance is correct? Are you printing on a glass plate or something else, or on the print bed. From what you have said I think it is unlikely your print head is damaged. What is likely is that you have PLA stuck inside the nozzle which is causing a blockage. Alternatively your white coupler could be damaged. Try the Atomic Method to clean the nozzle - https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/149-atomic-method

I understand what you are saying and why I do not think so but I WILL double check next time and update.

When you say it starts printing in the corner, is just extruding filament as part of the priming initiation or does it actually print the entire model there? If the latter then it would helpful if you could post the first 30 or so lines of your gcode, including the first few lines after the comment ';Layer:0'

210c is too hot for PLA at 0.05 layer and 40mm/s. It my be that this is causing it to overflow a bit and dripping the filament at the end. Start at 190c, you might be able to go lower. Also the 1st picture confuses me. Is that two separate models?, one facing up and one facing down?, the sizing looks different; although you have a raft so that might be deceiving me. When the printing stops does the nozzle stay put? - I see you have a 15sec minimum layer time with no z-lift; I am not sure if the minimum layer time is executed on the last layer as I rarely print anything which hits the minimum layer time. As BrayChristopher said you may be better printing two or three models to hit your minimum layer time (10 secs would be OK) without the printhead stopping; and you will need to reduce you print temp. to avoid stringing if you do that

@SandervG Oh I see now! Yes the number does surprise me. What is good though is that the search engine, for me, excluded the 2nd item on your list , because it was about a bed not about filament

Hi @SandervG, well I always read the material threads and I am surprised it only displayed two, which were at the top of the list, which was good. Of course I assume that the search engine would not find posts with spelling mistakes such as "carbon fiber". Sorry but I do not understand ... 'some hits in "support" ' in this context.

Never having used the search I gave it a try. I entered Carbon Fibre Filament. The first two items on the list were relevant. I checked 5 or 6 more on the page, which were not. I suspect the following 517 pages were also irrelevant.

On your Robot model print you are running too hot. At .100 and 45mm/s I would be inclined to start at 190c (assuming this is normal PLA or PLA/PHA) . make sure you have a minimum layer time of at least 10secs and have the fans at 100%. It is a pretty small piece, I personally would print it slower starting with 30mm/s.

Thanks guys, it sounds a really interesting filament so I am thinking I will dive in a give it a try.

Excuse my ignorance; was the boiling to test the temp. resistance or was it part of the production process. There are no production comments on the website although the Silk filament has extruder and bed temps + print speed - does it come with instructions for those aspects or did you read this somewhere else?

Lol yes my mental maths were incorrect :DThat would of course be 2.5 mm thickness all around the inner cube of space. Well if you are relating the object to be a donut and the donut ring to be the space inside then yes. Except the donut ring is not visible from the outside because the top and bottom of the ring both have 5mm of material at the perimeter, so probably not the right analogy. And in the centre of the ring is a 4mm square column 10mm high. Edit the rest of it which was equally inaccurate/confusing. Put it another way - in your 3D software you draw a 20mm cube. The cube is hollow. The thickness of the cube all round is 5mm, which gives you a 10mm cube of space in the middle. Running vertically, through the middle of the void is a 4mm square column; by definition the height of the column is 10mm. On the four sides of the column you have 3mm of space. ... my original post from para 2 follows on it is a 20mm cube with 5mm walls and zero infill and 5mm thick top and bottom layers. Then running vertically though the cube, positioned on the x,y axes at dead centre, there is a 4mm square column. Hope that clarifies.

Once you have the bed calibrated successfully you should not need to calibrate it again for a long time. I last calibrated my bed about a year ago. But you will, probably, need to calibrate your bed if you change your nozzle. I have also read of people needing to recalibrate when changing filament type. That is not something I have experienced but I can imagine that that may be necessary, as different filament types can have different flow characteristics.