yellowshark

Also if you have a 1st layer height of 0 then that will cause you problems After you have re-levelled the bed, and check it carefully and again, set 1st layer height to .300 (do not go below this whilst learning, it only makes life harder). Try reducing extruder temp to no more that 220; you don't say what your print speed is but 220 should cover you for most things and certainly OK for 1st layer. Have fans turned off for the 1st 2 layers (no fans on 1st layer!!). Probably set fan to max 40-50%. Do you have a digital thermometer/ If so check the bed is 60 pretty much all over for a large part before starting print.

Thanks PeggyB, just what I needed, much better than trying to use Transform! Before After

Is it the same model(s) that you successfully printed that is now failing - and are you using exactly the same settings you used when the model was printed successfully? If so then I do agree with you that it is suspicious that a problem not experienced before has arisen immediately after a firmware update. It could though be the filament; have you tried measuring the width of the filament along a metre or two of length. It may well be advisable for you to get a different filament and see if the problem persists.

IF the first few layers on every model are fine then I agree with Didier. I suspect you are doing a lot of retraction and the drive wheel pressure on the filament is too tight and you are chewing up the filament

If I cut off .22mm of the "bottom" then as suggested above I get a brim. In theory both "ends" have the same geometry; they have a fillet and chamfer to smooth them. Print setup is with a 1st layer of .3mm. Yup you are right Daid, layer 0 is blank; if I inset by .22mm then layer 0 is as expected. I will give the model edge some close scrutiny. Interestingly with layer 0 set to .3 I have to inset the model by .22 to get a brim. If I change layer 0 to .1 I have to inset the model by .42 to get a brim. Given that the inset is in mm and not layers, I am not sure I understand that.

Hi I am trying to add supports by using Meshmixer. But I have a problem. There is a lip going around the top edge and supports have been added all the way around which I do not want. I have deleted them from the exterior of the wall on the rhs. If you look at the wall at the top left you can just see one of these supports in the top left corner. I need to turn the model in the region of 180 degrees to get at the supports. But I need the green handle, not the blue and red handles, to turn it. How do I display the green handle? I did try using one of the displayed handles to re-orientate the model so that the green handle would be displayed and took a note of the number of degrees I had moved the model in the other plane. This sort of worked in that the green handle was then displayed but the handle I had used was not displayed so after turning the model around I could not ultimately correct the orientation by moving the other plane back to where it was. Baffled!

Re your secondary issue I have experienced that several times, actually probably most times but I rarely build organic models so I have never tried to fix it. I suspect the answer lies in one of, or both, using a different layer resolution(my gut tells me thinner but I am not actually sure) or increasing the bottom/top number of layers(which I feel is the better solution.)

Hi Jim I tried to send you a message but you cannot receive messages yet. If I remember correctly ( I could be wrong) you have to make 3 or 5 posts to get access to the messaging system and you have only made 1

Seriously I find I always throw away the last 30% or so

LOL that is why I use Faberdashery, it doesn't come in rolls

No I had not because I cannot really do that for the finishedd product. But a good idea for the detective work. I will try that tomorrow

Loaded the model into Cura 13.11, the software used to slice it previously. Discovered it was the same there i.e. one way up gets a brim the other way does not. As said earlier, get a brim in Slic3r irrespective of the orientation.

Loaded the model into InStep and Netfabb and both software reported zero errors, unsurprisingly for a mesh created by Solidworks

Thanks guys, this is the model, the orange one although they are both the same apart from size. . It gets printed vertically.This evening I discovered that if I turned it upside down - or right way up, there is no top or bottom - I got a brim. Turn it back no brim. I will check the mesh tomorrow; it was done in Solidworks which is normally tight in producing 100% meshes but I guess you never know. I am sure both top and bottom have chamfered/filleted edges, not that I would have thought that would be the cause. .300mm all layers including layer 1. I reinstalled 14.07 but no change. For sure I am sure it is a problem with this model and not Cura never printing brims but the model was printed back in April with a brim and has had two minor mods since then. Maybe it just happened to be laying on the print bed the other way up.

.... oh and I tried it with version 14.01 too.

Hi, tearing my hair out here, never seen this before. I have Platform Adhesion Type set to Brim and under Expert settings Brim set to 20. There is no brim in the Cura layers view, in the Repetier-Host view, having transferred the g-code and nothing on the print bed. I have switched the settings to different values and back again and rebooted the PC. Swapped over to Slic3r and no problem. Anyone know what is going on?

Nicolonux is spot on with diffused lighting. Avoid flash if possible; its direct lighting will make the model look lower quality than it looks to the eye. If you have to then bounce it off the ceiling. Although I will confess that under certain circumstances fill-in flash can be useful If possible use a high f number so everything is in focus. You are probably indoors with a low shutter speed – use a tripod or rest camera on the table to avoid camera shake. If doing this for diagnosis then take several shots to give a 360 degree view. Get rid of the surrounding garbage – use a surround, one of the first things I 3D printed.

Hi I am just wondering if anyone has used the spiralize option with Bronzefill and what the outcomes was?

I read that Bronzefill is 3X heavier than normal PLAs at 3.9gm/cm3. Does anyone know the weights of PLA, ABS and Taulman Nylons? I am trying to get a lighter weight for a particular model and wondering what is out there that would give a lighter weight than PLA?

I can see you problem; I do not think I would be very confident in printing a piece across the entire bed without using a brim - in fact I wouldn't A couple of points on warping. This will depend on the specific printer but if you test the bed in the middle and it says, say, 60 deg it is quite probable that outer areas of the bed are cooler. So it maybe that you would want to wait awhile until the entire bed (or at least the area you are using) has reached 60 before starting the print. I have never tried nor seen a raft. But I wonder if you tried a raft this would help with your warping. The downside I guess would be a need to do some sanding afterwards to remove any remnants of the raft from the surface.

Hi Izo2 a couple of weeks ago I did quite a lot of printing with Colorfabb black using .200 @ 60mm/s with a temp of 210 which I dropped to 207 after layer 1. The piece had an overhang along the entire length so I had the fans on 100% after layer 2. Now, I had a search through my test blocks and found one for CF black using .200 @60mm/s with a temp of 225. It is really unusual for me to go over 220 (I can only think of one other PLA filament) so I am assuming that I was struggling with 210/220 and had to push with 225. Why the difference - do not know! The only setting difference would be the fans which for the test block would have been running at 40 or 50

Thanks guys I think I have the picture now. Without having done a detailed check, which I will do, it sounds as if it might be good replacement for nylon if you want a bigger selection of colours; especially as it seems to have FDA approval.

Yup you are right on Meshlab too, except for me it did not crash a lot, it crashed every time, to a point where my patience ran out. To be fair to F3D their automated stitching software did not crash once but it had a problem stitching two of the meshes together. The demonstrator did feel that if he took one of the pictures again that would resolve the problem but he also made it clear that the software was still under development, i.e. not really ready for release although the Kickstarter people would be getting it. My personal view was that it failed the stitching test but if I waited until next year it would probably be fine.

Oh sure you are "right" and it does more than just match against the photometric stereo data (which was all descriptively covered by my term "sophisticated software" ) My point was that it operates as a camera not a scanner. YOU have to take separate pictures to get a 360 degree all around view. Each of these pictures has to be setup. For each picture you have to hold a measurement card against the section of the object being pictured and line up your camera so that it focuses on the card and validates the distance between the lens to the object before a shot can be fired. It is my understanding that this part of the process will not be required in the future following a specific upgrade release of the software. The end result is of course the same.

Until today I had pretty much ignored XT, seeing it as a neutral/transparent material. But now I see it comes in colours. So my question is - why (and why not) would I want to use XT purple rather than PLA/PHA purple. And on the final outcome does one give a better quality surface finish than the other?