stu_le_brew
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Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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last time I needed to transport my UM2 I used the original, box and used cable ties to secure the print head from moving also I removed the bowden tube. The only other thought is to ensure nothing can move (or fall) on to the print bed glass - you also could remove it.
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the Bondtech has much more torque that the UM feeder because of the gear box. my only slight criticism is when an object has huge amounts of retractions the motor can get hot - so I have mounted several heat sinks on the motor to help get rid of it - works for me
do you mean the UM2 original feeder? or the upgraded?
One of the first upgrades I made to my UM2 was an improved belt feeder (three years ago I think) (link to site) which improved the torque and produced better results. It was not without problems so when I came across the BondTech more than a year ago now I jumped at what looked like another step function improvement (have to admit swallowing several times as its not cheap) it just works with any materiel even flexible materiel. It does benefit from periodic cleaning of the teethed gears inside
I have just bought a UM2+ feeder from China and can see that it should be an improvement over the origional but have not installed it yet - its going to be part of the UM dual feeder upgrade for my machine.
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the Bondtech has much more torque that the UM feeder because of the gear box. my only slight criticism is when an object has huge amounts of retractions the motor can get hot - so I have mounted several heat sinks on the motor to help get rid of it - works for me
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I continued with Bowden
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I would recommend the BondTech feeder which has a geared motor its very much more powerful than the UM upgrade its not cheap but one of the best improvements I have on my UM2
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you could try last layer polish (I think that's what it is called in latest versions of Cura), if that does not fix it then you could try z hop with retraction - but it will lengthen print times
You may be referring to the 'ironing' in experimental features.
you are right of course - thanks
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you could try last layer polish (I think that's what it is called in latest versions of Cura), if that does not fix it then you could try z hop with retraction - but it will lengthen print times
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when you say a new PLA I assume you mean a different manufacturer, I have seen this problem (with the same manufacturer) just by changing colour of PLA
I think they are called 'artefacts' they can be reduced/eliminated by lowering the print temperature by a say five degrees which should make a big difference
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what layer height are you using and size of print nozzle ?
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Have you checked in Cura machine settings that you have the correct setting for the flavour of GCode for you printer ?
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I think maybe it has to do with the way you change layer heights on a Prusa I3, which sorry I know very little about, or maybe the way Cura is set-up for your printer ?
you could try making the layer height bigger to see if that changes to an even worse print - at least you would see if it does change, you would only need to print a few layers not the whole object
are you sure that the file is being correctly written to the SDcard when you make changes to the layer height
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I have just completed a print of this object, much easier after understanding from @BiaC that it had to be scaled by a factor of ten !
https://www.dropbox.com/s/95x8ht607h2i0p2/DSC_2096_2.jpg?dl=0
Looks OK to me, my parameters Print speed 40mm/s,infill 55mm/s, temp 210, layer height 0.10 nozzle 0.4
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I have tried a print - this is a very small item indeed, when I open it in Cura it is 4.21mm wide by 1.95mm high - so my question to you @BiaC is this the correct size ?
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Just a thought - is the filament at or near to the end of the reel, I have once had a problem with some filament causing extra friction in the bowden tube as it seems to remember being tightly curled on the reel.
Not had this problem since I upgraded to the BondTech feeder which is very much more powerful
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PM sent to you with an offer to print the model
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before offering any input to you it would be helpful to know your other print parameters
e.g. print head temp, speed, layer height, fan speed etc
I usually print PLA with a bed temp of 50
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I would try smaller layer height
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I have made a lot of use of FormFutura and Colorfab for PLA, both produce good results.
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My suggestion is to check the fan connector which is inside the print head block, IMO its a design flaw - the wires are only crimped on to the connector.
On my printer this has become detached several times, the same applies to the two side fans.
In my case I have soldered the connectors which has improved reliability for me
good luck
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On an UM2+ I think the "hot end fan" come on at 40 degrees, on older models they are on all the time
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Great video thanks GR5
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it should be salvageable, put it back into the machine and heat to 180 degrees (no need to load any filament though), let it soften for a few mins and then remove bit by bit the mess, using what ever tools you have to hand - even a long tooth pick should do
keep an eye on the temperature as if say the temp sensor is trashed then it could heat to destruction
Hard to say what caused this
good luck
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Stu
thanks for asking I'm putting the printed parts to gether today but just found that the magnets are not a tight fit they push into the recess but don't stop there. I'm pondering the use of super glue ?? any thoughts, the printer is not apart at moment the wiring is next but time is scarce..
I have used super glue to stick the magnets in place as suggested on the Mark 2 website
I and am about to do the installation - when I get time
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it looks like a problem with the micro switch at the back left (its fixed to the top of the printer by two screws)
Have you recently dis assembled the machine,maybe its become disconnected from the mother board ? Its not to difficult to replace, you can test its function with a simple electrical meter
you should be able to hear it click when you move the head manually to the left side of the machine
Printing Ultimaker Robot on Ultimaker 2 +
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
In principle it sounds like bed adhesion is your problem but to be able to offer any detailed help you need to post the settings you are using, also what materiel are you printing with