restinpieces

Interesting! How would you compare your direct drive extruder to your flexdrive extruder?

PLA ist bei mir irgendwie gar kein Problem ABS war schwieriger. Hier mal meine Vorgehensweise: PLA: Platte 60°C Düse 210°C Vor dem Druck die Platte mit reinem Alkohol und einem Küchentuch gut reinigen. Drucken ABS: Platte 100°C Düse 260°C Platte mit Alkohol reinigen. Dünn ABS cement auf die kalte Platte aufbringen. Muss nicht schön sein, aber 80% der Modellfläche sollten abgedeckt sein. Drucken Den Cement kann man nach dem Druck mit einem Ceranfeldschaber oder etwas ähnlichem leicht abschaben. Ich lasse ihn auch manchmal für 2-3 Drucke einfach drauf. Viel Erfolg!

Warum klebst du Tape auf die gute beheizte UM2 platte???? Spar dir die Kohle reiß das Tape runter und werde glücklich Dein Freund heißt ABS Cement.

Zieh mal den Schlauch aus dem Printhead und teste mit MOVE wie stark der Druck vom Filament ist. Wenn du mit einer Hand den Schlauch hältst und mit dem Daumen auf das Filament drückst sollte der Feeder deinen Finger locker wegschieben können auch wenn du dagegen hältst. Ist das nicht der Fall ist was faul. Ich habe das manchmal, aber ein Neustart behebt das Problem bei mir. Ich stehe allerdings ziemlich auf dem Schlauch was das sein könnte. Meine einzige Erklärung, der Stepper Treiber hat eine Macke.

I have printed only ABS so far. I'll probably never test PLA because I'm quite happy with the ABS. Its as easy printable as PLA for me and has nicer properties. I will try PC and PA as soon as I get the 40W heater.

Da ich meistens mit brim drucke wegen der besseren Haftung stelle ich den Abstand während des ersten und zweiten Umlaufs ein, das ist völlig problemlos und anhand der Spur kann man einen perfekten Abstand einstellen. Man sieht außerdem sofort ab wann es haftet. Gereinigt wird mit Alkohol. PLA ohne Alles, ABS und PC mit ABS Zement

I finished my E3D conversion. This is what it looks like. Apart from the PID Values I did not change anything in code. The 25W heater is a bit weak fot the E3D, but it works. I'll probably switch to the E3D heater later. Tools: 2,5mm 3mm 5mm Drills M3 + M6 tapper and a metal saw The messy cable is an external temp probe to check the temperature

I'm also in the process of converting my UM2 to E3D. I figured it would be possible to use the Thermistor with a little hack on the UM2 board, but decided to go the mechanical way and drill a hole into the E3D hotend. I'm also aiming for higher temperatures and the E3D manual states that the thermistor will be damaged over 295ºC. The problem is I can't position it deep enough into the aluminium so the temperature reading is a bit off. My Next step is to make a custom Aluminium block to fit the PT100 and the UM" heater in it.

I'm printing Polycarbonat with 280°C with only the software change. No problem so far. I took the nose apart to take a look at the insulator and didn't see anything worrisome.

If u have an old slotted screwdriver u can file it like a chizel the flat part sharp and the corners slightly angled. get it in there an give it a well dosed strike with a hammer. If the material is soft enough it will grip and u can screw it out. BUT this is the last resort i do that if all is lost and sometimes it works.

Alright, thx guys for the input. It took me a while to get back on the topic. Here is what I did. I made a test model and analyzed the gcode The model has a 10mm section which has a layer time >5s so it should not be slowed down. Above this section is a section which gets smaller so somewhere in there the minimum layer time of 5s should be undercut. I made a calc sheet to analyze the G-code. And from the G-code it seems all ok to me. There is the first section which ramps up to 60% and there is the last section where the Fan almost reaches 100% because the layer time is lower then 5s ( I assumed 256 in value should be 100% fan speed) So while everything seems fine with the gcode I'm back to checking the fan settings while its running. The 35% which I get on the UM2 screen might be, as u said cyan, the 60% from material setting multiplied by the 60% from the fan setting. But that still does not explain why the fan got slowed down during the parts where layer time was <5s.

Ans another observation. when the print comes to the part where there is less material and therefor the time in one level is shorter the fan slows down. I had it manually set to 60% and in smaller levels it slowed down to 43%. Thats totally the opposit of what it describes in the tool tip and what I would expect.

Thanks for the replies. I did not mess with the tune menu other then look at the current fan speed, it was able to change. I thought I had it after your replies and tried these settings: Fan full on at height: 2mm Fan speed min: 60% Fan speed max: 100% What I expected: Fan is off until 2mm at 2mm it starts with 60% and stays there until the print forces slower move speeds. When the movement drops the fan speed rises up to 100% depending on the movement. Unfortunately I was to busy to make a protocol but what I saw was, that well above 2mm the fan speed was 34% and until the end of the print it never reached 60% So, I'm still confused like heck

Hi guys I tired to figure out how the fans works, but I'm still scratching my head. Here are all the settings I know that affect fan speed. Maybe I missed one or maybe I don't understand them. Fan full on at height: 0,4mm Fan speed min: 20% Fan speed max: 100% I check at 2/3 print time and the fans are running at 11% speed I mean wtf :?: :?: :?: and they stayed there for a good while. They did not seem to be in some kind of ramp.

Hi guys, recheived my replacement part on wednesday. Therefor it was 2 1/2 weeks for me. Not the fastest but I'm ok with it. Overall support was friendly and it seemd they realy try to help. They gave me a wrong or changed tracking number (Oo) which didn't help with the confusion and impatiance but at least the part is here and I can print again. Good luck to the ones still waiting.

Hallo zusammen, ich habe das selbe Problem. Habe das ziemlich schnell auf die Software geschoben, da es bei mir geholfen hat vor jedem Druck die Z-achse manuel aus dem Schalter zu heben, sodass sie beim Start erstmal auf 0 fährt. Mittlerweile habe ich aber bessere Ergebnisse mit folgender Technik. Ich druck das skirt mit bis zu 60mm Abstand dadurch fährt die Düsen bei fast allen drucken einen schönen Kreis um das Bett und ich kann wärend dessen das Bett justieren, das finde ich nochmal deutlich genauer, als die Blatt Papier methode, da man direkt die Dicke des Materials einstellen kann.

I find the result pretty good! It's a very nice clown face... Oh wait that should not be a clown face u say? :mrgreen:

Good news at least for me. I got a reponds from the support. They will place an order for the destroyed part. I don't know what got theit attention though.

One week! And still no repsonds from the support. This is getting ridiculous.

Yes, unfortunatelly I broke the nut. I didn't realise how thin the wall is untill I destroyed it :( You can't really apply any force to it :(

You can be a minion, too. Only color restrictions apply

Unfortunatelly I dont know how to replace that part. Its the unusual nut thats screwed onto the Nozzle. Its called "B1310-Z2P-A Hot end Isolator" Thanks for the holiday info. Still haven't heard of the support yet. Damn I have so much I want to print!

Hello guys, does somone know how long it normaly takes the support to contact one? I have send a ticket on sunday and havn't heard of the support yet (they sent me an autorepsonder of course)

feste drücken. vorrausgesetzt der Feeder läuft um material einzuziehen, musst du trotzdem noch ziemlich kräftig drücken bis er das filament schnappt. Schräg anschneiden könnte evt helfen.

Thx for the help. It worked with the reset to factory defaults from the LCD menu.The changed code worked afte the reset. Thx for the info on pronterface I didn't know that programm, it is realy handy. And using Gcode to calibrate would have been much faster then printing a calibrating print.