ataraxis

At least at RAMPS 1.4 the layout is the same on all important points so don't worry too much about the jumpers - just remove them! (you can - if you want - remove ALL THREE).

ah, yes - i see! that's a good point, it would be nice if you could apply at least a bit of pressure to the belt and maybe some kind of a "two-piece-enclosure" would we also nice, one part from the left and one from the right. such an fixation would apply way less force to the bushing, maybe we should really redesign that thing. on the other hand... in practice I didn't recognized any play that is caused by the xy-blocks - until now, neither at the bushings nor at the belts. if you are really going to make you own design: what CAD software do you use?

What do you mean by Z at 200?

I (we) first thought it is necessary, but Tsp42 suggested another way. The reason why we soldered at first is that I (we) overlooked that there is no pull-up/pull-down resistor here. Anyway No problem

Better? 1) UMO Mainboard: Open (remove) the jumpers MS2 and MS1 everywhere you install the SSS driver 2) Solder the pin-header, the pins should face in the same direction as the components 3) Mount the heatsink (on the other side, where no components are!) 4) plug the driver in (direction: CFG1-3 on the drivers to MS1-3 on the mainboard) 5) Set the current with the little screw on the drivers (start at around 0.8A and increase if necessary) 6) Create a new firmware at http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ 6.1) Toggle "invert axis" everywhere you install the new drivers. 6.2) If you install one for the z-axis: Set the steps/mm for the z-axis to 1066.6666 6.3) Upload the new firmware via CURA

hi dintid, i will revise the instructions, gimme some minutes

You are right @lars86! my assertion/assumption was just false - it isn't the same diameter and i'm glad you recognized it! at least the effective (pitch) diameter... the calculation goes like this: 200 steps/rev * 16 microsteps/step ≙ pi * effective diameter effective diameter = (teeth pitch * teeth number) / pi that leads to: 1mm ≙ 3200 microsteps / (pi * ((teeth pitch * teeth number) / pi)) 1mm ≙ 3200 microsteps / (teeth pitch * teeth number) 1mm ≙ 3200 microsteps / (2.0mm * 20) 1mm ≙ 80.00 microsteps In the end armstrong and lars86 were right, you have to change the steps/mm to exactly 80! thank you for the comment! for more informations about the dimensions: 2GT/GT2, MXL

wow! this is awesome!

I'm sure together we will solve it but try marking the pulleys/couplings and shafts position at first, tell us your results then.

do you already have installed direct drive? is it still the h6 shaft? first idea: still too much friction and therefore you are losing steps in - at least - one direction. is it possible to you to move the printhead by "two fingers"? is there more force necessary in one direction than in the other? what happens when you increase the steppers current to it's maximum? (see here) second idea: check your pulleys (and couplings), maybe some of them are loose. you can also mark the position to see if they move.

Wanted to post that a long time before... This is the result of the original drivers compared to the SSS drivers. The noise level is measured by a contact microphone, one directly on the the stepper, one on the UMO case (lower and upper channel). Ignore the high pitches on the the beginning of every part, those are caused by the loose MXL belts (which i replaced by GT2 in the meanwhile)

he should measure the diameter of the printed part for sure,... this is a good example of "separation of concerns". real deviations are not part of the responsibility of the modeler - something he could/should think about are tolerances. if chopmeister makes a model that fits "in theory", it is up to you an me to adjust the settings (hard- or/and software) so that the reality fits the theory (with some tolerances for sure).

I don't like to contradict @lars86, you may have your reasons, but i didn't faced that problem and I think the only reason to tighten your screws that much is the fear that the screws could loose more and more. in that case I would suggest spring washers, as - in my eyes - everyone should use at moving parts.

better than the ones included, like it!

hey macua, yes the original ones are f8 (minus-minus-tolerance) and also hard-chrome-plated (as i describe here). it's important for the ease of movement and especially for the original bearings to keep that tolerance (i also ordered h6 at first but had then contact to someone "who knows it better" ). I had no problems with the linear slide bearing (the bronze ones) and the f8 shafts. therefore I would suggest to buy new rods again, or - if this is cheaper - new bearings (maybe linear ball bearings? i also thought about that).

the pulleys are WAY better than the original ones, there is almost no play and also two set screws on every pulley

nice @macua85, could you do some before/after pictures of an high quality print maybe? would be nice if you confirm my results.

@lars86: you can also choose china post (as i did), to germany it was 4 USD tell them to stick the invoice on the outside of the package, otherwise it will be handed to the customs. shipping was around 2 weeks from china to germany, and and additionally week it was at the customs... @macua85: mine is also direct driven, i can recommend it. but be careful what kind of couplings you install, otherwise you will have some backlash again. you should easily get some metal bellow couplings (which are backlash free) in china i guess

hey macua, no - since the diameter is the same as before you don't have to change anything else (but the belts and pulleys) ;)on the other hand i really recommend new x/y-blocks! chopmeister's design is my personal favourite. i tried some others too but i prefer the easy to print and solid design of chopmeister's: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/twisterblocks they also include a GT2 clamp that does not lead to any tension at the belt.

The length is perfect, therefore I do not use tensioners anymore. I read that - when you use the GT2 belts - there is no need for tensioners at all. I don't know if that is still true after some hundred prints but at least at first it is.

Hi gadgetfreak, i never tried it but since the only difference is the place where it is mounted, i guess "yes". The design where i got the idea from is https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-feeder-on-um1 and he is using it

Hi lars, I ordered at robotdigg.com GT2 Pulley 20 teeth, 8mm Bore GT2 Belt, 303 teeth, 606mm long, 6mm wide, closed-loop http://www.robotdigg.com/product/23/GT2-Pulley-20-Teeth-8mm-Bore http://www.robotdigg.com/product/275/606mm-long-6mm-wide-closed-loop-gt2-belt

new version 4.0 is out which uses 4 fan dampeners (http://www.amazon.com/GELID-Solutions-Silicone-Vibration-Dampening/dp/B003Q5GI2U): the noise is much much lower now as you can see here:

after waiting around a month or so for a new password i'm finally back. and yes, you are so damn right... my fault! thank you very much for the feedback, i update it btw... is there anything that works on this forum after the huge "update"?

Hi everyone, I installed new pulleys and belts (GT2) on my Ultimaker Original and - at first - didn't recognized any difference . But when you take a photo through a macrolens you can see how much difference there actually is: size: MXL: GT2: The other settings where exactly the same, therefore i really really can recommend it to everyone that owns an UMO. You have to change the steps/mm to 80.00! (thanks ) Have a nice day, Ataraxis