ataraxis

yes you are right sorry to the others and thank you for the information tommy!

Thanks! What kind of feeder do you use and why RUMBA and the E3D? What are the advantages of those two things?

Haha oh hell yeah i can imagine What kind of heated bed do you use? (and what's WAF?)

Wow Tommy! Nice looking Ultimaker btw!!!

little update: did some high quality prints and didn't recognized any quality worsening. nice!

btw... i first forgot to invert the z-axis, after that i forgot to invert the y-axis and, when rebuilding marlin, i forgot to double the z-steps ensure that you don't

Done... Even if the video is not so impressive, it is a really big difference!!! (not at every speeds, but at most - especially up to around 80mm/s)

hey wombl, no problem, thank you for your video and pictures too. can you confirm the instructions? my drivers will arrive tomorrow

not bad man... you are right xD

it's a bit hard to see on the cam but it was really annoying and looked exactly like yours: it was also gone when the power switch was off but the usb cable plugged in

edit: removed reply - see here.

Had exactly! the same at the same spot!!! I got a replacement from ultimaker - if it is esd - it would be easy to shield it i guess by simply prevent touching the screen, the funny thing is that two displays have the same problem in the same area (coincidence?). But i think if it is already damaged it is too late :/

Hey Zoev89, no problem - i was lost in information about different approaches spread over many websites, so I wrote it mainly for myself at first 30mm? Haha, sweet

This is a collection of information on how to install the SSS-drivers (Watterott electronics). It is based on other threads at this forum and information by watterott, reprap forums, TMC and so on... thanks to wombl1, JonnyBischof, Dim3nsioneer, makerSpatz and everyone else from whom I collected information WHAT? WHY? Most important fact at first: The SSS drivers are way more silent than the originals! And, as you can see at the following picture, the SilentStepStick-Drivers are pin compatible to the original A4988 drivers (at all important points). The main visible difference is that the components are installed on the side that is facing toward the mainboard! That means, that the heatsink, on the other hand, is installed not directly on the IC, but on the thermal pads/vias on the other side. You have to use a non-conductve tape or sth like that to install the heatsink. The silentstepstick drivers are based on the TMC2100, that driver-IC is able to make 16 real microsteps per full step. That is way enough in the sense of quality since a normal stepper motor cannot follow a higher resolution. But there is one outstanding feature: microstep interpolation! That means that if the CPU asks the TMC2100 to make one microstep, it makes instead 16 interpolated microsteps per every real microstep. This is where the 256 microsteps come from (16*16), there is no need for the CPU to calculate 256 microsteps but the driver does it anyway. And... more microsteps lead to (way) more more silent steppers Finally the continuous current is max. 1.2A - that is only just enough since the A4988 is also set to 1.15A (according to Ultimaker). --- QUICK GUIDE (if you don't want to read the entire post)1) UMO Mainboard: Open (remove) the jumpers MS2 and MS1 everywhere you install the SSS driver 2) Drivers: Solder the pin-header, the pins should face in the same direction as the components 3) Drivers: Mount the heatsink (on the other side, where no components are!) 4) Plug the drivers in (direction: CFG1-3 on the drivers to the jumpers on the mainboard) 5) Set the current with the little screw on the drivers (start at around 0.8A and increase if necessary), see below if you don't know how that works. 6) Create a new firmware at http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ 6.1) Select your machine 6.2) Toggle "invert axis" everywhere you install the new drivers. 6.3) If you install one for the z-axis: Double the steps/mm for the z-axis 6.4) Upload the new firmware via CURA --- NOT SO QUICK GUIDE HARDWARE SET THE STEPMODE We first have to set the step mode. There are two, spreadCycle and stealthChop. We want to run the steppers in the spreadCycle mode and not at stealthChop (which is extremly silent but way to weak for 3D printers...). That configuration is set by the CONFIG-PINS (CFGx) like the following: CFG1 to GND CFG2 to Open (Open means "not connected to anything" - neither low (GND) or high (VCC)). There are in general two ways to reach that configuration, by the jumpers on the drivers and the mainboard-jumpers: Let's start with CFG1 When you take a look at the mainboard-layout you will see a pull-down resistor at MS1 (and MS1 on the Mainboard is connected to CFG1 on the new drivers). If you remove the first Jumper on the Mainboard (MS1), the CFG1 is set to GND and we reached our first goal. Next is CFG2 One way to set CFG2 to Open is to desolder the little jumper on the driver-board. But that's a little inconvenient... The other way is to simply remove the second jumper (MS2) on the mainboard (thanks for the hint @Tsp42). CFG2 is then set to Open because there is NO pull-up/pull-down resistor. Whats about CFG3? The CFG3 Jumper on the driver is by default not installed - it is therefore set to 'open' and this is what we want - nothing to do here. Nice to know: If CFG3 is set to open it means that the current is set through the sense-resistor (the little device that looks like a potentiometer). Btw... some instructions tell you to do the following: Don't do that! It is simply not necessary and may, at worst, harm your mainboard. Also don't remove any pins,... It's really ugly and it is not necessary! If you run a RUMBA-board, follow these instructions. SOLDERING THE PIN-HEADER Solder the pin header to the PCB, please ensure that they are facing toward the side where the IC's are! I recommend to glue (just a little drop) the pinheader to the driver at first, to make sure it is rectangular while soldering. Another way is to use a breadboard (if you have one). MOUNT THE HEATSINK Use some thermal tape or anything else that is electrical but absolutely not! thermal insulating and glue the heatsink on the little thermal pads on the back of the drivers. Be sure that you don't short anything! INSTALL THE DRIVER Install the drivers to the mainboard. It's easy to determine the orientation: MS1-3 at the mainboard to CFG1-3 at the driver board (see picture by wombl1). SET THE CURRENT Measure the reference voltage (VREF) between the VREF-pin and GND (there is also a GND pad at the green LED's on the mainboard) using a volt-/multimeter. Set it by the use of the potentiometer to the current you want. Use this formula to calculate the desired VREF: I = (VREF * 1.77A) / 2.5V - or - VREF = (I * 2.5V) / 1.77A example: If you use the original steppers (1.15A max) the calculation should go: VREF = (1.15A * 2.5V) / 1.77A = 1.63V Anyway, start lower (at around 0.8V) and increase only if necessary, higher current lead in general to more noise and - as some users reported - a too high voltage causes overheating. Be cautious to not hot-wire anything when measuring the voltage (you have to turn the UM on to measure the voltage ;D). Thus I recommend to turn the UM off again before you adjust the sense resistor (the little thing that looks like a potentiometer). SOFTWARE INVERT THE AXIS The SSS and A4988 let the steppers rotate in different directions by default. If the A4988 drives it clockwise the SSS does counterclockwise and vice versa. If you simply replace the drivers without telling the firmware that something changed, your feeder will push the filament you, not in - the platform will move upwards, not downwards and so on... In order to fix that, you can use marlins configuration option that is called "invert axis". You can do so by creating a new firmware on e.g. http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/. Choose a template and toogle "invert axis" (check if unchecked by default or uncheck if checked by default) everywhere you have installed the new drivers. Build the firmware and upload via CURA. This is the easy way, but instead of the marlinbuilder website I really recommend to learn how to compile marlin yourself - the version on the website is not up to date! Another approach to invert the direction of rotation (as e.g. @mariuszem prefers), is to twist the motorcables, personally I don't like it, but it is definitely okay if you do so. Take a needle and unplug the the little wire-ends from the connector, swap the first two and the last two wires (as pairs) and replug them. STEPS PER MM There is no need to adjust the steps per mm for the X any Y axis since the real microsteps didn't changed! The driver just interpolates to 256. But if you want to change the Z-axis too, you have to (for the z-axis only)! Just double the steps-per-mm at the firmware builder website (see above) and upload it via CURA (including the inverted axes!) or do so via the Ulticontroller: CONTROL -> MOTION -> Z-Steps/mm (double it, since it is now 16 microsteps instead of 8 - the SilentStepStick doesnt offer 8 ) This is why it is worth the effort: mine wombl1 makerSpatz and also: Have fun!

Is it maybe possible that the driver overheats that fast? It looks like the torque drops after around one minute nonstop extruding - very strange... will measure the temperature the next days. I cannot think of any other source for that problem. btw... it's the extruder motor!

Hi everyone! I tried to adjust the driver current to 1.7A maximum since i installed a new stepper. In order to do so, I measured the VREF and set it from 0.65V to 0.9V. This is my calculation: 1.7A / 0.7 = 2.43A (since the A4988 limits to around 70%) 2.43A / 2.5Ohm = 0.97V (according to https://www.pololu.com/product/1182) => 0.9V for safety reasons... The problem is, now the stepper seems to be more underpowered than before (way less torque!!) Any ideas? Thank you!

hey drayson, you mean the firmware changes? that's easy, if you install a new 400steps/rev motor: use your ulticontroller if you have one, go to CONTROL -> MOTION -> E-Steps/mm and set it to 302 (or higher/lower if that value doesnt work for you). otherwise go to http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ and edit the steps per unit, then upload it via CURA. if you have any questions, just ask. have phun

@neotko: the shaft is round, but the mk8 seems to be tight so far, even without a d-shaped shaft. @titus: i just increased the extrusion at the start gcode to 10mm, thats way enough at my case

Hallo zusammen! Ich habe mir einen neuen Steppermotor für meinen UMO gegönnt (für dieses Design), dieser verträgt bis zu 1,7A und das wollte ich ausnutzen um ein Schrittverlust bei zu hohen Geschwindigkeiten zu verhindern. Die originalen Stepper werden ja mit rund 1,2 A betrieben. Hier steht bereits beschrieben wie das einstellen funktioniert. Allerdings habe ich da noch ein paar Fragen dazu, vielleicht kann mir jemand von euch weiterhelfen. Auf der Grafik ist "underpowered"/"OK"/"too hot" zu lesen. 1) was ist mit "too hot gemeint" - der Stepper oder der Treiber? 2) Wäre alternativ ein anderer Treiber zu empfehlen? Wenn, welcher? edit: Ich denke über den DRV8825 oder TMC2100 nach 3) Wieviel kann der aktuelle Treiber denn maximal liefern (ich habe den blauen). edit: Laut dieser Information hier wohl 2A mit Kühlung Beste Grüße, Flo

@anon: thank you it's an UMO! Are you sure about it? According to http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide there is one, somewhere... "Starting from the 1.5.6 electronics, the electronics can be powered stand-alone. This may cause the fan and other electronics to run from your USB port. If you don't want this, you can 'open' the following jumper:" @avi: i also thought about that way, but i would prefer another solution

Hi! I read that there is a jumper in the PCB that, when open, disconnects the USB power. I want that the Ultimaker shuts down when the power switch is turned off, but I dont know which one of the jumpers it is. Thanks!

Hi! Can anyone tell me what stepper drivers are used at the UM2 and how much current they can suppply? Thank you

new version: v1.2.1 fixed sth. (with a workaround) that looks like a marlin-bug: the last sign of the M117 line was cutted off all the time...

New version is out, added a percentage indication