profepaco

Ok... I am lost. Each time we upgrade Cura must be load a new firmware to the printer?

2 hours 40 minutes 7 cm tall, 7 cm diameter with a wall of 3 mm. 15% infill. 90 mm/s. 3 mm bottom. do you still think is too slow?

yes, i agree. I suspected we have no solution.

Well, I do not know whether the subject in English is meaningful. What I want is to print a part that do not block heat transmission or conduction og heat. Electricity conduction is not required. Of course ABS or PLA are nor adequate. So, is there out there any product that I could use in my printer? Thanks in advance.

So... a comparison Left, last version of cura, 14.03, 7 hours...right previous version, 14.01, less than 3 hours. Circles on the bottom, right part, duo to playing with settings.

So... a comparison Left, last version of cura, 7 hours...right previous version, less than 3 hours. I imagine the amount of people thinking the their printer is faulty.... and the problem is Cura... Circles on the bottom, right part, duo to playing with settings.

I found previous version in my computer.... 2 hours and 43minutes printing time with previous version 7 hours with latest version... the same model, of course...and same settings... We need a solution!!! I going to print with old version... more tomorrow.

BTW, where can I download previous versions of CURA?

Yes, this is what I want. Are they sliced by the last version of Cura? I am designing the cylinders with another softs... but at the moment I have similar results.

just reporting strong problems to print with dutch organge colorfabb... it is very sensible to settings!!.... and i found a small area with very small diameter :shock:

I will have a look... because I reduced infill overlap to 1% and the result is the same.

I have increased wall thickness and the result is the same. BTW, the ugly wall is visible in the inside face as well. :-| :-|

It is set to 15%. However, wall thickness is 1.5 mm and shell thickness is 0.8mm. So the wall is solid and when printing I saw is solid.

I explained before in this thread why they cannot... there is a patent..

This is the cylender. It has a wall thickness os 1.6 mm. 200 faces, scad. As you can see top and bottom layers look good, top in the left side. The rest is horrible, really horrible. Print speed: 100 mm/s bottom speed: 50 mm/s

yes, I did one cylinder with 200 faces and when I print it it is not good. I will post a picture later.

After trying tinkercad and sketchup, if I design cylinder it is not well rounded and after printing it it looks horrible. You can see the faces of the polygons used to create the circle. Could you please recommend me a CAD software where I can select the number of polygons for a cylinder, or at least the default value is good enough to have a rounded one? Thanks in advance.

you are welcome to Spain... it will be a pleasure to help organizing the event

I am ready to print my first ABS models.So I am very interested in whatever comment in this thread. I have been reading a lot, and it seems that large ABS models like yours need a heated chamber, i.e., you should close the front open space of your UM2. It seems Ultimaker cannot offer in his models a front door because there is a patent about this. You can offer a front door if no heated bed is present. However, I have been considering to design a front door for my UM2. Using glass or metacrilate, with hinges to fasten the door. It not so difficult. It seems that if you close the front space (even with a box) your models has more chance to be finished without problems. This is not my experience it is what i have been reading whilst waiting for my UM2.

at ebay: http://www.ebay.es/itm/231085070846?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

bed too close to the noozle?

talking about filaflex... the feeder needs to apply quite less force to push the filament, if oiled. It really works. Filaflex is very sticky. Even you need some force to remove it form the spool. It sticks to itself. I do not see any strange behaviour when using oil. It is a vey light oil. However... who knows in the future.... What I am doing is that after I remove filaflex i pirnt soething with PLA to clean the noozle.

I have to oil filaflex to use it... you are scaring me... Nevertheless, the way to reduce wear is with a lubricant....

Takei, I am thinking that perhaps we should oil the filament, even PLA or ABS, to extend teflon life. Just at the beginning of the filament... and after some hours of printing... what do you think?

I undestand your comments... I try to undestan what my UM2 is able to do. I will try later your suggestions. I will give some feedback, specially thinking about new useres like me.