fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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It definitely looks like your short belt. I've got a video here on tightening them:
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It's an M3 screw, but I echo what ultijaran said. I don't recommend unscrewing the frame panels of your printer...ever. Short of having to replace one of them, everything you ever need to access can be accessed without removing them. Removing any of the frame panels will generally throw your XY axis out of alignment and it will need to be recalibrated. I would definitely go with a door that pops into place, or hangs on a hook over the top.
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It can vary by brand. I don't normally print with ABS (I don't like the smell). I've heard Ultimaker ABS should print well with a 80 C bed temperature, but most other brands usually recommend 90 to 100 C. I'd also consider putting a door on it.
You can either change the bed temperature for ABS always on your printer by going into your Material profiles and editing it there on the printer, or you can adjust it per print by going into the tune menu and setting the bed temperature manually when your printer is heating up. Make sure to exit back out of the tune menu or your print won't start.
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I've got an early UM2, totally unmodified that I still run. As long as you don't ask too much from the feeder, it still runs like a champ. I usually increase the temperature a little so the feeder doesn't have to work quite as hard.
I definitely think the upgrade kit is worth while, but as it is, the printer should work well. Make sure everything is clean and lubricated.
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I pretty much agree with the above posts. Nozzles and couplers are the main consumable. I'd say belts 3000-4000 print hours if you start to see XY issues and they seem to be degrading/you start to see XY wobble.
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There are quite a few filament manufacturers that make good 2.85mm filament--off the top of my head: Ultimaker, Faberdashery, ColorFabb, and Protopasta are some of my favorites.
I think gr5 has a 1.75mm conversion kit at the gr5 store.
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If it's only once, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If it's continually on the screen like that, I'd replace the screen.
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Are the lines on there like that all the time? Or only intermittently or only once?
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From the last picture on April 23, it looks like Support--Touching Bed Only was turned on instead of Support--Everywhere.
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If you've got the latest firmware on your UM3 there is an option when you pause it to change the material. It's not going to automatically detect for you when the material runs out, you'd have to judge it and change it before you ran out, but it's now in the menu as of 3.6.
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Glad I could help. :-)
The active leveling has 2 parts--it does do the leveling at the start of the print, which is useful, particularly if you're swapping between multiple pieces of glass, but it also corrects during the building. The first 10mm are corrections for the leveling/plate, and the second 10mm phase out those corrections so everything is totally level by the time the print is 20mm high.
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It sounds like it's your active leveling, which is a totally normal sound to hear on the UM3E, but definitely a bit unnerving if you're used to printing on a UM2. I keep meaning to make a video of noise for reference and comparison between the two machines.
The active leveling process makes tiny corrections as your printhead moves across the bed, for the first 20mm of printing height. This is caused by the Z-motor making lots of small movements.
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You could try very carefully to get the PLA off with a heat gun and tweezers. You want to be careful not to damage the cables or put too much pressure on the brass block and risk damaging the heat break. PLA gets soft at fairly cool temperatures, so you may be able to pull the plastic clear on the outside. I'm not so sure about whatever is inside the nozzle, but if you can get the outside clear, you may be able to push what's on the inside all the way through.
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Nice! I also chose the Enterprise as my first U3e print! (great minds think alike) I specifically chose this model because it was one of the first prints I tried on my U2 a few years ago. Using PLA support back then was horrible!! Tried to print 2 or 3 times, but the support scarred up the surface beyond saving. Have been waiting patiently for dissolvable support ever since!
Here is the version I printed:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306104
The Enterprise was my first UM3 print too! With the UM2 I was always amazed at what the printer could accomplish as far as overhangs and articulated parts, without supports (I hated removing PLA supports). When the dissolvable supports came out I went out of my way looking for something that would have been a pain without them. The first few models I looked at had already been broken up into multiple pieces for easier printing. I ended up printing this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:261491
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I have similar problem. Did you find a solution to the problem?
What firmware are you running? Run the latest stable version.
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I'd also go ahead and change your brim to PVA, so your PVA is directly on the glass instead of directly on top of the PLA.
Choose Custom instead of Recommended. If you don't have the filter box visible, click the magnifying glass. Type "Build." You should see an option for Build Plate Adhesion. Change from Extruder 1 to Extruder 2 so you can do your brim in PVA. It will improve the adhesion of all the horizontal expansion PVA around the outside of your print.
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I don't have a fix for the priming blob of filament, but for your glass, I would contact your reseller.
Discoloration on the BB Core is completely normal; PVA does burn very easily, and a thin layer of it on the outside of the nozzle shouldn't cause any issues.
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Is your front fan running while it says preparing?
Is your silicone piece still in place?
Have you tried re-seating your printhead cable?
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The latest firmware update bricked the auto levelling and now i need to power cycle the machine every time I remove the usb drive. Printing over network also no longer appears to be working. I will reiterate that this machine is 2 months old and didn't even went through 2 rolls of filament.
Have you tried increasing the tension on your thumbscrews for the heated bed? Generally for active leveling errors, it's usually a result of the springs being a little too high and throwing off the leveling process.
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I thought the problem with printing with Polycarbonites was with the nozzles. It would chew up a brass nozzle.
Nope. You're thinking of Carbon Fiber, I think. PC totally fine with a brass nozzle. And the latest firmware gives you the option to select PC as a material choice.
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You may want to try turning down the temperature and checking your retraction settings if it seems like you're having a lot of oozing. Could you provide photos?
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Hi there,
Could you try uploading the pictures again? They don't seem to have come through on this thread. What settings are you using for the PVA Core? One of the default profiles (if so, which one?) or custom settings?
Are you using Ultimaker PVA or another brand?
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I'm not sure what you mean by configure the second head. Which process are you trying to run?
If you move the lifting switch by hand, can you move it backwards and forward? Can you move the lifting switch if you take the Core out?
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Also make sure there's no filament hanging off the end of the nozzle; it will throw off the height calculation.
If that and making sure the glass is clean don't do the trick, tighten your bed springs a little.
Extruder Feeder clicking noise
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Sounds like the normal retraction noise I think, though if you want to send a video I could listen to it. You could turn off retraction, but the quality of your prints will suffer.