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fbrc8-erin

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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin

  1. Hello Erin,

    Our Superstar from fbrc8 thanks for your support.

    Everyone I just have to say we couldn't have gotten this far without Erin and her fantastic team at fbrc8. Ultimaker really hit a home in choosing fbrc8 to be their US partner for service.

     

    Thanks, Baseline, we really try our best to make a smooth process for everybody. I love getting to see the incredible things you and others in the community are creating.

    • Like 2
  2. It sounds like your front fan may not be running; if strings of filament have gotten caught in the fan blades, the fan won't run. If it's not running, the print won't start, but it also won't be able to finish cooling down the print core after you try to abort it.

    Power of the printer and use tweezers to try to remove any visible strings of filament around the fan. When the fan is clear of debris strings it should run normally again.

  3. And it really doesn't matter, and this I am not so bizarrely indignant about...my UM3 is down hard because of a jammed filament that will not come out of the print core hence the print core will not come out of the assembly it sits in.

     

    Is the Print Core not heating anymore? Did the filament snap off somewhere between the Core and the top of the printhead block? Is there another thread with the Print Core issue?

  4. The best way to get the white knob front off is actually to push it from the back. There's a hole in the clear plastic cover; push your screwdriver into the hole and you can push the white knob front through from behind.

    5a332848b3f5e_knobhousing.thumb.jpg.b2d6fad41fc82e3362e710cb08ecd976.jpg

    I've tried slipping an exacto knife around the edges to pull the white knob front out once...broke the knife blade. That was not fun.

    So, the hair was interfering with the contacts between the SD card and the reader?

    5a332848b3f5e_knobhousing.thumb.jpg.b2d6fad41fc82e3362e710cb08ecd976.jpg

    • Like 2
  5. Nice flower, I have seen that design on Thingiverse many times and wished I could print it.  

     

    I've seen this print done with single extrusion printers, but I think removing the supports would be a pain. I'm kind of temped to go ahead and paint the bottom part green, but most of my attempts to paint my prints haven't gone well and I don't want to ruin this one.

  6. Today i come in office and turned on printer. At first second i heard сooler noise, after that no reaction, even no inscription on display "Ultimaker". Unfortunately i concluded to send printer back to seller,as I was advised bu  Fbrc8.

     

    Actually, my advice was to stop touching the electronics until you'd gotten in touch with your local reseller. :-)

  7. I contacted fbrc8 for support on this, and even though they are closed on the weekend, Erin (Co-Founder of fbrc8) helped me diagnose this. She was fairly sure this was the wifi card, and she was right!

    Erin sent me very detailed instructions on how to remove it, and after I did, the UM3 started right up!

    They are processing a return for my wifi card, but I'm happily printing using the wired LAN connection.

    So I've learned a couple of things:  

    1. If your UM3 spins the fans up for a couple of seconds and then the printer acts dead, you probably have a defective wifi card that is drawing too much power. And

    2. fbrc8 (and Erin in particular) is awesome!

     

    Thanks, jhirschman. We'll get that wifi board out today. One thing to keep in mind when you get the new one installed--you'll still see the fans power on for half a second, and the printer will appear dead (for about 20 seconds), and then everything will start up as normal. The full power on process takes approximately 1 minute. I'm very glad we were able to get you back to printing this weekend though. :-)

    • Like 1
  8. Is your bowden tube seated all the way into your PTFE coupler?

    Bowden_Seating.thumb.png.87d5ed70bac27eacb28c13da77a80261.png

    Is your bowden tube the right way around? I've seen filament get stuck if the feeder end is in the printhead. This photo is the end that should be in your feeder.

    IMG_5230.thumb.JPG.e31f943f309ea098d59a2194df2f8136.JPG

    How many print hours are on the printer? It may be time to change out the coupler. I've got pictures of a new coupler and deformed couplers side by side.

    IMG_3742.thumb.jpg.1c2aeb4b1171b3b06ab3018c1e7fdd30.jpg

    Bowden_Seating.thumb.png.87d5ed70bac27eacb28c13da77a80261.png

    IMG_5230.thumb.JPG.e31f943f309ea098d59a2194df2f8136.JPG

    IMG_3742.thumb.jpg.1c2aeb4b1171b3b06ab3018c1e7fdd30.jpg

  9. If you took at least 9 points of sample in a grid then you could probably extrapolate accurately enough for most needs. Too many points and the calibration process becomes exceedingly slow. Better yet provide a bed that is flatter by design. I have read that others found flatter glass and that it makes a big difference.

     

    Have you tried flipping your glass over and checking to see if the problem changes? If you get the opposite high/low points with the glass flipped, then it's a glass issue, and you should be able to get a piece of replacement glass under warranty.

  10. Same problems here (UM3 Extended, just arrived): the printer sees the FIRST filament as PVA (if I load the Ultimaker PVA as #2 and Ultimaker Silver gray as #1) and says that the head#1 (AA) cannot load a (BB) material...

    Any ideas?

    Have I to take apart the spool holder, too?

    Thanks

    g

     

    Is there any chance the spools might be backwards on the reel holder? Can you provide a photo?

  11. Are you using Cura 2.3.x or the Beta 2.4?

    I'm finding the Beta 2.4 prints really nicely without a prime tower (by default). Beta 2.4 does some new things with controlling the temperature to reduce oozing and the need for a priming tower. Here's my latest-- sliced in Beta Cura 2.4, design by XYZWorkshop.

    IMG_8602.thumb.JPG.fa70b6a2c09d57601ebf127d600c24c8.JPG

    Not quite all the PVA is off in the photo.

    Could you include some pictures of what's going on with your printer?

    IMG_8602.thumb.JPG.fa70b6a2c09d57601ebf127d600c24c8.JPG

    • Like 2
  12.  

    There is actually one, the early blocks had the heater cartridge on the side towards to the fan shroud so it had very little spacing between the block and shroud, the later ones that also were included in the 2+ are mirrored so the heater cartridge does sit further from the fan shroud.

     

    Not sure what you mean by that since there is fan shroud from both sides. But I see that some pictures has the heater cartridge to the left and some to the right. Guess is doesn't make too much difference.

     

    It is Meduza with Z ;)Please report how it works for you :-)

     

    Sorry.

     

    There have been a couple of versions of the UM2 fan shroud over the course of the UM2/UM2X/UM2Go. At one point there was fan shroud flap on the back of the fan shroud (making it easy to see the heater and temp sensor). At another point, a flap was added to the back.

    The UM2+ fan shroud does not have a flap at the back.

    If the rear flap is present, and in the way, you can bend it out a little, or snip it off.

    • Like 1
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