Jump to content

tmrevlje

Dormant
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by tmrevlje

  1. Talk about failed attempts, too much stringiness. I know this isn't something new, but I wanted to share my first Coral attemp with you all and I figured there's one too many Coral threads out there already to be openning a new one. Trying a different support system and orientation now, so I'll be back with some new images in about an hour
  2. It started off nicely, but then stringing began and once that started happening, the nozzle was moving some layers around and started to drag them (smear them like a brush) and as a result, the next layers weren't where they were supposed to be, so yea I aborted the print, read on stringing and pushed the travel speed to 250 so it "cuts off" the strins before they happen - let's see what that does. Oh and I just noticed, so setting the retraction speed and length in Cura isn't helpful, since in UM2 that is done in the Tune settings of the printer... so making changes in Cura won't do anything for those two settings?
  3. Hey Jonny, thanks for the lengthy post and suggestion. So let's see what happens, will post photos in about an hour of what happened with these settings Cheers!
  4. Hi and hello I was given a chance to research and learn the theoritcs behind the 3D printing process and after months of quietly reading up (also on this forum), I decided to suggest Ultimaker 2 to our project manager. I am currently on a 1 month project at UMC Rostock (Cardiology Department), where I am testing, printing, figuring out (with great support from users on this forum), how to print all sorts of things, mostly related to the world of medicine of course, specifically Cardiology My background is graphic design, through which I also always was and am interested in anything 3D related, from modeling, to animation, to finally printing. Using Cinema 4D and RealFlow mostly, trying to learn SolidWorks now and of course lately discovering a whole new world of slicer software etc. Sadly I do not yet own a 3D printer of my own, but since I fell in love with the whole process, the smell, the sounds, the community, I will definitely save up and buy me a UM2 and some wicked fillaments in the near future. Love the community here and the quick responses I get with whatever noob question I ask, so THANK YOU again. All too soon this project will end and it will be like parting with an new cool friend I will get back to it soon though. Well enough of me rambling, let's get crackin' Thanks and see you all around o>
  5. Going for the following settings with the vertical attempt next, following your suggestions. Would you be kind enough Phillip, to check the screenshots of the settings and either slap me in the face and say you're a newb, or correct/suggest any changes that you might think would help the process. I'm using Colorfabb's PLA material (Traffic Red) currently. What bed temp, nozzle temp, travel speed etc should I use? Leave it at default or Tune it before print?
  6. Thanks Duesentrieb it's one hell of a good start, your information. Currently I'm printing it in horizontal as with the first vertical try, it tipped the model over :( and started dragging it (the nozzle) all over the place. The brim around the print was so small, I usually see larger brim around it. So what you said about smearing the printed material is exactly what happened to me with the vertical alignment, should I lift the nozzle a bit more? Not sure. Horizontal is going quite ok now, but I do see some "stringing" or not very well fused layers. But at 0.1 layer resolution that's what's to be expected I guess. Check the last to pictures in the album, to see what I mean.
  7. Awesome Kris, thanks! Will give it a spin soon :rolleyes:
  8. I am attempting to print this stent-like model. At the moment I'm going for a shorter version so I don't lose too much time while in the "figuring out different settings" stage. How would you guys approach a print of this type of model, it seems so brittle. I've tried printing it vertically, but the initial few layers apparently didn't stick well to the surface, only so few spots where it touches the ground. So I decided to go horizontal. If anyone has an experiences so far with this type of 3D printing, it would be super-cool if you gave me some tips, regarding the temps, speed, flow etc. whatever would make my life easier with this particular print Thanks!
  9. Yea ABS that's what I kinda knew - the fact that it really needs a more "controled enviroment", but I'm interested in PLA if there's also a difference. Thanks for the link and please keep us updated on your progress and results.
  10. Oops, don't want to put you in this type of position Markus, will be more careful in the future or ask in a different way or different topic Thanks anon, will have a look at those videos. So it can be used for 3D printing, you make a model add support and export as STL and it should carry all the necessary information. Cool
  11. Oh wow cool work Kris! Please keep updating whether there's a difference in print quality before and after.
  12. @ mnis, thanks for explaining stuff so clearly. I remember someone mentioning Meshmixer for support creation? I could be way off, but this stuck in my mind. The attempt doesn't look bad at all, what settings did you use if you don't mind sharing? Thanks!
  13. Thanks for the info dirk, much appreciated. @ Wallan, haha cool stuff m8, good work.
  14. Hey dirk, nice print m8. Mind sharing the settings you used and how long it took? Thanks
  15. Awesome link, we would need more of this type of information. Does any one know of some videos of the process, for example sanding. How would you go about sanding an intricate object, that has small edges or those hard to reach spots. Would you use some sort of a tool or do it by hand?
  16. Silly question and definitely a level 10 thing for me at the moment, since it's only my 2nd day of 3D printing, but how do you guys "define" what type of support the printer makes for the model. I mean seeing different versions in this thread I see there's different support types used. How or where do you define that? Thanks! Hope to see more of your results on this object, it's super sexy 3D model though, would love to be able to suprise my lady with a proper job on this bracelet.
  17. Ok so the Pikachu, went quite well I think, the ending on the tip of the ears was a bit off, but nothing major. I think I just found some solid settings for printing objects of similar size and shape. Thanks for the tips guys, skimmed a hell of a lot of hours of figuring things out on my own, but then again that's why we have this great forum for isn't anyway greatly appreciated and am super excited about future prints and problems
  18. Hi, well I used Cinema 4D for a few years, dabling with 3D modeling. Just got a chance to work on an UM2 now, so no models were created yet for the purposes of 3D printing. But I am planning on doing some models in C42 for 3D printing as well in the future.
  19. Sander! Thanks! Yes I am slowly getting there, thanks to the amazing and quick reposponses from you guys. I went to print another UM Robot and it seems to not have the same issue as the Pikachu model from Thingiverse, but I did relevel the bed in between so if the UM Robot works now and has no issues I will attempt the Pikachu later with the same settings.. Don't ask, my brother wants the Pikachu
  20. Damn it, when I get everything else right, the material is feeding out nicely, then my objects after 5 minutes of printing (with a brim around it), starts moving around with the nozzle. Is this a bed leveling problem, because I did put glue on the bed but not enough? It's weird though when I removed what was printed and touched the glue surface it's really not gluey, there is no resistance on the surface, so I am guessing the glue dried off instantly? I'm baffled, and tips? You mentioned earlier that I hardly need glue on the bed, if I brim?
  21. Ok so, I have tried tightening the hex screw by the feeder as stated in Robert's cool guide, should the white indicator be lowered by screwing the hex screw? In my situation no matter in which direction I screw the hex screw the white indicator remains in the upper most position (low tension). Is that normal? Thanks
  22. Checked it, the feeder is moving, the filament however is not, I will try to tighten the screw to put the white indicators to the middle. As I have read in Robert's great list of tips, my printer is after the mid-March date production and the white indicators are still set into the upper most position. The feeder is not pushing the filament as it should.
×
×
  • Create New...