Blizz
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Posts posted by Blizz
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Nice
Dacht even dat je mijn foto gebruikt had voor die fan shroud 
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If you resolve it, let us know too will you?
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For a recent woodfill print that burned at the end with the slowing down to respect the layer height I've asked for their opinion on how to improve:
As always, the reply was excellent. Even though It doesn't completely apply to this situation, I did want to share their answer with you all. It might be of help:
Greetings Steve,Thank you for contacting Simplify3D support. That looks like a very interesting model, I'd be happy to recommend some settings changes to accommodate your requests. There are two settings in particular, that actually can work hand-in-hand to help with your print. The first is one you mentioned, with the Speed Overrides under the Cooling tab. The default setting is for layers under 15 seconds long, allow for speed reductions down to 20%. Due to the fact that burning is a large issue with the wood filament, I would recommend using the settings for 10 seconds and 60% slow down.
The other setting is "Print Islands sequentially without optimization". This setting is found in the Layer tab, and when checked will actually increase the layer-time by taking a less-efficient paths between islands as shown in the picture below. This means that the toolhead will naturally have a longer layer time and will not have to slow down for the Speed Overrides nearly as often.
If the combination of these two settings don't remedy your problem, we could also look into using multiple processes for this model, and disable the speed overrides, that way each portion of the model will have a designated speed that's exactly at what you set, but I would recommend trying the two above settings first. I hope this helps, thank you for contacting Simplify3D support, we're happy to help and especially with a print as awesome as this one!
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*looks at the blender app on his other monitor*
It sure can
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Very good question that I don't know the answer to either... I've replied as well, but they haven't sent me an order yet. Just wanted to pitch in here as a reminder to myself I need to follow this up
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@Didier yeah indeed. Especially for that woodfill, which burns so quickly, I think that is the only way. Luckily my modelling skills are adequate enough to make one of those
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Leon: De gcode die uit cura komt is de geslicede data die je nodig hebt. Dus het idee is dat je gewoon eerst zonder plugins in cura je model klaarmaakt met instellingen voor het bovenste gedeelte, hiervan een "save" doet.
Dan pas je de instellingen aan naar die voor het onderste gedeelte, voegt de swap plugin toe en wijst daarin naar de versie die je daarvoor bewaard hebt.
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@didier indeed and its not something you can easily fix... The layer has to cool down.
Minimum layer time by slowing down => burnt filament
Minimum layer time by "waiting" (if that is even possible) => filament in the nozzle would burn, you'd have to purge it somewhere while waiting
Perhaps printing some kind of column next to your piece at the same time so that it "gets out of there" every layer for a couple seconds?
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I just do it like this:
I'm lazy
Yes, those are in fact pliers
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Yeah I won't be using the laywoo-d3 again anytime soon. Definitely not before I have something with a bigger nozzle.
I printed this at 0.25mm, 50mm/sec, 205ºC, 110% flow - according to the advice of the colorfabb dudes - and it printed beautifully. Except for the last cm
As I mentioned in another topic already the intention is to keep the filament in the nozzle as short as possible as it burns really quick, hence the high total throughput. -
My first "successful" (as in finished) print with woodfill:
Unfortunately I noticed too late that it had considerably slowed down at the end - to respect the minimum layer time - and thus burned the filament. I was too late to correct it.
I have a spool of laywoo-d3 as well around here but I have never managed to print more than half an hour or so before it clogs. The woodfill prints a lot smoother. I assume that the laywoo-d3 is similar to the coarse woodfil, which colorfabb indicates requires a bigger nozzle.
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Isn't this some kind of "overlap" coming into play? as in 1.6 is not exactly 4 passes because it needs to overlap a bit for good adhesion. The setting is definitely there for infill vs wall, perhaps this is something for "wall vs wall" as well?
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Ja die S3D kost wel wat helaas. Hun support is wel heel goed en de functionaliteit van het programma is ook ongelooflijk, maar ik denk dat het voor de meeste hobby-printers helemaal de moeite niet is.
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Not only that: Don't link to the notification itself, link to the comment. It is *extremely* annoying and userunfriendly that you have to log in to see a stupid comment.
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Heb het ook al paar keer voorgehad ja, helaas geen idee hoe het kwam / op te lossen. Maar je bent niet alleen dus.
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That is how it is supposed to be, mine is like that as well.
I do get the impression (but it might be due to the picture) that yours is not entirely parallel to the metal part.
If the path somehow has too much resistance because of that it could also explain the underextrusion...
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Didier then you are probably using a different one than I am.
My nozzle still sticks out approximately 5mm from under the guard. I really like the fact that the entire plate the nozzle is mounted against is open with the guard, it makes cleaning easier.
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Does that work for you?
No, unfortunately not.
And also, is there a way to post pictures directly to the forum so that I don't have to drop them on my own webserver?
You can use the forum gallery. Just click on your username at the top and then pick "My gallery" (right bottom).You can add pictures there and then use the My Media button to paste them into your posts.
It's a bit cumbersome, but it is how it is
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aroth: I think you are posting your pictures private, 'cause all I can see here are "image not found" boxes.
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You should organise some kind of volunteer weekend to get everything sorted and fitted
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pm_dude: Yes indeed, my text has a link to the model if you want to check it out. I used the previous one even with the bad fit and I had the impression it helped. Now my printer is pretty again, no more crooked parts
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Awesome!
If you need me to print more, I don't mind. I can bring them in 5 weeks (something like that right?) to the next Ulti-Evening
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Okay thanks Nico, now I feel brave enough to raise the level a bit again (no offense
). My latest print was https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2:
Venkel was so awesome to post a revised version that actually has a hole for the long head screws. I printed it and am really happy about it.
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blob? Mijn grote probleem was dat ik na veel retractions een lege nozzle had en dat lag aan die "Extra Restart Distance", die moet op 0 staan ipv -0.17 of zo. Heb je een foto?
Side note:
Ik heb veel rommel gehad met S3D initieel en het een tijd opzij gelegd omdat ik niet genoeg kende. Ben nu sinds een week af en toe terug bezig met S3D, paar prints so far en die zijn allemaal heel goed gelukt. Ik heb eindelijk het gevoel dat ik een beetje vat op het progsel begin te krijgen.
Dacht even dat je mijn foto gebruikt had voor die fan shroud 
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
Solid Print 3D: perhaps a new fan shroud for better airflow and the leveling nut covers for easier leveling?
Ultibrain: excellent transparency! Looks awesome.