Blizz
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Blizz
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Niet helemaal on topic, maar in Simplify3D kan ik gewoon meerdere profielen aanmaken die activeren vanaf een bepaalde hoogte (in mm). Dus daarin kan het wel blijkbaar.
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Sander well except for the big brand name there was little difference between your stand and the others. They basically all had UM2s and printed stuff. My wife and I said to each other that you have to look at the posters because the material is alike almost everywhere
As I said: I don't have a clue how you would distinguish yourself being a printer fabricator instead of for example a "shapeways clone" (if i can be so disrespectful), but it didn't really stand out to me. Perhaps it's just me having unrealistic expectations, dunno. I guess I came there expecting to be bedazzled by my favorite brand
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I experienced the same issues and talked to the colorfabb guys in London. Turns out that the idea I had (printing slower) is actually what made it clog. The best way is to make sure that the material spends as little time in the nozzle as possible, as it burns really quickly. They advised 50mm/s and a higher flowrate (110 - 120%). Also they pointed at their http://learn.colorfabb.com/category/tutorials/3d-printing/, where you can find an article http://learn.colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-woodfill/.
Very eager to try again
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I loved seeing that new 3d printer with paper as a source material. It's obviously way too expensive to buy (£34.000 iirc) but after seeing their promo video online I really wanted to see it in action and handle one of their prints. Which I did, and it was deemed awesome
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*droops away*
See you all again in a couple years, when I'm done practicing.
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Unfortunately have to agree with the opinions about the stand.
Also, for some reason I didn't really get the "we are a printer fabricator vibe" from it either, it just looked like the others.
A bunch of UM2s and a lot of plastic. I personally don't have any suggestions on how to improve it, just wanted to share my thoughts. What was/is really cool is that your printers were used literally everywhere
I also took a whole bunch of pictures and will post them at some point. Except from the makerbot stand. For some reason my camera refused to work around there
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Ligt bij mij gewoon in de kast met de zakjes silica die erbij zaten er gewoon naast. Is niet zo gek vochtig bij ons dus meer ga ik er persoonlijk niet voor doen. Denk dat het wat afhangt van de relatieve vochtigheid in je huis of zoiets nut heeft of niet.
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So we're there, anyone else already arrived?
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You guys can say what you want, currently I'm looking forward to the 9th. Not a real fanboi but I do like looking at the Apple press events
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je hebt nu wel een andere kleur gebruikt. Ben je zeker dat je wit filament niet gewoon wat te breed is en slecht door die bowden gaat? Is het een goedkopere variant mss? Best even nameten
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Mine's here: http://www.3dhubs.com/antwerp/hubs/blizz
Might not be a bad idea to add somewhat more pictures but at this point I'm not really interested in orders from there to be honest. I'm still printing so much stuff for myself...
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@pm_dude the ones where I worked weren't either, but usually you work in that sector because you are really driven and love it. The overtime is not considered as that, just as long days. It was for me in any case. It wase never enforced
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Ik heb daar zo'n crème brûlée brander voor. Heb al gezocht naar zo'n heatgun met een kleine nozzle maar alles wat ik hier in de buurt kan vinden zijn die voor verf af te branden. Zou nochtans een stuk beter zijn want daarmee heb je veel meer controle over de temperatuur. Zoals Xeno net zei ben je snel schade aan het veroorzaken, vandaar ook mijn tip om zeker eerst op wat anders te oefenen.
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pm_dude: I have worked in "the sector" for over 6 years myself and I think the camaraderie there is completely different because you tend to spend a lot more time together. Plus most of the times the entire company is working on the same big project with the same goal, in most companies there are a lot of different departments/projects and whatnot. It all depends ons what the company does I think.
In any case, I've had my belly full of the long hours and low pay and migrated to things more profitable and wife-friendly
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Oh, and the STLs are available on YM.... pom pom pom. Think I found my new project (after I get that baby mobile finished for my godchild)
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Ik heb in een post-processing guide gelezen dat opwarmen met een heatgun tot het lichtjes smelt de kleur zou terugbrengen. Zie hier, onder "Sanding". Misschien best eerst wat oefenen op iets minder belangrijk
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Nice leveling screw covers. Is there a direction drawn on it? I always get confused when its time to play with them
No unfortunately not, I'm also wrong at first every time
I was toying with the idea of printing the directions on a paper (i know, the audacity!) and sticking it to the bottom of the case. The bed is up when leveling anyway.
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Wanted to print this for a while...
It came out pretty nice. But then again, Roberts' models are always awesome
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Glad the 3dhubs thing is so popular there... Been signed up for 3 months by now, haven't had a single order
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That question was asked on the ulti-evening and the colorfabb dude confirmed that it won't conduct because the ratio of bronze is much lower than the "pla glue"keeping it together.
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Die verdikking na ongeveer een cm is geen goeie zaak volgens mij. Filament heeft blijkbaar de mogelijkheid om naar opzij te lopen terwijl dit niet zou mogen kunnen. Ben je zeker dat je teflon stuk goed aansluit op de nozzle?
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There are other threads already active about your issues:
1. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6753-startgcode-for-um2-and-cura-1407/ and http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6885-kisslicer-1407/.
2. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6450-simplify3d/.
It's a bit of a read but it should help you out.
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Since some of their employees already replied here I sincerely doubt that you'll get different information there
I'll be sure to bother them somewhat myself when I pass their boot.
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De bedoeling van die "atomic pull" is dat je het filament eerst opwarmt tot een temperatuur dat al het filament in de nozzle zeker smelt en dan laat afkoelen tot het punt dat het net harder wordt (PLA 90º, ABS 130º).
Als je het er op de juiste moment uittrekt zul je zien dat het rekt tot een dunnere sliert en dat alle rommel er blijft in plakken. Er wordt ook meestal aangeraden om dat met wit filament te doen (en een paar keer achter elkaar bij zeer vuile nozzle's) omdat je op wit heel goed ziet of er nog gunk meekomt.
En wat die filament klemmen betreft, daar kun je er nooit genoeg van hebben
Hint: Ze printen beter als je ze roteert zoals in mijn foto, by default liggen ze rechtop en dan heb je veel overhang.
Laaghoogte automatisch laten veranderen op een bepaalde hoogte
in Nederlands
Posted
Even ter illustratie:
Ik ben er wel niet 100% zeker van, maar mij lijkt het alsof ik zowel per model als per hoogte andere processing settings kan definiëren.