bob-hepple

Guys I have just purchased S3D I had not found this section of the Forums and was Glad in a Way it gets such a good review. I had purchased it for one simple reason Supports and the in ability of Cura to put them where i want them ect. I have read this section and I like Nicolinux above want to mimic my UM2 behaviour through Cura I read the link above http://umforum.ultim...-and-cura-1407/ do I copy and past this into my G Code file at the beginning ?? also cura speed is operated at mm/s and S3D is mm/m when I usually print it's at around 30mm/s I multiplied this by 60 to give me 1800 in S3D I take it I'm correct in that.. I have played with S3D a couple of days but not printed anything yet my print is quoting 10.5 hrs so I want to get it strait in my mind it will work.. retraction seems a problem?? is that the case??? any help appreciated setting up the G code.. Bob

Gr 5 Thank you for taking the time to put your response… you have given me something to think about hear sinking the part so it doesn't take 4 hrs to find out its naff appeals to me big style. Don't think Im wanting the internals immaculate I just want them accurate when I printed this out using supports see below this is what it turned out like and in this orientation the internals were really bad no use - the screw supports were malformed ect ect, and the internal surface was again Blistering Back to the Subject The Blistering as I call it stumped me the wall thickness hear is 2mm. and shell thickness was set to .8 the fans are on already the bed was set to 60 and print was done at 180 I will play with mesh mixer and try that. as a last attempt I installed simplify 3d to see what it made of the model. I have NOT run the file I am nervous about the style of G code my UM2 is set to Unicode and when I looked at the G code from Simplify 3d its different and also my Um2 machine says "This File will Override Machine Settings from the Slicer" I tried this because Cura was being a little bit of a pain with supports and a Brim everywhere including some little slots which are behind the tube the brim does not need to be in there.. Thank you for your advise. Bob

Hi I am in Durham I am looking for £1,450.00 The machine is about 2-3 Months Old it has had little use 30hrs it comes with Colour Fab Pla White Black Fluorescent still in sealed boxes unused 1Half Reel of Gold PLA as was included in original sale 1 Flexi PLA White 1 ABS Blue very little used so practically full reel Original Box Original Power Block original USB Cable latest Firmware Installed Bob

Gr5 My Apologies I do not think before I ramble On I'll Try agai Sorry !!!!!!!! ok above the second picture shows how I printed this. I have to print it like this because any supports I put inn cause more work than practical to clean up. When I have printed this with no supports there are TWO Problem areas Stringing I'll cal it and Blistering. Now Blistering is really a good description because the under side of the print is perfect. hear two pictures that show what I mean this shows the same as the first picture above but with markers on this second picture side view I shows the stringing Im talking about I hope this works for you and again my apologies for really confusing you, the tube hole will NOT be there for long it is there while I finalise the design. Bob

I have finally managed to get a picture up that shows some of the problems forget the hole where the tube is thats going it is the surface damage where the angled nose meets the horizontal flat part behind the tube this is my problem swell as the strange surface finish on the nose. this was printed at 180 and a speed of 20 no supports your views how to stop the layer damage

Thanks for the reply Im pleased its not just me

Hi I have been trying to upload some pics to my Gallery for 24hrs now and tried about 12 times 2.20mb JPG file but I get server reports a problem when it uploaded..

Thanks for the reply I'm pleased your UM2 is working so well I have noted you are in sweden I will not post over the water Sorry UK ONLY

Yellowshark those pillows are mounting post for another component, they are attached to the side walls with a 2mm fillet that supports the column 3/4 along it length they are quiet solid. The picture you say is the way to go was done in mesh mixer, but I was not convinced Gr5 says they should be larger in dia which I would agree, it was a feasability study to see if it would help but i'm not convinced. I think it will still cause a lot of work especially in the front area where there is a door/hatch on a hing that requires a good finish for it to work. I have more pictures, I will upload when the server allows me (Forums Server reporting problems) I can send the stl file over I won't get the permission to send over the part files. The flap and hing all work, they are printed out separately and glued into position the mounting holes for the hing are blocks, they were originally put into the solid but the printer would not do a clean hole, so I thought it would be better to glue them into the housing which also worked.. will post later Thanks Bob

Thanks for the replies I've tried about 8 times over a 10 hr period to upload a picture of the printout so you can all sea the problem but server says theres a problem uploading. I have tried both up loaders the pic is only 2.2mb will try later Thanks

GR5 thanks for the tip tick above Durr sorry Nick yeah I thought it would have been an easy print but its not the supports are messing me up I can't publish a picture at moment as server is report in an error When server lets me put pics up will send them up Has anyone used Simplify3d thinking of trying it also with a Zinter 3d printer i f I sell my UM2 but really don't want to go that far I have put a lot of work into this model what you can't see is the door way Hatch mechanism it all works will try tomorrow to put pics up

Gr5 No internals are important for accuracy I have posted other questions but can't upload any pics at moment server reporting errors

Hi All I'm Struggling big style, I have had some conversations with GR5 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6780-how-to-improve-my-drawing-with-problems-with-supports/ I have tried with / Supports but Cura is being very restrictive with this, I'd like to put supports in only certain areas, I have tried Meshmixer but problems with that and a 12hr print. I'm now at then end of my road, I have tried printing without supports and it does a fair job but with problems there is a 10mm section that prints badly and it seems to have a distortion I have tried uploading pics but at moment the server is saying theres problems.. I will try again later the print was done at 180 using PLA and print speed was 25 full cooling, if i can't sort this Im selling up Im off to London 2014 3d Print Show where Ultimaker will be, I thought the dual extruder would help then I could of printed with full supports with PVA But can't wait indefinitely.. can anyone help point me in the right way???

I'm In Durham Looking at going to London Show

Sadly I want to sell my Machine it is only 2months old NO Damage to any parts little use 30 hrs approx I am in the UK So before i advertise on Ebay any takers. Original packaging 6 spools of printing material 3 Pla (white black gold Flurescent) 1 ABS Blue and one flexible Pla White Reason Im selling it won't print what I'm wanting it to print Not flexible in putting in supports. when I put supports in it messes the look of the part up.

Hi Newbie for what its worth I am a newbie too BUT I have have extensive knowledge of buying from Chinese companies and I would just not go there if the price is low then they have usually cut corners big style either with wiring and electrics or just shoddy machining. Don't Do It. As for the Ultimaker2 All I would say is that if it s engineering prototypes which I am trying todo then its a bit of between the Devil and Deep Blue Sea. I have a component which I cannot get printed either to be acceptable looking good or Mechanical correctness. I find this is not down to the machine accuracy but todo with Printing Supports and the Flexibility of adding these to the Model. What would be good when its available (if) is dual head so you could print with different Materials giving the ability to remove the supports in water. Sadly I think this is where I need to be. Cura I find is not good for supports and I have tried Meshmixer but thats not great either.

Ok im a bit stumped I don't think I can get the best out of my Um2 printer with this file I don't really know how to draw supports in cad but thought of mesh maker I have read a few blogs on this so I downloaded it and tried something out on screen see below Cur has cut the printing time down from 4hrs to 3.30mins but not sure if this will work any thoughts... HELP !!!!!

forgot to put the surface finish picture to the above also when you look at the 3rd picture up from this you can see distortion on the internal surfaces. sorry if I'm getting you confused Help is appreciated Bob

Gr5 it was late when the print finished but hears a few results the picture above gave poor results internally as you can see its a bit messy this was printed at 180 pla with shell thickness .80 and speed at 30 .20 resolution the picture below shows another try which I thought might of worked but it also has quality problems again internally spot on but the surface finish was not good again print at 180 and a resolution 0f .15 sped at 30 on the left of the picture there is a hing and doorway that I printed out very small but its good this was going to be glued into place the load on this is not allot so would be quiet sufficient. I think i'm now ready to try and get a decent print before I change the design to incorporate internal channels ect I noted your thoughts on putting bend in at later date but these are to be printed in multiples so don't want to get into that and also the bend is very crucial. how would you go about putting supports in on the cad

Gr5 Thank you for taking the time to my questions, indeed you are bang on the first pic shows a good print, I printed this way so the internals were good to check my measurements there are components to be located into this, and you are correct the outside which is important for cosomatic reasons was not good at all. The second was an attempt to see if this gave me the best looking part which also failed, the face that was not supported dropped and also if you look carefully the is a flaw half way up the print that made this print mechanically un sound. This is a pro type of a part that will be thicker (big square in pi 1) at moment it is 2mm thick but will be 5mm and it will have a tube printed through the centre to conduct water. My thinking was print it in 2 pieces , 1, I didn't think it would print a tube very cleanly horizontally, and 2 it would cut down on print times instead of a 10 to 12 hr session (1) 6hr session a day??? I haven't had a good print out as yet I am trying another orientation as we speak based on pic 1, but with no supports. I do think that printing it all out as in pic2 seems feasable but also I don't exactly know how to draw my own supports, I am not adversed to trying though. I will post a couple of pics of the next printout if you could give me your opinion I'd appreciate it. Bob

Hello I have put questions on before about this project and how to achieve what I'm after I came up with the decision to split the item into two the fist pic shows the entire item orientated a different way but you get the picture (no Pun) the second shows how I have just printed it (4hr) print at 180 with speed set at 30.0 and a resolution of .20 the support in the second pic shows it is some way from the top contour about 1.mm if I am going to do this in two then the face above the gap has to be bang on strait so I can glue the two faces together can anyone tell me where I've gone wrong.

Thanks for this I think the fact it's not on a real is a real downer for me going to try colourfab thanks for this

Mmmm thanks for that I'll go to colourfab instead

I'm about to buy pla what problems did you have with um which is where I was going to buy my pla

I am wanting to change the colour of pla in my machine and was thinking of UM pearl white and black Metallic I have been told that some colours are better than others has anyone Experiance with these two. I wanted to stick to UM own brand unless others can tell me otherwise I'm in the UK so UM web sight seemed to be the best option.