bob-hepple

Thanks for the reply, I know the video is lacking a bit in quality it was the best I could do, comes out better on your phone where you can see it bubble up and ooze as I turn the advance wheel (to move material). I'm just gutted after all the work strip, build, strip, build I thought I was getting their, I have ordered a new one from 3dSolex along with 2 new nozzles and a Pt100. I will see if I can get a better video done tomorrow.

hope this works all comments please welcome.

another pic showing it a bit better video coming when worked out how to

Ok Chaps Cleaned it all up and the same thing is happening throughout the philips screw hear is a picture this time I have taken a video on iPhone how can I up load it the video, it clearly shows oozing from the screw unless I am blind and can't see something glaringly obvious I would like to share it with you. The Block was cleaned I am using the original spring with 3dsolex PTFE and Steel coupler along with the i2K

Hi Gr5 and Ultiarjan I have left the pt100 alone it is stuck and I don't really need to remove it as I am cleaning up the block the biggest problem I had was making sure the temp probe stays put I replaced the Philips screw and tightened it heated up the block to 200 it became loose tightened new screw until you couldn't move it. I am using the i2k from 3dsolex, when I used the Korneels space I machines it down to a snug fit between the alloy plates I think this is where I'm wrong, and after my recent experience I tried backing off the the steel coupler but this goes way up and to much thread is showing so I think I need to remake it, so for now I have put the original spring back on which is way tighter than before (i2k) I have done this because time is of the essence I have work for the printer todo. Will post a picture later. Gr5 yes I get exactly what you say about the temp probes I always thought that 175 was way below what others were using and when I tried the norm 200 it just was a mess Thanks all will post picture later

Ultiarjan Thank you I am going to clean this up and rebuild will leave the pt100 in place thanks for the reply.

Ok Thanks for that But before I go and rebuild everything just wanted to check that this is normal for the Olson block I cleaned some of it up and still can't get temp Probe out but this is what I found under the Star First the Heater side [media=6490][/media] Then The Temp Probe side [media=6491][/media] just checking this is normal all comments appreciated. And Valued..

Hi All thank you for your comments BUT The leakage was not from the nozzle entry point, I originally thought that as in the 1st picture. I blamed myself so I cleaned it the first nozzle was a complete mess. the picture below the gummed up picture show the nozzle unit cleaned but with 200mm of material moved and I watched the PLA steeping from beneath the screw head more than that picture shows. This is when I knew I had a serious problem. I am now told it was The Spacer as "Ultiarjan" said and I did not wind the steel coupler back to put it under pressure , So I presume it is still my fault, I do not know which is correct, I am Not 3dGuru or Boffin I learn by my mistakes so will take this as my Fault. BUT i don't understand why that should make a difference to where it is ultimately Oozing from. I do know the heater was covered in PLA and I do know the pt100 is stuck solid with PLA the 3mm Philips screw is Plastered with PLA, as in the picture and in the same picture the star is stuck with PLA behind it. I started this thread off by asking why my Heater should have to go up to 195 instead of where I usually print 175 and why my print seems not to be closing as in the fist picture, i suspect it was because it started to leak fairly soon and it was under extruding 95% being extruded 5% leakage the heater being covered in PLA and was having to work harder the leak was not noticeable as the fan shroud covered it until it was to late. A learning curve for me I will replace the Block and the pt100 and put this down to experience????

Hi I really like lay burns check out my Nylon version

Anders Thank you for you input The ring is that the faint outline around the nozzle insert point.? Or is it the star. Around the 3mm hole (Philips screw) the pt100 is stuck solid the only way to get it out is to destroy it I suspect. Thank you for your feedback. Bob

ok got it all apart to clean / replace Heter probe came out with some heat and is covered with PLA is that normal, my only problem is the pt100 can't move it at all it is solid I can see some PLA on the top of it. Amy suggestions on how to move it. ultiarjan how does that effect the leaking internally from the Olson Block I can easily put the spring back in, just want to understand the processes going on? any help/advise greatly appreciated

just fed some more material through before I strip it and the leakage is definitely coming from behind the Philips screw.

Wow I really like that, Formlabs have their new for +2 out which I took a look at, in the TCT show last week I think you would get some pretty cool results with that machine, not sue about the longevity of the print as it reacts to light, although if your going to paint it that would help. what stopped me from jumping in that direction is the support for the printer in the UK which is none existent and they were not that helpful at the show. Love your work.

Thanks for all your advise I had a test print going yesterday and it was pretty awful I then noticed this I thought it was my fault I tightened the nozzle while it was cold and thought the leakage was coming from the nozzle insertion point I striped and cleaned the unit and re installed a new nozzle I made sure the the nozzle was tight at 200d I fed some material through approximately 200mm worth and this is what I found I take it that its leaking some how from the temp probe or possibly throughout the screw fixing I know its not good. will order a new one and try again the learning curve is steep.

I printed iRoberts design it is one of the best things I did. I have the original lying around if you want it

Attended the show in Birmingham TCT show where Ultimaker attended allot of interesting machines there and Dual Extruders, working. One machine cought my eye which used Ball Screws for the Z axis would this be a benefit for the UM2 I always thought it would have saved on cleaning the threads and greasing.

Thanks for the replies yes the heater is fully located it was a tight fit and went all the way in id hate to get it out. The pt100 I take it is the temp sensor which I also replaced from sword how would you test it. My set up is Thanks for the reply

Any help Appreciated Got the Olson Block Running with PLA, I used the heater from Swordriff first thing had to increase temp to 195 I used to print at 175 with no problems, but can't seem to get the print to close the top layer or bottom layer are open like tissue paper. Nozzle size 0.40 layer height 0.20[media=6365][/media] I installed an iRobert Feeder while I had the printer stripped. any help appreciated

If you get them made in metal how would this effect the Olson Block I thought I saw something about the std shroud drawing heat away from the heater block. I'd also open up the hole for the nozzle a bit more The hex wrench wouldn't fit through the hole I reamed it out, we are only talking about 1mm on the Diameter. I'd would also be interested in trying a metal version if ordering multiples would be cheaper I thought of having one sintered

Yes thought the same but not sure if Layburn was trying to stabilise the temperature. Sure gonna find out though. But I think it will still be better than the stock shroud.

Had to strip My UM2 as it was needing a clean and servicing so I decided to install Olson Block with new Temp Sensor and 35w Heater Ptfe Coupler ect. all purchased through http://3dsolex.com. It takes me some time todo anything and preparation is my Key I downloaded Layburns Fan Shroud months ago and had it printed in Nylon. I also took the precaution of lining it with Kapton Tape. I am also installing iRoberts Feeder with some parts made on Lather, this is being done now while the printer is on its back so to speak. Mofified the Adjusting screw for the levelling of printer bed aswell. As you can see I also installed a Korneel Spacer which I modified to take into account I'm Using I2k Spacer from 3dSolex. will post more pics when finished that section I hope my machine will be Happy when finished.

Hi All I know this is off topic but I suspect there are people hear who might be willing to help me with a Project. I am building a Devise for the Disabled (none for Profit) which uses a Pic Micro-controller 12F683. Controlling a 12v DC motor. I need some help with the programming side and the electronic circuit, I have somethings in place but it needs tweaking, is there anyone out hear that would be willing to Help. If so let me know and we could PM. sorry to the community for putting a bit of a bizarre message up. But I think this is exactly where I would find the talent and skills needed. Thanks Bob

Labern its a shame you have given up at moment your cooling shroud is just the job Have fitted it to the Olson Block Im expecting great things. The forum Is defenitley not eh same place as it used to be and with no e-mail its not good.

Gr5 Thanks for the reply very interesting I will look into your suggestion. Again thanks

I purchased some Nozzle to use on Olson Block from 3dSolex. They are Brass and Steel they both have different profile heights, the question is I use simplify 3d and in that programme their is gcode offsets, I was wondering if it is the same type of system as in Milling software whe I input a z offset for different Tool Heights? In the Print software say I select nozzle 1 and give it a height z offset which I think is in the region of 1.5mm. Any help advise appreciated